Cheap Rosés for Breast Cancer - A Guest Blog from Joe’s Wife

I am honoured that Joe has allowed me a guest-blog spot, albeit to describe wines in which he has very little interest. My topic is the cheap rosé wines available in grocery stores and depanneurs (Quebecoise for “corner-stores”) throughout Quebec.

Many wine gourmands may disagree, but I believe that rosé wines have their place - I find a well-chilled rosé particularly refreshing on a hot summer day, either on its own or while enjoying a plate of barbequed chicken or shrimp.

What caught my eye in the grocery store last week was a series of cheap, depanneur rosés marked with the pink ribbon synonymous with breast cancer awareness. On closer examination, I discovered that Vincor Quebec, the largest distributor of wines in Quebec, is donating money to the Quebec Breast Cancer Foundation for every bottle of rosé with a pink petal purchased. A detailed search of Vincor Quebec’s website as well as the Quebec Breast Cancer Foundation failed to uncover exactly how much will be donated per bottle purchased, however Vincor has pledged to raise $150,000 in 2009.

So, with thoughts of Joe’s mother who died of breast cancer, and my grandmother and cousin who where/are breast cancer survivors, I decided to drink some pink petal rosés and write a 2-part guest-blog piece reviewing these wines.

I randomly – and by randomly I mean that I picked based on the name and graphics displayed on the label - picked 3 rosés to taste from the Metro grocery store. All were between $10 and $12 per bottle. (Interestingly none of the cheap pink petal rosés indicate the vintage year.)

Caletta Vineyards Seleccion Espania: Of the three wines, this one had a more complex nose that was sweet, smelling of plum, cherry coughdrops, and roses. It was pleasantly sweet on the palate, with a hint of cherries. Not unexpected from a cheap rosé, it had very little length. However, it was very drinkable and matched well a dinner of barbequed chicken.
cork: 12% alcohol

Elle Rosé de France: Admittedly, I had been staring at the picture of the women’s eyes on this bottle for weeks, wanting to buy it. Like the Mona Lisa, they seemed to follow me wherever I went. However, the actual wine was not as intriguing as the image. On the nose, this wine was citrussy, reminding me of grapefruit, and slightly minty. Upon tasting, it was crisp, dry and acidic. It was easy-drinking on a warm evening, but not overly exciting.
Cork: 12% alcohol

Champs Elysées Paris, Rosé de France: This wine smelled of lemons and raspberries. Initially, I enjoyed the fresh, citrusy taste, however it left a slight bitter after taste on the back of my tongue afterward.
Cork: 12% alcohol

*Disclaimer: Prior to each tasting, I popped a pre-emptive antacid to prevent heartburn, which I believe added to my enjoyment of the wines. In addition, all rosés were well-chilled and were tasted with food.

(Editorial. With my good buddy Lloyd shirking his official guest blogger duties I have been reduced to pink charity wine! Seriously, my wife has a tremendous palate and has always been welcome to guest-blog - I didn't think she knew I had a website. The antacid aperitif is real, and more effective than the H2-chaser.)

Cheap Portugal: 2006 Meia Encosta

Exploring the world's obscure grapes has resulted in some positive surprises, with Portuguese wines amongst the pleasantest surprises. Working with a unique slate of grapes this legendary producer of sticky reds is fashioning some great dry, red wines. From cheapo to mid-priced to high-end I have been very impressed, so a recommendation from the local SAQ was all I needed to take home this $10 wine.

The cherry red 2006 Meia Encosta (Dão) showed a nice nose of smokey bacon fat, pencil shavings, raspberry, and new leather. Simply textured, with crisp, juicy berry fruit, good structure and a short, smokey finish, it won't win any tastings but could be the king of mid-week wines.
Cork. 12% alcohol
Score: 15/20
Cost: C$10.45 (SAQ)

Another Under $12: 2007 Robertson Chenin Blanc

No snow in Montreal - this note appears from the "lost files" - my reflections on table wine mentioned this Chenin Blanc, I finally found the notes.

2007 Robertson Chenin Blanc: a simply appealing nose of green apple, lime and some grapefruit as it warmed and opened up. Soft, yet fresh and minerally, wet stones rolling across the tongue, then fading quickly. Surprisingly interesting. Says Chenin Blanc on the label but I could swear that there is some Sauvignon Blanc in there. My style, a great buy at this price.
cork. 11.5% alcohol
Score: 15/20
Price: C$9.85 (SAQ)

Twelve under $12: 2006 Moulin de Gassac "Terrasses de Guilhem"

Those of you who recall my earlier post have probably come to realize that my journey through $12 wine is not so much a hunt for value as it is a learning experience - my exploration of the current state of "vin de table", wines I so rarely drink. So for the twelfth and final wine in my wallet-sparing "Twelve Under $12" series I sought a French expression of country wine.

The 2006 Moulin de Gassac "Terrasses de Guilhem" comes from the Vins de pays de l'Hérault appellation, a first for me. The lable promised me "Un Vin Comme Autrefois", and the marketers couldn't have been more correct. Very rustic on the nose, with notes of roast coffee, cheese, and a metallic undertone. Rustic on the palate as well, it was one of those rare red wines (especially from the south of France) that led with acid, not tannin. Thin and dilute at first with no detectable tannins, I nearly dismissed it. But it was so nicely structured, framed by ample acidity and crisp fruit (blinded I might even have picked it as a white), and slowly revealed layer after layer of new notes and flavours...it was very intellectually stimulating for me, a rarity at this price point. Be warned - if you love New World wines and hate French-styled wine, run - very quickly - away from this wine, you will not like it. (My wife absolutely hated it) But for those seeking a light, structured and interesting glass of wine to pair with a lunchtime steak frites, this is a great, cheap pour - an alternative to a red Chinon, perhaps? Even if you don't like this style of wine, pour a glass (it should be slightly chilled, say 14-16 Celsius) and take some notes. No other wine from my journey into cheap wine captures the essence of vin de table and a sense of place and intrigue. But it is not for everyone.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 14.5/20
Price: $10.65 (SAQ)

PS - this is an entry level wine from Mas de Daumas Gassac, whose owner Aimé Guibert is famous for his appearance in Mondovino.

Twelve Under $12: Bistro Mundo Espagne

Trolling the bargain bins for $12 wine, it was only a matter of time before I grabbed a box wine. Actually, I had no intention of tasting a box wine, but a reader of mine, Fadi, recommended this cheap Spanish pour. The non-vintage Bistro Mundo Espagne is made from tempranillo, and featured dark berry fruit, vanilla, and some oaky spiciness on the nose. On the palate this New World-styled wine was juicy and balanced, featuring a nice (and surprising) presence of tannins and some finish, but very little acidity. A tad artificial, but with no rough edges it was surprisingly nice. Keep a box in the fridge for cooking, and feel free to grab a sip when you are not up to opening a bottle. And with a lower carbon footprint than bottled wine, you can feel good about saving the planet.
1L box. 13% alcohol
Score: 13.5/20
Price: ~C$11

Note: Bistro Mundo is a series of Tetra Pak box wines sold at grocery stores in Quebec, featuring red and white wines from France, Argentina, Italy, and Spain. The boxes look very similar, so make sure you read the label before throwing it into the cart. It is also important to note that not every box is the same - this is non-vintage, so I have no idea if I buy a box in six months if it will taste the same - I have not always had the same experience with this one.

So far I have been amazed by my tasting group's silence. When I started on this $12 adventure I expected a deluge of ridicule from this gang of wine snobs - perhaps the shock has yet to wear off? Surely a BOX WINE will elicit a few emails from the gang...

Twelve Under $12: 2006 Domaine de Tariquet Ugni-blanc Colombard

For my tenth installment in my Twelve Under $12 series I couldn't ignore the cheap and delicious whites from France's VdP Cotes de Gascogne appellation. Marcus, Neil and I have all sung the praises of the whites from France's VdP Cotes de Gascogne, as have many others. Wandering through the cheapies on my last trip to the SAQ I found a producer I had not tasted before. This 2006 Domaine de Tariquet is made from the ugni blanc and colombard grapes. A tropical bouquet of melon, mango and lemon rind...did I smell coconut? Despite the tropical theme it was crisp and focused, yet quite flavourful at the same time. Another hit, it remained remarkably good over a few nights.
cork. 10.5% alcohol
Score: 15/20
Price: C$11.40 (SAQ)

PS - Dr. Vino reviews the wines of Domaine de Tariquet here...

Twelve Under $12: 2006 Chevalier de Dyonis Pinot Noir

This Romanian overacheiver was first tasted by Joe while on vacation in Malbaie at a little fondue restaurant called Le Passe-Temps. Despite my initial scepticism, I recall the owner enthusiastically recommending this wine, and at $16 (with resto markup) I thought it would be an inexpensive way to try my first Romanian wine. A great, cheap pour, I thought it would fit nicely into my Twelve Under $12 lineup.

The 2006 Chevalier de Dyonis Pinot Noir comes from Romania, but I think it is a special cuvee for a Montreal importer. A pretty cherry red in the glass, a meaty barnyard nose dominates, with some oaky/raspberry notes in the background. Juicy, with good structure and some persistency from faint (but pleasant) tannins. Considering how very hard it is to find palatable pinot under $30, much less $10, this wine deserves heaps of praise. A good pair with honey mustard chicken.
cork. 12% alcohol
Score: 15/20
Price: C$9.60 (SAQ)

Twelve Under $12: 2006 Peron Torrontes

In the past I have found Argentinian white wines made from the torrontes grape to be a great, cheap pour. Unfortunately, I am finding price inflation over the course of my Under $12 quest, as some previously enjoyed $12 pours have crept up over my arbitrary resistance point. One example is the Etchart torrontes, which now goes for the princely sum of C$13.15. In desperation I grabbed the only torrontes available that day, the 2006 Peron Torrontes. White gold, with classic floral and melon notes, some lavender as well. Fresh and simple on the palate, with appley green melon, but virtually no acidity or persistency. Not bad, but very simple, I would probably blow the wad and get the Etchart.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 12/20
Price: C$10.80 (SAQ)

Twelve Under $12: L.A. Cetto Cabernet Sauvignon

Diving blindly into the bargain bin for my Twelve Under $12 series I suppose it was inevitable that I would find a disappointing pour. L.A. Cetto surprised me with a nice Petite Sirah a few weeks back so I decided to try their Cabernet. The 2005 L.A. Cetto Cabernet Sauvignon was a pale cherry red with an interesting nose - chocolatey, jammy fruit, smokey salami, with a pleasant, rustic earthiness - but on the palate the hot, chalky texture delivered a big dose of overripe fruit and little else. Rather flat and uninspiring with unusual flavours, a much weaker effort than the Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon at this price point. To be fair, it tasted better the next day, but only a bit.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 12/20
Price: C$11.80

Twelve Under $12: 2005 Marques de Marialva Reservera Tinto

A common theme for my Twelve under $12 has been a return to the familiar - random acts of wine buying result in too many bad surprises, so my fear is heightened in the $12 aisle. Tonight's selection follows a familiar path, as I have enjoyed a prior vintage at the recommendation of Malcolm Anderson, the former wine writer for The Gazette.

The red 2005 Marquês de Marialva Reserva comes from Portugal's Bairrada appellation. Light cherry red in the glass, an unexpectedly terrific nose of spicy oak and vanilla, black earth and truffles leapt out of the glass. Simple, crisp and light bodied on the palate with decent fruit - a "Bojo meets Rioja" treat. Probably the best wine I have ever tasted at this price point, and a wine that should pair easily with lighter or heavier meat dishes.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 15.5/20
Price: $10.95 (SAQ)

To quote my wife: "These have been really decent wines this week and there is no point in spending more on everyday wines." 'Nuff said

Twelve Under $12: 2006 Carmen Chardonnay

For my "Twelve Under $12" series I once again turned to an old favourite, a 2006 Carmen Chardonnay, and I was not disappointed. Pale gold with notes of lemon, petrol, fresh cut grass and almond extract. Fresh, green, and juicy on the palate, minerally with really nice balance, a terrific example of this varietal. My second $12 success with this winery, it is hard not to like at this price. (typically cheaper elsewhere)
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 14.5/20
Price: C$11.85 (SAQ)

Next up, a gem from Portugal, a disappointment from Mexico, cheap Torrontes and even a Romanian wine...

Twelve Under $12: Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon

Our fourth installment in my "Under $12" series led me to Chile in search of discount Cabernet Sauvignon. Sitting next to the Carmen Chardonnay that I have praised in the past, I thought I'd use that positive experience to lead me to a cheapo New World Cab.

Ruby red in the glass, the 2005 Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon was all wet gravelly and earthy on the nose, some blackberry, and nice green peppery notes with very little oak. Definitely not an oaky/jammy New World cab on the palate, it showed good acidity, coarse tannins and subdued fruit. A short finish, and a bit rough around the edges, but a maybe just a step above the average Vin de Table - nicely done.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 14.5/20
Price: C$11.60 (SAQ)

Twelve Under $12: Codorniu Clasico Brut Cava

I don't deserve to be married working late on Valentine's Day and opening a $12 bottle of bubbly, but the bubbly was good enough to win back her love.

Returning to familiar territory with the Codorniu Clasico Brut (NV), I was impressed once again by this cheap Cava - pale gold with a decent mousse and attractive notes of toasty bread, white flowers, pears, and earthy tropical fruit - a prelude to its crisp, creamy mouthfeel, and smokey-apple flavours. Yes, you can have "champagne-like" flavour every day - bravo!
cork. 11.5% alcohol
Score: 15.5/20
Price: C$12.35 (SAQ)

WBW #42: Just 7 Words, A Wine Haiku

Seeking a challenge beyond the mandatory seven word wine review, I decided that my WBW #42 review should be in Haiku form. My apologies to Haiku enthusiasts everywhere...

Acidic palate
Vegetal cappuccino
A cabernet franc?

Wine: 2006 Podere Castorani Majolica Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 14/20
Price: C$12.35 (SAQ)

Close enough to $12, I call this Twelve under $12 #2.

Many thanks to Andrew of Spitoon and the whole Wine Blogging Wednesday crew.

Twelve Under $12: 2006 Umani Ronchi Verdicchio

For fun, and to learn, it's "Twelve under $12" for the next few weeks. Yep, that's right, Joe is going to one up that "big spender" Dr. Debs and hopefully find a good cheapie or two (or at least some decent cooking wine). Since finding Joe in the 12$ wine aisle is about as likely as finding Joe at a yard sale I really have no idea what I am getting into...

So, why $12? Given the taxes on booze in Montreal I figure this equates to ~US$10-ish everywhere else, which presents a good "Vin de Table" price point and will appeal to those starting to move beyond box wine.

I live by the rule that if someone is offering you a choice of 'white' or 'red', pick the white - at least it will be cold and refreshing. So I begin my foray into the unknown with a neat little white, the 2006 Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico. Some faint citrus (orange marmalade) and floral notes from a thin, light-bodied white. Tasty, refreshing, with no rough edges, it falls off the palate so quickly you forget that you just gulped a glass. Chill for a great summer patio quaffer. An honest white that begs the question: "why would anyone buy a 20$ pinot grigio?"
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 13.5/20
Price: C$11.55 (SAQ)

Next up, a cheapo Italian red for WBW. Cheers!

2004 Chateau de Nages Reserve (White)

I have had great success with the Chateau de Nages red wine (especially the Cuvee Joseph Torres - excellent value), so I thought I would get a few bottles of their white. An intriguing blend of Rousanne and Marsanne, it was even on sale - just C$12.21.

I thought the 2004 Chateau de Nages Reserve (Blanc)  would be a nice smooth sipper before dinner, but I was wrong - this would be an excellent wine for pairing with a meal. Nice lemon and toast scents, very minerally. Crisp and minerally with excellent balance, this would be a terrific match for a oysters or a simply prepared white fish. Highly recommended!
cork. 13.5% alcohol.
Score 14.5/20

2004 Campobarro Tempranillo

The 2004 Campobarro Tempranillo (Who?) is from the Ribera del Guadiana (Where?) region of Spain. Cost? C$9.15 Those who know me must certainly think I've gone crazy!

This was not a random act of penny-pinching. The Gazette guy gave it 'four stars', so I thought "What the heck? I can always cook with it". Not bad - nice gamey scents on the nose, good balance, nice fruit. No length, but hey - this is Vin de Table! It will probably sell out at that price, given the local media star's rating, but an excellent idea for a 'big event' wine. You know, where Uncle Bill from Moose Jaw will probably mix vodka into it anyway, and you still want to enjoy something reasonable.