Revisiting Chateauneuf du Pape

Our tasting group has not dedicated an evening to Chateuneuf du Pape since...April of 2005? You might think we hate the stuff! Yet most of the group has a decent collection of these...sounds like a Grand Tasting!

Once again, a colossal flight of wines, blinded and rank ordered by our capable panel of tasters:

Clearly the oldest, and nearly unanimously rated number one, was Lloyd's 1990 Château de Beaucastel. Surprising, as this wine almost didn't make it into the tasting lineup - Lloyd's first bottle was corked and this second bottle had a funky nose that was only starting to blow off as we went into the tasting - very fortunate. This perfectly aged CDP makes my short list of "best ever" wines - sour cherries meet pencil shavings on the nose, blanketed in roses and blackberries, some truffles, leather and tea...even figs in a supporting role. Incredibly polished, flavourful, and complex - silky smooth tannins deliver crisp fruit to the palate and directly into the cerebrum....so, so, good. Score: 19/20

Second, third and fourth place were very close, but Cam's 2004 Domaine du Pégau Cuvée Réservée edged out the rest with a nose of cooked fruit and grenadine, dried meat and some interesting mustiness. Very dry, with big, gripping tannins, it was a touch unbalanced at first taste but it had such a tremendous finish that sufficiently sorted itself out by the end of the night. Score: 18+/20

Third was the 2003 Domaine de St-Paul, continuing Ash's string of strong showings. Not a house I knew before tonight, it was showing its age - musty cooked fruit, mushrooms and old leather on the nose...balanced and tasty, just a bit old and flat on the palate. Past its prime, probably better in its past? Score: 17.5/20

Fourth place went to the "other" Beaucastel, Pramod's 1995 Château de Beaucastel. Pramod was disappointed with the showing, but it was "controversial" wine, with a bunch of high ratings pulled down by two last place ratings. Tarry cherries and liquorice on the nose, a powerful wine of tremendous length on the palate, dry velvety tannins, crisp fruit and spicy oak. This house is restoring my faith in CDP. Score: 18.5/20

In fifth was Cosme's 2005 Domaine de la Janasse Chaupin, another controversial wine with high and low rankings. Notably younger and fruitier on the nose, with ripe cherries and vanilla in the foreground, a hint of violets as well. Silky smooth, nicely balanced with dense velvety tannins, a great wine but stylistically away from where my palate is these days. Score: 17.5/20

Sixth place was a three way tie between my 2001 Domaine du Pégau Cuvée Réservée, Lloyd's backup wine, the 2001 Usseglio Cuvée de mon Aïeul and Chris' 2006 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne. My older Pegau smelled old, with compote, tar and almonds on the nose, fruity and well balanced on the palate but needs some more time in the cellar Score: 17/20. The Usseglio was just .... bland? Leather, fruit and vanilla on the nose, fruity with modest tannins Score: 16.5/20. Chris' Vieille Julienne was violets and venison on the nose, heavy fruit up front, this gave way to a better wine than that I first encountered. A very long finish, drinking well now Score: 17/20.

So...Beaucastel was not a house I had tasted frequently (maybe never?), yet two different vintages scored first and second for me. And that 1990 Beaucastel ranks with the best wines I have ever tasted (thanks Lloyd!)...I smell a shopping trip.

Many thanks to our host, Cosme, and to the gang for raiding their cellars for these treasures.

Cheers!

Mini Vertical #11: Vieux Telegraphes

It is interesting to see what a few years in the cellar can do for a wine. Two years ago I was not highly complimentary of the 1998 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe "La Crau", yet time has done wonders for this bottle (tasted blind vs. its younger sibling, below). Starker, crisper, with scents of damp campfire embers, old leather, old cherries...spicy and cheesy, wet stones also compliment this gorgeous nose. On the palate it seemed older, more distinguished, focused, with soft velvety tannins, good acidity and a deceptively long finish. Nicely done.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$67 (SAQ)

Despite being three years younger, the 2001 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe "La Crau" showed more "bricking" at the edges, which mistakenly led me to believe this was the older bottle. More prunes and cooked fruit on the nose as well - perhaps this bottle was not as well treated as the '98 above? Beautiful aromas of wild flowers and meaty truffles, definitely the fruitier, jammier wine. Soft and oily at first, but a monster tannic presence and a long finish. Much hotter and less balanced, the three of us just didn't like it as much as the '98 above.
cork. 14.8% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$59 (SAQ)

2003 Grand Veneur and Grand Veneur

One of my favourite blind tastings is to compare a winery's regular bottling to their top cuvée, so tonight I uncorked two '03 Châteauneuf-du-Papes from Domaine Grand Veneur.

The 2003 Domaine Grand Veneur "Les Origines" was rather typical CDP on the nose - violet, pepper and blackberries, some eucalyptus and leathery cooked fruit as well. But it was the palate that showed its heftier price - more depth, complexity and a lengthier finish than the regular bottling below, with crisp earthy cherries and a silky, luxurious, mouthfeel. A touch hot, but nicely done.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$57 (SAQ)

The regular 2003 Domaine Grand Veneur was no slouch, even a touch more complex on the nose - the same violet, pepper and blackberries, but with prunes, wet stones, black liquorice and cloves. Clunkier on the palate - jammy, velvety, and thinner - both in the glass and on the palate. Not as polished as its pricier sibling, but the difference was oh, so small...(and with $20+ separating these two, this remains one of my Top Cellar Picks)
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$35 (SAQ)

1998 Vieux Telegraphe "La Crau", My Valentine

I first started building my cellar and collecting wine in 2003, and the 1998 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe "La Crau" was one of my earliest purchases. Acquired in September '04 for one of our group tastings, I never used it, and so it sat patiently in the dark of my cellar, waiting for my affection. For Valentine's Day, my other sweetie prepared some lamb chops with mushrooms and herbs, and Chateauneuf du Pape seemed just the thing to pair with this on a blustery Valentine's eve.

According to the maker, this wine is 65% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre, 15% Syrah, with the balance Cinsault and others. Ruby red, the wine was beginning to show some age with some brick red at the rim. Still cool from the cellar, the first nose was that of field flowers and strawberries. As it warmed up to room temperature there were strong earthy, minty, and vegetal aromas, as well as some truffles, smoke and nutty scents. Very promising. On the palate it was very dry, and despite the wine's age it was still showing big tannins. Strawberries and chocolate, it was a nice Valentine's treat. A very long finish with good fruit, tannins and acidity, I am sure this wine still has a few more years to go. However, the alcohol was very noticeable, throwing the wine off balance, and I don't believe extra bottle time will help with that. A perfect match for the food and the event. I have to disagree with Parker's assessment (93).
14% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: At $67, it was a great wine, but not a great value. Try the Grand Veneur or Vieux Lazaret, at much lower prices.

2001 Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee

This Chateauneuf du Pape comes from an estate that is well regarded by the critics, but prices remain reasonable. While the 1999 did not place very well at one of our tastings, this 2001 Pegau was VERY different. After a 90min decant, a beautiful garnet red and very aromatic on the nose. Aromas of white flowers, blackcurrant, white cherries, cedar, woodsy/mushroom, musk, leather, cloves, pepper, smoke, tobacco, and caramel. Spicy above all, stunning. On the palate it was just as nice - medium to full bodied, rich, harmonious, lovely fruit and tannins. Deceptively ready now, it will get better. It was a nice match for our lamb stew, but I would have this wine for a meal. Spectacular, a great wine now, and will get better. Score: 19/20, cost C$54.

Chateauneuf du Pape Tasting - April 2005

This tasting, our second CdP tasting, spanned four different vintages and included an Aussie surprise. Once again, the overall quality level was high, and the wines were wonderful. Here are the results:

First: 2000 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret, Cuvée Exceptionelle
The Vieux Lazaret was the closest thing to a unanimous rating that night – five first place and two second place rankings. This was not the most expensive – this cost me C$43.25 when I bought it in September of last year – so a clear ‘value winner’ as well. Interesting to note that this was my ‘second’ wine – a wine that I stuck in at the last minute because we needed a fifth bottle. Surprise, surprise! My notes suggest that this wine will continue to improve. (RP 91)

Second: 2001 E. Guigal CdP
A solid second place despite no first place finishes. A very narrow dispersion: two second place, four third place and one fourth place ranking. Clearly everyone liked it, but it lacked that ‘something’ that would put it into first (or fifth). My notes were pretty non-descript. A reliable crowd pleaser, perhaps? Good choice Cam! Not cheap, this was the second most expensive at C$58. (RP 92)

Third (tie):
1999 Domaine du Pegau Cuvée Reservé
1998 Clarendon Hills Grenache Clarendon Vineyard
The two oldest wines we tasted: my 1999 Domaine du Pegau Cuvée Reservé and Lloyd’s Aussie surprise, a 1998 Clarendon Hills Grenache Clarendon Vineyard.

Both had a wide dispersion of rankings – with ratings from first to fifth place, but the Pegau seeming to be more polarizing. According to my notes, this had wonderful aromas that weren’t backed up by the taste. This wine definitely required more time in the bottle – interesting as this was a 1999. This was my pride and joy – a sure fire winner, I thought. Sigh. Cost C$43.65 in October 2003. (RP 92)

The Clarendon also claimed a wide range of rankings. Note to Lloyd – you ranked it fourth! I was the lone dissenter on this one – I raved about it and gave it my highest ranking. According to my notes, what this lacked in aromatics it made up for in taste. I predict this will improve. Hooray! I have two bottles in my cellar. Lloyd claims C$40. (RP 93)

Fifth: 2000 Chateau de la Nerthe
The de la Nerthe was pretty consistent – four fifth place and two fourth place rankings. Don’t worry Pramod, Sofia ranked it second (must be love)! As Lloyd noted, he has had this before and really enjoyed it. Not a bad wine, but tough to compete with this stellar crowd. My only gripe with this wine was the price - this was the most expensive…(C$61) (RP 89)

Editorial:
Two CdP tastings, and both times the most expensive did NOT win. There are values to be had...

Chateauneuf du Pape - September 2004

I took over our first CdP tasting, choosing all four wines. While my friends would say it was because I'm an obsessive wine geek, I really had two objectives: (1) to save some time for the less vinously endowed (i.e. cellar-less) individuals in the group, and (2) to compare wines from the same vintage (i.e. to let the producer, rather than the vintage, show through).

These were from the 1999 CdP vintage - a good vintage sandwiched between the 'extraordinary' 1998 and 2000 CdP vintages. The wines were terrific - here are the notes:

First Place: 1999 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe 'La Crau'
This was everyone else's favourite by a wide margin. I was the lone dissenter on this wine - while my scores for the four wines were close, this was my least favourite. I described the nose as very smooth, with hints of berries, flowers and nuts. The taste was tannic and uncomplex, with a medium body and medium lenghth. To sum it up: "Easy, tannic, but nothing special". 'Nuff said. However, I would be remiss if I did not tell you this was the relative bargain - at C$39 it was the second cheapest CdP of the night. (RP-88)

Second Place: 1999 Mas de Boislauzon
I seem to be going in reverse order vs. my peers! This was my 2nd least favourite. I described the nose as bold, smooth, with blueberries and chocolate. The taste was elegant but uncomplex, with a medium body and medium to long finish. From my notes: "Very enjoyable, but not very special". This was another relative bargain at C$34 - the cheapest of the night. (RP-88)

Third Place: 1999 Bosquet des Papes "Cuvee Chantemerle"
Now to the good stuff! This was my favourite. I described the nose as "oakier", with scents of apples, leather and mushrooms. On the palate the wine was "very well balanced", with a medium body and medium to long finish. Yum. This was pricey - C$65. (RP-91)

Fourth Place: 1999 Chateau de la Gardine "Cuvee des Generations"
This cost an arm and a leg, and was supposed to be my 'ringer'. My peers were less positive on this wine, but it was my 2nd favourite. A very complex and "earthy" nose, with scents of blueberries, currants, vanilla, caramel and licorice. It was a bit disappointing on the palate (after that wonderful nose!) - I found the wine to be 'hot' (i.e. high, obtrusive alcohol), oaky, and a little less balanced (than the others) . Full bodied, with a long finish. A great wine, but not a great find at this price - C$94. (RP 90-93)

Comments:

You get what you pay for? While I gravitated to the more expensive wines, the ratings as a whole did not follow price. This concurs with other CdPs tastings - great CdP can be had for reasonable prices.