2005 Chateau Tour des Termes

On the nose are smokey ripe blackberries and violets, flint, cedar and a hint of anise. Ample fruit, but the fruit doesn't dominate the palate, as the young, grainy tannins and nice minerality keep everything in balance and hold it together. Decent length, and still firm after a few hours in the decanter - good for a few more years in the cellar, but probably not dramatically longer. A gift from my buddy Guy, perfect with a grilled flank steak.
AOC Saint-Estèphe, 60% Merlot/40% Cab Sauv

Cork. 13.5% alcohol.
Score: 17/20
Price: gift

2003 Chateau D'Armailhac

This was another treasure from my 2003 Bordeaux futures order. For a wine of this pedigree, a Fifth Growth from the Rothschild empire, I would normally have waited a few more years, but this particular bottle had a cork pressing against the foil so I was worried about leaving this one for a long period of time. Besides, most of my 2003 tastings have indicated this is a vintage that is now hitting its stride.

The 2003 Chateau D'Armailhac (Pauillac) showed its pedigree with a gorgeous nose - spicy, damp black earth and green ferns, liquorice, hazelnuts and wet coffee grounds, blackberries and very, very violet...subtle, but incredibly complex. Light, fresh, and a touch bitter on the palate with suprisingly green tannins for this vintage. A nice long finish envelops the tongue in a velvety carpet of cherry tannins and nice, subtle fruit. A touch unbalanced at first taste, but opening nicely over evening - should age well, I'll try again in 2-3 years.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$54 (LCBO)

2003 in Bordeaux: du Tertre and Lagrange

My last post featured wines from the uncelebrated, but uncontroversial, 1999 vintage. Tonight we go to the left bank to taste some wines from the more controversial 2003 vintage. According to Stephen Brook's excellent "The Complete Bordeaux", 2003 was "...a year of extremes." Extreme heat led to early veraison, early picking, and yields were low. Generally speaking, the red wines of this vintage are supposed to tend towards more fruit, higher alcohol and lower in acidity, leading to significantly divergent takes on the vintage by different critics. From my tastings of '03, this vintage was not dramatically fruity, but I do find the acidity low and the aging potential seems more limited vs. other vintages. On the plus side, the '03s tend to be approachable in their youth - drink these while your 2000s are sleeping away in the cellar.

The 2003 Chateau Lagrange (St-Julien) showed substantially more dark berry fruit (very, very black curranty) on the nose, slate and nuts in support. Smooth, elegant, with soft, ample, tannins and a nice long finish, but a touch of that summer heat coming through.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$55 (LCBO)

For the 2003 Chateau du Tertre (Margaux) a nose of dark, burnt wood, wet stones, pepper and fresh vanilla beans introduced a palate of crisp cherry fruit and bitter green (in a good way) held firm by stoney minerality - better structured, with a lengthy finish, this Margaux needs some cellar time to come together and will probably be the better of the two.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$49 (LCBO)

1999 in Bordeaux: a Pessac Leognan and a St-Emilion

When I first started collecting the wines of Bordeaux I lived for the vintage reports. The problem is that vintage reports are an overall, or "average", view of mother nature's gifts over a broad geography. When you use these reports for a large region like Bordeaux, you are bound to pick up few clunkers in a great vintage and a few gems in an "off" vintage - vintage reports are pretty good guide, but you can never be to sure.

For example, tonight's two wines were excellent, despite coming from a difficult 1999 vintage that was not notable for late season rains and rot that apparently plagued many producers.

Tasted here before (1,2), the 1999 Chateau Carbonnieux (Pessac Leognan) served up musty, woodsy, black cherries, later rewarding us with some basil, thyme and pencil shavings. Blinded I was thinking it was the St-Emilion - soft and velvety smooth...its elegance nearly masking an enduring finish of wet, black earth. Deliciously Bordeaux.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$65 (SAQ)

On my right was another repeat, the 1999 Moulin St-Georges (St-Emilion). A glassful of toasty new oak, old leather and black cherries to sniff, a chameleon as it shifted and changed over the evening. Spicy, crisp blackberries on the palate over substantial tannins, which presented this offering as a touch more awkward. Greater presence and complexity, but a touch rougher around the edges - in a very good way.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$65 (LCBO)

2003 Vray Croix de Gay

It is a rare evening when I pull two 18+ point wines from my cellar (also enjoyed this evening), but with two members of my wine group coming by for a drink I had to dig deep, and Pomerol is deep ($$$, that is). The pricing for Pomerol offerings is such that I have very few, so I was actually surprised to find this resting at the bottom of one of my Bordeaux bins.

The 2003 Chateau Vray Croix de Gay demonstrated exactly why Pomerols are so pricey, and further added to a suspicion that merlot is my new love...An absolutely gorgeous nose, brimming with rose petals and sandalwood, wild stawberries and damp forest, dark cocoa powder and leather, nuts (almonds) and plums...I could open another bottle just to smell this again. Fresh and well balanced on the palate, with a long, silky finish. A joy to drink, and a greater joy knowing I have two more bottles in my cellar.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$85 (LCBO futures)

Wines Good Enough for a 40-Year Old

Ok, so I left that post about turning forty on a bit long - so long that Barry is now accusing of milking this event. But what has really taken me so long is writing up so many notes on the various wines I drank to celebrate - thank God the festivities occur only once per decade...

For my birthday my wife secretly invited a group of friends out for dinner at Yoyo, and she even raided my cellar for an old Bordeaux (doesn't she know she's not allowed down there?). I cannot blame her, as she was only following the instructions of my good friend and occasional guest blogger Lloyd...

Actually, my 1994 Chateau Pontet-Canet (Pauillac) was already standing up in anticipation of this personal milestone, and did not disappoint. A big nose of mushrooms, green pepper and black earth ("Smells like the earth it was grown in", said my wife), minty and hints of creme brulee, later some fresh flowers (violet) and slate. Tremendous length and silky tannins, but with that crisp fruit and wonderfully fresh acid that modern Bordeaux seems to lack...some nuttiness and green olives at the end. Drinking very well after 3 hours in the glass, this could easily age for a few more years. Simply classic...
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 18.5/20

Ashkan has been on a streak lately, and his 2001 Condado de Haza Reserva Seleccion Roble Frances (Ribera del Duero) only added to his impressive wine CV. A delicious nose of cheese rind and blackberries, flint and flowers ... a palate of crisp, velvety tannins and a tremendously long finish ... a touch edgy, I wonder if some time in the cellar will sort this out?
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17.5+/20

Lloyd's 2001 Terra d'hom (Priorat) was pretty much what I expected from this region - gobs of ripe, dried raisiny fruit, black currants, and woodsy, smokey vanilla...surprisingly lighter bodied and better structured than the nose suggested - delicious velvety fruit, a great wine from a region I rarely have the opportunity to taste...
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20

The 2001 Elderton Command (Barossa) was the reason I ordered the lamb shank for a main course, and after 3 hours in the decanter it was ... mmm ... A brilliant nose of menthol and eucalyptus, cherry pits and wet stones, some classic violet notes ... ginger, flint, and smokey black cherry. Soft and silky on the palate, much more developed since my last taste...so smooth, so elegant, a very long finish of cherry fruit and unsweetened cocoa, but perhaps a bit more tired than I expected (1,2)...
cork. 15% alcohol
Score: 18/20

Thanks to my wife and friends - great food, great wine, great company ... no better way to spend my birthday... (unless it was the Brunello and Burgundy I had the next day)

2002 Chateau de Chambrun

The Lalande-de-Pomerol appellation is overshadowed by its more famous neighbour, Pomerol. Even Wikipedia has an empty page for the appellation, meriting a simple footnote in the Pomerol entry: "The next-door and slightly larger "satellite" appellation of Lalande-de-Pomerol produces similar but simpler wines, which are less long lived and more affordable."

While this may be true, the wines of Chateau de Chambrun are considered to be amongst the stars of this appellation, and are neither simple nor "affordable"...

Welcoming green tannins and cedary tobacco notes on the nose of the 2002 Château de Chambrun (Lalande-de-Pomerol), later releasing rose petal and bing cherry notes, some fresh earthy/flinty aromas, basil and vegetal notes as well. Nicely textured on the palate, but the firm tannins, fresh acidity and light fruit don't fully come together - a touch austere, maybe how Bordeaux used to be (or a reflection of the '02 vintage)...
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: ~C$77 (Opimian)

PS - first tasted here in the early days of Joe's Wine.

An Eclectic Flight of Wines and an Impromptu Tasting

My good friend Cosme suggested a Friday night get-together for a bottle of wine, but some frantic, last-minute, Blackberry Messenger exchanges led to a less intimate affair with about half of my wine group and four great bottles - a formal tasting without formality! How fun is that?

Last minute the gang scraped together a wonderfully eclectic set of wines:

1997 Drei Doná Tenuta la Palazza Graf Noir
2003 l'Ecole no. 41 Perigee
2003 Chateau Bernadotte
2006 Bouchard Pere et Fils Le Corton

I won't declare a "winner" tonight - my scores were nearly identical and these weren't really comparable, but here are some notes on a great evening of wine:

My 2003 l'Ecole no. 41 Perigee was first featured here in August of 2007 during American Wine Month. Definitely the softest, jammiest, wine of the evening, a wonderful nose of smokey currants, leather and violets, flinty cherries, cocoa and grenadine with some vegetal notes in the background. A big, heavy wine on the palate, earthy and minerally...definitely that ripe fruit I tasted 18 months ago, but a half point lower this time around. Score: 17.5/20

You can count on Lloyd to bring something aged and intriguing, so tonight's 1997 Drei Doná Tenuta la Palazza Graf Noir (55% Sangiovese, 30% Uva Longanesi, and Cabernet Franc) was par for the course. Musty on the nose, like the rind of brie cheese, it took a long time to open up but that patience was rewarded with some truffle-y mushroom, vegetal and floral notes. A joyous, velvety texture on the palate with great balance, a very long finish and decent acidity, but a bit too heavy with the oak for my taste. Blinded I thought aged Bordeaux at first, but with further development and some nudging from Lloyd I guessed Super Tuscan - who would have guessed "Super Emilia-Romagna"? Score: 17.5/20

And you can count on Cosme to bring a Burgundy. The nose of the 2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Le Corton Grand Cru was subtle, but the spicy (musk and cloves) and oaky notes dominate, some fresh rasberries, vanilla and leather supporting. Soft, smooth and luscious with good minerality, modest acidity and a decent finish - not as tightly wound as I like my Burgundies, but I suspect this would be a crowd pleaser. Hard to believe this is the same wine as the 2002 I raved about. My take? This is closed down and needs a few years in the cellar. Score: 17/20.

My apologies to Chris, but his 2003 Chateau Bernadotte arrived freezing cold out of the cellar so we set it aside for a while - by the time we got to it I was done taking notes! From memory it was reminiscent of my comments on the 2003 Vintage in Bordeaux - very drinkable today, with classic dense, woodsy tannins and ripe fruit.

It is really hard to compare and contrast such different wines, but what I can say is that the Graf Noir generated the most enthusiasm and conversation (how often do you drink Uva Longanesi?). I loved it, but I was a bit put off by the heavy oak (same for Le Corton). But these comments are secondary to the thrill of sharing some odd wines and wonderful companionship - sometimes the best tastings are unplanned and unstructured!

2003 Red Bordeaux: Croix-Mouton, Clarke and Pibran

There are obvious dangers in discussing a particular vintage for any wine region - a variety of micro-climates, differences in harvest conditions and even different points of view on harvesting make generalizing about a vintage hazardous. However, I have tasted a number of 2003 Clarets (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) over the past few years (2003 was my first, and biggest, year participating in the futures game) and I think I can make a few broad comments on the vintage.

While the 2003 Bordeaux reds were trumpeted by some writers at the time, it has become a controversial vintage. I have read some commentary saying that the wines don't have the structure for aging, while other writers were concerned that the wines are too hard and will take many years to sort themselves out (if ever).

The first word that comes to my mind when I think about 2003 is 'accessibility' - most of the wines I have tasted are ready to drink today after a short decant. I am of the opinion that this is not a classic vintage and that these wines are not for aging - there has been a tendency to riper fruit, higher alcohol and low acidity. While some have said that the tannins in the '03s could be unripe, or even harsh, I am finding them soft and velvety for the most part (exception below) and in a blind tasting of Bordeaux I suspect some might think a few Californian wines were slipped into the mix. Given the riper, more accessible, less structured wines that have been produced in this vintage, I suspect 2003 will ultimately be viewed as a tragedy by the experts - a vintage for Claret lovers to forget.

Which brings up an interesting point - do all Clarets need to be 'cellar-worthy' to be enjoyed? Perhaps that is the joy of variable vintages - some vintages deliver wines of incredible depth, structure and aging potential, while others deliver every pleasures to pour while your treasures age? That is my view of 2003 - there were some great, but not classic, wines produced for oenophiles to savour while waiting for their 2000s to mature...

Here are some notes on three 2003s that are on my list of Top 50 Cellar Picks:

The 2003 Chateau Pibran (Pauillac) is a modestly priced Claret that I have been buying regularly since I first tasted the 2000 vintage. A gorgeous nose of violets and cloves, damp undergrowth, fresh ground pepper and ripe blackberries, tea and smoke. Crisp and spicy on the palate with chalky tannins, well-balanced but slightly dilute, it took some time to soften up in the decanter but opened up beautifully - Lloyd said it "screamed for a steak". Score: 17/20

The 2003 Croix-Mouton (Bordeaux Superieur) is an outlier to my comments above - very flinty, with strong liquorice and vegetal notes, also showing some leathery dark fruit, violets and damp undergrowth on the nose. Structured, with crisp, minerally and smokey fruit, but rather angular and needing air time to soften up. A classic Bordeaux that should flourish with a few years in the cellar. Score: 17/20

The 2003 Chateau Clarke (Listrac Médoc) was a modern-styled wine with a big nose of vanilla-y oak and leathery ripe blackberries, some pepper and flinty notes. While not as jammy as the nose suggested, it was round and luscious with peppery fruit and woodsy tannins. Easy drinking after a short decant but it got flabby quickly. Drink now. Score: 16.5/20

Bordeaux and Beet Soup on Christmas Eve

It's Christmas Eve, time for some Christmas Eve Borscht!

The menu was nearly identical to last year's Christmas Eve celebration so I was inclined to Pinot Noir, but I had a problem - we had eight adults for dinner. With a cellar of nearly 500 bottles you would think that this was no problem at all. Unfortunately, I have a healthy collection of nearly everything - singles and doubles of nearly every grape and region from around the world - but very few runs of three or more (most of which are not yet ready) -- PANIC!

So, my love of quirky wine bites me in the behind...certainly no Pinot Noir to serve this thirsty crowd, but a search of my cellar unearthed four bottles of the 2003 Chateau Reysson Reserve, a Cru Bourgeois from the Haut-Medoc. The notes are nearly identical to 18 months ago, but it was even softer and more elegant - a lovely and relatively inexpensive Bordeaux at its peak.

This wine got me to thinking about the 2003 Bordeaux vintage...more soon.

2005 Mascaron par Ginestet

I love it when friends bring gifts of wine, especially when it is one of their personal treasures - critics and shopkeepers aren't the only ones to make great finds!

Tonight we go to Bordeaux for my first taste of the famed 2005 vintage, a gift from my good friend Eric. Eric has been raving about the 2005 Mascaron par Ginestet, and for good reason - lovely violet, currant and blackberry notes leap out of the glass, some prunes and an earthy greenness in there as well. Terrific on the palate, with really nice density, a velvety texture, juicy fruit, minerally black earth and a lingering finish. This Merlot (60%)/Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) blend is a big winner at this price point, and a reflection of just how good 2005 was for Bordeaux. Give it a short decant or stick it away for 2-3 years.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$17.80 (SAQ)

La Colombe: Great Food & Friends, Pair With Awesome Wine

I joined two buddies, Ash and Lloyd, for an evening of great food and wine at La Colombe. It was my first ever visit to La Colombe, one of Montreal's great "bring your own wine" restos. Lloyd's favourite, I would have to agree that it is amongst Montreal's best, but as great as the food was (my veal shank was stupendous), an amazing flight of wines were the stars this evening...

Lloyd's contribution was a 1995 Grand-Puy-Lacoste (Pauillac). Leafy green notes gave way to unsweetened cocoa, leather, grenadine, smokey black pepper, truffles and pencil shavings - gorgeous! Ever so elegant on the palate, with bright cherry fruit, silky tannins, fresh acidity and a long finish, it was drinking very well this evening but could go MANY more years. A strong case for investing in a wine cellar.
cork, 13% alcohol, Score: 18.5/20

My wine friends rarely taste high-end Malbec so I thought I'd surprise them with my last bottle of 2000 Catena Alta Malbec Angelica Vineyard (Mendoza). A complex and ever-changing nose...beef au jus with a fruit sauce on top...dark cherries, charcoal, flint, undergrowth, cocoa powder and coffee grounds. A palate of crisp, dark cherry fruit and velvety tannins satisfied with a very long finish...even better than last year.
cork, 14% alcohol, Score: 18/20

Ashkan's 1999 Cantina di Montalcino Brunello di Montalcino looked rather suspicious to Lloyd and I, as neither of us had heard of this estate. The mystery continued as this shy bottle took time to open up, later revealing notes of cloves, tobacco, smokey liquorice, and compote. Terrific mouthfeel, all liquorice and velvety tannins dancing across the palate, it may also have been the nicest wine with the food (the decanter emptied first, I believe). IIt might age, but it was drinking So well today.
cork, 13% alcohol, Score: 18/20

Wow, three 18+ wines, doesn't get much better than that...and the food was REALLY, REALLY good.

The Perfect Foil for Lamb Steaks?

With Marcus coming over for an impromptu tasting I quickly scrambled for a theme. In such situations I usually focus on the wines, but tonight it was decided that the food should be front and center. Thus, our four intrepid tasters sought to evaluate which of tonight's wines (Bordeaux, Barbaresco, Toro - all served blind) worked best with grilled terriyaki lamb steaks.

There was no consensus as to the best pairing, but the wine that generated the most commentary and discussion was the 2000 Marchesi di Gresy Martinenga (Barbaresco). Light cherry red in the glass, with a wonderful nose of Jaguar leather, rose petals, rubber, black cherries, liquorice, truffles, damp cedar, and a hint of vanilla. Exquisite on the palate - silky green tannins, ample acidity, crisp fruit, terrific length - polished, with everything in harmony. This beauty was enjoyed here previously... 
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$65 (SAQ)

Our Bordeaux was a "second wine" from a "lesser" vintage, but it was a worthy competitor to our Italian gem and an equally good pairing for tonight's meal. The 2001 Carruades de Lafite (Pauillac) impressed with a complex nose of leather, violet and blackberries, some white pepper, green pepper, and dark tea as well. Crisp dark fruit on the palate framed by strong acidity and well-integrated oak, very poised. I had a bottle of this when it was younger, and I am stunned at how much this wine has improved - this was terrific Bordeaux, purchased at an incredible futures price...
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$49 (LCBO futures)

Our poor Spanish entrant was nobody's favourite, on its own or as a pairing with the meal. The 2001 Quinta Quietud (Toro) was dark purple in the glass, with gobs of spicy new oak on the nose, dark berry fruit, tobacco and cloves, meaty with a late greenness. Thick, dry tannins with good fruit, a great wine but it came off a touch flabby and unpolished in the presence of its distinguished peers. Enjoyed earlier this year...
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$30.75 (SAQ)

A couple of notes: (1) Both the Barbaresco and the Bordeaux were in contention for the best pairing tonight, with all tasters back and forth regarding their preferred wine for tonight's meal - trust me, both work. (2) While the Carruades de Lafite sported a modest price, I see prices on the internet FOUR TIMES higher than what I paid - that was one incredible futures buy, I only wish I dove deeper into that 2001 release.

But there is more - Marcus, ever the glutton for punishment, invited my entire family to his house for a Portuguese wine tasting...stay tuned.

Merlot from Two Hemispheres: 1998 Moueix Pomerol and 2000 Meerlust Merlot

As my passion for wine has grown exponentially, my friends and family no longer gift me wine (I didn't know I was that scary!). It's too bad, as I always appreciate the gifts, especially when they take me "out of my zone" and get me to try new grapes, regions and price points. Both of tonight's wines were exemplary gifts - a merlot-based wine from the Bordeaux appellation of Pomerol and a merlot from South Africa's Stellenbosch region.

The 1998 Jean-Pierre Moueix Pomerol was a surprising gift - I did not know Moueix (owners of a little Chateau called Petrus) made a generic Pomerol, I would not have expected someone to cellar it for ten years, and if they had I wouldn't expect them to give it to me! (many thanks, John) Spearmint and mushrooms appear first on the nose, very earthy, vegetal, and mushroomy as well - subtler, but just as intriguing as the Meerlust below. Very Pomerol on the palate - soft and elegant with black peppery fruit. Despite ten years in the cellar it still showed a good long finish, nice tannins and fresh acidity. Nicely done, and you could stick it back in the cellar for a few more years. 
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: gift

Knowing my love of Meerlust's Rubicon, my friend Andreas insisted that I take home a bottle of the 2000 Meerlust Merlot (nice of him to tell me about it AFTER he bought every bottle in the province). A wild nose that was, well, very South African - animally/barnyardy at first, green pepper and blackberry, mint and leather, wet coffee grounds and black pepper - very pretty, very complex. An animal on the palate as well, with substantial fruit framed by good acidity, but the tannins are harsh at present. A very long finish, I fear this wine is going to need a few more years to soften, but there is so much there I think you will be well rewarded for your patience.
cork. 13.3% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: gift

Many thanks for the gifts, my friends! (now if only that were a 1998 Petrus...)

2001 on the Right Bank - Pomerol and St-Emilion

The big melt is on - the snow (a near record >350cm fell on Montreal this winter) is nearly gone, and the arrival of milder temperatures and the clear path to my barbecue are cause for celebration...steak and Bordeaux!

Tonight's rib steaks were paired with two "right bank" wines for another of Joe's blinded, head-to-head comparisons - a St-Emilion versus a Pomerol from the unheralded 2001 vintage.

On the right bank merlot reigns supreme, and both of these wines were no exception. The wines of Pomerol are known to be soft and lush, while the wines of St-Emilion typically use more cabernet franc, and are known for cedary, herbaceous and mineral notes (1).

The 2001 Chateau Moulin St-Georges (St-Emilion) was peppery, leathery and herbaceous, with nice rose petal and minerally notes on the nose. Awkward at first despite a one hour decant before dinner, it softened up to show good acidity, nice minerality and a velvety texture. More interesting than the La Pointe below, it will need a few more years to sort itself out. 
cork. 13.5% alcohol
est: 70% merlot, 15% cab franc, 15% cab sauv
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$57 (LCBO)

The 2001 Chateau La Pointe (Pomerol) was exactly how I pictured a Pomerol - elegant, soft, luscious and expansive, with a generous serving of silky tannins. Attractive, but subtle and less complex than the St-Emilion - earthy, truffley, smokey cheese, perfume and dark cocoa powder. A well made, textbook Pomerol, also needs a few more years. 
cork. 13% alcohol
80% merlot, 10% cab franc, 10% cab sauv
Score: 17/20
Price: C$64 (SAQ)

My fellow tasters described the wines as austere - the wines were definitely not fruit forward -evolving over the evening and pairing very well with the grilled meat. After reading some brief notes on characteristics of St- Emilion and Pomerol all tasters easily identified the provenance of the wines.

Personally, I preferred the structured 'edginess' of the St-Emilion, but it is easy to see why people spend vast sums of money on Pomerols - typically more accessible in their youth vs. the wines of the Medoc, I have found them very easy to enjoy.

Guest Blogger: Super-sized Disappointment

Once again I welcome my good friend Lloyd, who shares a "super-sized disappointment". While a corked bottle is a disappointment that all of us have experienced, sometimes it is more heartbreaking than others...

The 1996 Chateau La Gaffeliere, St. Emilion Grand Cru (Magnum) represented many firsts for me. My first magnum; my first wine over $100, and my first Bordeaux bought to age. I didn’t even own a standup cellar in 1999 when I paid a scary C$120 for what I was then told would be a very special wine after 2005. If only.

On an occasion for a group I hosted in November, I finally decided to open it. I stood it up for 48 hrs, brought it gently to room temperature and brought the cork out perfectly. But it never quite went away as the dreaded taint filled my nostrils. I was in denial for the first hour. “It’ll blow off”, I explained patiently to Clarissa as she twisted her nose at her glass, “St. Emilions with 10+ years do this all the time, you know.” But it didn’t, and all the emotions went through my head. I had so much invested in this bottle, which had seen me through 2 wives, 3 homes and 4 cellars (holding prominent places in each one), and that I had considered opening so many times (but always waited for that special occasion).

I’m hardly a cork-taint-virgin. I’ve opened my share of corkers, at home and about. I’ve been somewhat lucky, though, falling way under the 10% of cork-enclosed bottles that’s supposed to be the average. But this was a Magnum, my first. Sorry, am I whining? Well maybe the biggest part of the disappointment was the obviously great wine underneath. Vanilla, nuts (almond?) and red fruit – strawberry and cherry – come blazing through on the palate, which was medium bodied and classically balanced. Nice wood and a bit of mushroom or truffle that was too close the cork to accurately discriminate, but it was there. Such potential.

Many of us have wines tucked away for that special occasion, and memories of great wines that have as much or more to do with the company and the occasion than the wine itself. My Gaffeliere was probably a good reminder of the emotive potential of the juice we love so dearly. Clarissa keeps telling me you need the bad to really appreciate the good…and we know she’s always right…
Score: Corked
Price : C$119.95 (SAQ), Magnum

Mini Vertical #5: 1999 vs. 2001 Chateau Carbonnieux

I couldn't do a series of mini-verticals without stepping into Bordeaux. Tonight's two Bordeaux come from the unheralded 1999 and 2001 vintages, sandwiching yet another one of the "vintages of the century" - I can't fault the Bordelais for trying, but as one of their primary customers I find it all a bit annoying.

Anyway, I was curious about these two "inferior vintages" of a wine that my tasting group seriously enjoyed a few years ago. Carbonnieux is based in Pessac-Leognan, and is unusual in that it produces nearly equal amounts of red and white wine. For red grapes the vineyard is planted 60% Cabernet and 30% Merlot, with the balance being Cab Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carmenere.

The 1999 Chateau Carbonnieux was cherry red, with some bricking at the edge. Vegetal and roses at first, some blackcurrant, prunes, blackberry, musk, leather, black pepper and gravelley wet stones, medicinal as well. On the palate it was a classic Bordeaux - very dry, crisp and spicy. Light to medium bodied, with powerful tannins and ample acidity that seemed a awkward, but developing improved elegance with more air time. I recommend drinking now, or over the next few years. Note this tasted nothing like my notes from 2005.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$65 (SAQ)

The 2001 Chateau Carbonnieux was cherry red, with a caramel nose at first, but shifting quite dramatically to vegetal, then mushrooms, truffles, and black earth, roses and crisp berries. Very nice. On the palate were dry, firm tannins and good acidity, very powerful and rough around the edges at first, but developing and improving over the evening at a rapid rate. Despite the awkwardness this was a much more complex and interesting wine that I believe needs more time to develop - stick it away for another five years.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$66 (SAQ)

A few observations: (1) Despite both being awkard, I felt the 2001 has potential and should develop nicely, while the 1999 does not appear to have that potential (2) Another major split between RP and WS tonight - the '01 was an 89 for Bob, but Suckling gave it a 79 - that's a very big gap (3) The prices on these were way too high - bad QPR.

Those following my Mini Verticals will notice that I have not made any comments on the actual vintages I am tasting. I have done that purposely - tasting first, reviewing the vintage commentary afterwards to compare to my notes. I will review this series in greater detail soon.

Raclette Bordelais

I would probably serve a white wine, like the Swiss chasslas in my prior post, with a simple cheese raclette. But tonight's raclette also featured filet mignon so we went red, and my wife insisted on Bordeaux. For five adults we put together a nice flight of three red Bordeaux from different appellations.

On my left was the 2000 Moulin Pey-Labrie from the Canon-Fronsac appellation, a merlot that was a suggestion from Brooklynguy (and previously tasted here in March). Ruby red in the glass, the nose was very subtle, very leathery and peppery at first, reluctantly giving up blackberry, dark cherry, and earthy vegetal and tobacco scents. On the palate it was spicy and lighter bodied that the others, but with a smooth multilayered elegance that had everyone talking. This was even better than the last time around. Drink now.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$35.50 (SAQ)

In the middle was the 2000 Chateau Haut-Breton Larigaudiere from Margaux, and from what I can gather is mainly cab sauv, with some merlot and petit verdot mixed in. I bought this after a great experience with the 1999, thinking the celebrated 2000 vintage would be even better. Dark ruby in the glass, this was the jammiest of the three. On the nose dark cherry fruit, almost blueberry, was followed by violet, mint, truffle and vanilla - not bad, but the simplest of the three. Fuller-bodied than the Pey-Labrie, it was similarly smooth and well-balanced - dry, fresh acidity and velvety tannins - but rather simplistic. I was surprised it was the Margaux. May keep a few years, but fine today. Definitely a nice wine, but just not equal to the other two. Four out of five tasters ranked it last.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$39.75 (SAQ)

On my right was the 2003 Chateau Pipeau from St-Emilion, a merlot (90%) with some cab sauv and cab franc. Dark cherry red in the glass, it certainly looked the youngest. The nose was closed at first, but opened nicely with some air to reveal a very leathery and oaky nose, roses, cloves, mint, vanilla, liquorice and smoke. Beautiful on the palate - very dry, with big velvety tannins, this was a full-bodied, spicy and flavourful wine, but with impeccable poise and balance. Four out of five tasters rated the Pipeau the best. Note the serious price discount to the other two - great value. Tasted here last November, it must be aging well - score is up.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20 (very close to an 18, maybe next year)
Price: C$28 (LCBO futures)

The wines were all decanted an hour before dinner and enjoyed over the evening. They were all classy and a nice pairing for the meal, but the Pipeau was the hands-down winner, and even more compelling considering the price. Cheers!

Stoopid Bordeaux

The only thing "Stoopid" about last night's Bordeaux tasting was the cover charge. At our last tasting, some of the gang decided that we should go whole hog and raid our cellars for our best bottles. With a focus on the Left Bank, the group delivered an unbelievable flight of Bordeaux for a blind review of six amazing wines:

1985 Château Margaux (Margaux, Premier Grand Cru)
1989 Château Margaux (Margaux, Premier Grand Cru)
1995 Château Palmer (Margaux, Third Growth)
1999 Château Haut-Brion (Pessac-Leognan, Premier Grand Cru)
2001 Château Kirwan (Margaux, Third Growth)
2003 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (Pauillac, Second Growth)

I am going to break with tradition here a little bit and review the wines by age, elders first. Usually, after one of our grand tastings a winner is declared (before unblinding) and I discuss the wines in rank order. But facing the best flight of wines we have ever poured, the judges were constantly changing their scores and rankings, and some protested at having to rank order such beautiful wines. I think we can safely say: (1) these were all amazing wines, and 2) our indecisiveness makes the ranking less meaningful. On to the wines...

If I had a vision for a two decade old First Growth, the 1985 Chateau Margaux was everything I expected. Slightly musty right out of the bottle, the nose started with cooked fruit, later developing a pronounced chocolate, truffles, mint and roses. But the taste was the real highlight - despite nearly 22 years inside a decrepit bottle (see picture above), the wine was barely showing its age. Dry, medium- to full-bodied, and extremely elegant, this aging (but still powerful) wine is in its prime. When forced to choose, the panel rated this #1 (Joe #3).
12.5% alcohol
JoeScore: 18.5/20 (RP94, WS90)

The 1989 Chateau Margaux also had an impact on the group, ranking second only to its older sibling. This makes my notes less relelvant, as I ranked this one dead last - the only one in the group to do so. From my perspective, I found the nose less compelling - very spicy, later softening to reveal some berries and pencil shavings. On the palate I found this wine lighter-bodied and slightly off balance, with sharp tannins and lively acidity making this a very different wine from the 1985. A never-ending finish, I suspect it needs more time to pull together.
12.5% alcohol
JoeScore: 17.5/20 (RP89, WS96)

The 1995 Chateau Palmer was my contribution. I have always wanted to try a Palmer and the employee at Binny's suggested this vintage based on his recent tasting of the wine. The nose on this wine was amongst the best of the evening. Constantly evolving, it smelled very young at first, later opening up to show violets, musk, leather, cloves, pepper, coffee and summer berries. Very nice, but the palate was more modest - lighter-bodied than I was expecting and thinner than many of the others. Drinking very well now, it could probably benefit from a few more years in the cellar. Ranked fourth by me and the group.
12.5% alcohol
JoeScore: 18/20 (RP90, WS94)

The 1999 Haut Brion generated a lot of buzz, with everyone constantly talking about "contestant number four". The nose was spectacular - violets and roses, musk and leather, cocoa, truffle, mint, oak and wet stones. Rich, beautiful velvety tannins, it was balanced but not yet fully together. An extremely long finish, this wine is soooo not ready, vinuous infanticide. My second favourite and third favourite of the panel.
13% alcohol
JoeScore: 18.5/20 (RP93, WS91)

The 2001 Kirwan was a competent wine. Alone, it would have garnered raves, but in the company of three first growths and a second growth it seemed rather ordinary. Oh, but to keep such company and still retain your composure! The nose started off very nicely, with everyone at the table complimenting this wine. Violets, roses, dark berries, and some wilder notes - meaty, earthy, and oaky. But the palate did not deliver, with a ligher-bodied wine and harsher tannins that threw the whole thing slightly off balance vs. its peers. A nice wine, but this needs more time in the cellar. Ranked last by the group, but my fifth place.
13% alcohol
JoeScore: 17.5/20 (RP90, WS90)

The 2003 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was controversial from the first smell. A powerful nose of caramel and jammy fruit, with violets, mint and toast, it stood out like a sore thumb in this Margaux-heavy grouping. While the group hated the nose, I simply found it different and only slightly less appealing than some of the others. And while the gang could not get over their dislike of the nose, I found this wine to be extremely elegant and poised. Rich and nutty, with dry tannins and bright fruit, this wine had a very long finish. Surprisingly accessible now, this will probably improve over time. My first place - I was the only one on the panel to do so (overall 5th place ranking).
13% alcohol
JoeScore: 18.5/20 (RP95, WS93)

Commentary:

Thanks to everyone for such a tremendous set of wines. I especially want to thank the hosts, Lloyd and Clarissa, for their hospitality (and the 1985 Chateau Margaux). I especially liked the chilled strips of lightly-cooked Filet Mignon - an excellent pairing for this flight.

I have to say I find myself a bit depressed after this tasting. Not skilled in psychoanalysis, I can only speculate as to the cause. Perhaps it was the recogntion that I will never, ever, have such a wonderful flight of wines in my life? Maybe it was the haunting, ever-changing aromas that still have me second guessing my views over a day later? Or maybe it was my very non-consensus view of the flight, especially the Pichon Longueville? Whatever it was, I will not be able to get this tasting out of my mind for some time.

Would I actually buy one of these? The 1999 Haut Brion is probably the wine that stood out with having such potential I would stick a bottle away, and I would certainly love to try the Picon again in 10 years...

Cheers!

Bordeaux Catch Up: Chateaux Corbin and Hanteillan

Occasionally my fellow bloggers guide me to a wine. For some strange reason, these always seem to be Bordeaux .... Regardless, I love to try a wine suggested by my fellow bloggers, and with Steak on the grill tonight a fine Bordeaux seemed very appropriate.

Back in April Tyler (Dr. Vino) asked me to pass on my thoughts of the 2001 Chateau Corbin (you can see his post for more detail on the property and notes on other vintages). I was intrigued by his post, as I find right bank wines , especially those wines from Pomerol and St-Emilion, to be very expensive, and the local pricing on this wine was much more reasonable than most St-Emilion wines carrying the Grand Cru classification. This ruby red wine is mainly Merlot (80%), with the balance Cab Franc. On the nose it showed lovely scents of caramel, violet and rose, leather, coffee, and some ripe cherry fruit. On the palate this was an extremely elegant wine - dry, medium bodied, with nice blackerry fruit and velvety tannins. With a rather long finish, this wine needs some more time in the cellar, but is very drinkable now and an excellent pairing with a steak. My wife even commented that, unlike many Bordeaux wines this was a great wine for sipping before dinner (she loved this wine). Definitely.
13.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$41 (SAQ)

Alongside the Corbin I served a left bank Bordeaux suggested by Dok Weingolb, the 2003 Chateau Hanteillan. (I think I am Dok's guinea pig, as he has not yet tried this one but made some vague reference to Michel Phaneuf, a local wine critic.) Ruby red in colour, this Haut Medoc has a very high percentage of Merlot (50%) blended with Cab Sauv (45%) and Petit Verdot. The nose started very spicy, with strong scents of liquorice and pepper, followed by some violet, oak, cherry and smoke. Very nice, but slightly less complex and interesting than the Corbin. On the palate this was a big, tannic wine - dry, minerally, with nice dark cherry fruit and a long finish. Not as polished as the Corbin, but this was in good part related to age. An excellent match for steak, and a very good value - buy a few bottles for the cellar.
13.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$20 (SAQ)

Comments:
On the Corbin, my wife commented that the wine had a scent of garlic on the nose, which neither I nor Cam could detect. We later found that, indeed, a chunk of garlic had fallen in her glass. A terrific nose, but terrible eyesight...

To correctly put the Hanteillan discussion with the Dok in context, Dok asked me to compare the Hanteillan to a Croix des Sablons in response to my post from France. This is not a fair comparison, given the Paris setting of the Sablons. Fair to say that the Sablons is more drinkable today.