Friday Night with Eden

Getting together with my buddy Eden is always great fun - Eden is a recovering Shiraz-oholic and a blank canvas upon which I can impose my views of the wine world. And he has a particular interest in 'a great value'.

Given his propensity for Shiraz and love of a great value I have over the years tried to guide him towards the South of France, like tonight's 2007 Hecht & Bannier Saint-Chinian (Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvedre). A delightfully wild -dare I say rustic - nose of leather and smoke, meaty black cherries, almonds and some vanilla notes add to the pleasure. A crisp, intriguing, medium bodied wine, pairing nicely with some grilled steaks. Score: 17/20, Price: C$22.95 (LCBO)

Spain is replete with value, but my taste buds were thinking "quality" so I also picked up a bottle of the 2005 Torres "Mas La Plana" Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine enjoyed many times in the past. Another hit tonight - a beautiful grenadine nose, with cedar and lots of violet. Elegant, sophisticated on the palate, incredibly smooth, silky tannins and a long, crisp, sour cherry finish. Wow. Score: 18/20, Price: C$44.95 (LCBO)

To round out this quirky flight I picked up a higher-end Argentinian wine, as Eden is well versed in the great values coming out of Argentina. The 2002 Alpha Crux from Mendoza's O. Fournier is an intriguing blend of Tempranillo, Malbec and Merlot. A powerfully meaty, gamey, nose - you could smell the tannins - allowing only glimpses of the delicate fruit underneath. Perhaps awkward is a better word, with dense grainy tannins tannins biting into the palate...such an incredibly long finish, and after a few hours still hinting at the greatness inside. I nabbed a few bottles to stick in the cellar, it will be very interesting to revisit this one in a few years. Score: 17.5++/20, Price: C$39.95 (LCBO)

Wow, what a night! I guess I need to open some Sassicaia to top that...(stay tuned)

Another Christmas Party Wine Mystery

For our Christmas Party each year (1,2) I decant and serve four red wines blind, asking my guests to use their intuitions and "guess" which wine is which, typically by providing clues about the grape or region. An incredibly simple concept, but extraordinarily difficult (and humbling) in reality - even for the experts. But what a marvelous way to get people thinking about, and talking about, wine!

This year's selections:

2007 Falesco Vitiano (Umbria, Italy)
2007 Wolf Blass Cabernet Sauvignon Yellow Label (South Australia)
2006 Montecillo Crianza (Rioja, Spain)
2007 Alamos Malbec Seleccion Especial (Mendoza, Argentina)

The rationale for tonight's picks? Excellent price to quality for their respective styles, based on personal experience, and sufficiently different grapes and winemaking styles to make the guessing a bit easier....

Unfortunately, nobody correctly identified all four wines - in fact only two guests picked two of four correctly. I blame the Vitiano mainly - 1/3 each of Merlot, Cabernet and Sangiovese it came across more modern and approachable for an "Old World" wine and displayed no definitive "Italian-ness". Adding to our intrepid wine detectives' misery, the Wolf Blass was very reserved and came across as a reserved, "Old World", wine.

Yes, the wines were not easy to triangulate, but at least the wines were pretty darn good overall - no duds tonight, as in previous years. (It shouldn't be much of a surprise, I suppose, as most of these wines frequently appear on "best value" lists)

It was interesting to note that all of the wines were 13.5% alcohol - not low, but certainly NOT the elevated alcohol we see with too many entry level wines these days. Less surprising for the Rioja, perhaps, but an Argentine Malbec? Wonderful to see.

There was some debate as to whether the Falesco was better than the Montecillo., but in the end both of those decanters drained equally quickly. (the true test)

All in all a great evening, and nobody had a bad glass of wine - that's the "Joe Guarantee®"

1999 Hacienda Monasterio

How can a bottle so brimming with joy bring me so much sadness?

It was last call for my 1999 Hacienda Monasterio Crianza (Ribera del Duero), a Tempranillo (70%) with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Notes of earthy, damp forest undergrowth, cherries and coffee grounds, almonds, roses and ferns wave a tearful goodbye, while crisp, spicy, peppery cherries, silky tannins and a fine chalky texture sensually kiss the palate, an interminable goodbye...my last bottle - gone, my love, but never to be forgotten (1, 2, 3, 4) ...
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$38 (SAQ)

Note: This wine has also earned a mention on my Top 50 list, but sadly the latest vintage sold out at a price DOUBLE what I paid for this. I shoulda kept my mouth shut...

Wines Good Enough for a 40-Year Old

Ok, so I left that post about turning forty on a bit long - so long that Barry is now accusing of milking this event. But what has really taken me so long is writing up so many notes on the various wines I drank to celebrate - thank God the festivities occur only once per decade...

For my birthday my wife secretly invited a group of friends out for dinner at Yoyo, and she even raided my cellar for an old Bordeaux (doesn't she know she's not allowed down there?). I cannot blame her, as she was only following the instructions of my good friend and occasional guest blogger Lloyd...

Actually, my 1994 Chateau Pontet-Canet (Pauillac) was already standing up in anticipation of this personal milestone, and did not disappoint. A big nose of mushrooms, green pepper and black earth ("Smells like the earth it was grown in", said my wife), minty and hints of creme brulee, later some fresh flowers (violet) and slate. Tremendous length and silky tannins, but with that crisp fruit and wonderfully fresh acid that modern Bordeaux seems to lack...some nuttiness and green olives at the end. Drinking very well after 3 hours in the glass, this could easily age for a few more years. Simply classic...
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 18.5/20

Ashkan has been on a streak lately, and his 2001 Condado de Haza Reserva Seleccion Roble Frances (Ribera del Duero) only added to his impressive wine CV. A delicious nose of cheese rind and blackberries, flint and flowers ... a palate of crisp, velvety tannins and a tremendously long finish ... a touch edgy, I wonder if some time in the cellar will sort this out?
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17.5+/20

Lloyd's 2001 Terra d'hom (Priorat) was pretty much what I expected from this region - gobs of ripe, dried raisiny fruit, black currants, and woodsy, smokey vanilla...surprisingly lighter bodied and better structured than the nose suggested - delicious velvety fruit, a great wine from a region I rarely have the opportunity to taste...
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20

The 2001 Elderton Command (Barossa) was the reason I ordered the lamb shank for a main course, and after 3 hours in the decanter it was ... mmm ... A brilliant nose of menthol and eucalyptus, cherry pits and wet stones, some classic violet notes ... ginger, flint, and smokey black cherry. Soft and silky on the palate, much more developed since my last taste...so smooth, so elegant, a very long finish of cherry fruit and unsweetened cocoa, but perhaps a bit more tired than I expected (1,2)...
cork. 15% alcohol
Score: 18/20

Thanks to my wife and friends - great food, great wine, great company ... no better way to spend my birthday... (unless it was the Brunello and Burgundy I had the next day)

Another Great Party

Earlier this month I made some suggestions for party wines, and for our annual Christmas party I followed those closely. But unlike last year's party I had to "tighten the belt", so I served a more modest selection of wines for our guests:

NV Codorniu Clasico Brut Cava (Spain)
2007 Wolf Blass Cabernet Sauvignon Yellow Label (Australia)
NV Bistro Mundo Tempranillo (Spain
2006 Meia Encosta (Portugal)
2006 Crasto (Portugal)

The bubbly starter was a huge success, with many guests sticking to the Codorniu for the entire evening (good thing I had a few extra bottles!). I didn't even bother offering a white this year, thinking this bubbly would serve both roles, and it did so ably, pairing perfectly a spread of homemade quiche, pesto lasagna, curried chicken and various cheeses and charcuterie. Available locally for just $13.65 this wine is a steal.

For the reds I had a bit of fun our guests, blinding the wines and giving the guests a few "simple" tasks: (1) pick out the box wine, (2) guess the cabernet, and (3) guess which was the most expensive. They were also asked to pick a "favourite". The most lively discussions of the evening took place in the vicinity of the four mysterious decanters - just the way I like it!

Now a few comments on the wines. The Meia Encosta was the least favourite and was nearly everyone's pick for "the box wine". This was unexpected as I was rather complimentary of this wine a few weeks back. I even opened a bottle after this event and my wife (blinded) loved it. Perhaps it was the competition, but I stick with my original assessment that this wine "...could be the king of mid-week wines."

The Spanish Bistro Mundo Tempranillo was a "table wine success", generating no major comments, positive or negative, and the decanter emptied at a healthy clip. This wine melded into the background, pairing quite well with the food on offer. Can you ask for more from a box wine?

The crowd of novices and aficionados easily picked out the Wolf Blass Yellow Label as the Cabernet Sauvignon, and it was the favourite wine of the evening for nearly half of my guests. Historically a staple in my household, I haven't had it in years - I forgot how good this inexpensive Aussie Cab was. Even better, the SAQ had a blowout two weeks before Christmas - I picked up a few bottles for just C$13. A steal at that price, and even at the current price of C$17.95 this wine is highly recommended.

The Crasto was the crowd favourite, but it was 50 - 100% more expensive (C$20.15) than the other wines on offer. Easy drinking and flavourful with a fabulous nose, it was a touch flabbier than I recall from a previous tasting but still delicious.

Overall, a great night of wines, capped off by a 2000 Bouscasse Vielles Vignes for the stragglers. And I have a few refinements to my party suggestions for next year.

Happy New Year to All!

2007 Borsao, White and Red

I made a number of suggestions for party wine in a recent post, but you could do much worse than these inexpensive, widely available, Spanish offerings:

The white, the 2007 Borsao Seleccion Joven, hails from the Campo de Borja appellation, a Spanish appellation best known for Garnacha but with many authorized varietals including Tempranillo, Mazuela, Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Macabeo, Chardonnay and Moscatel - this white was 100% Macabeo (Viura). Very creamy, with some white flower and green, earthy notes. Very smooth, luscious, and balanced with no rough edges, impressive at this price.
plastic cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 13.5/20
Price: C$13.15 (SAQ)

The red, a 2007 Borsao (Campo de Borja) is a blend of Grenache (70%), Syrah (20%) and Tempranillo. A nose of dark berry fruit, tart and cedary, with some smokey and leathery notes. Light bodied, with mild tannins and oaky crisp fruit, but not overoaked. A bit awkward and unbalanced at first but it softened over evening. Enjoyable, but not memorable, a decent pour at this price. I wonder how this would stack up to these Portuguese treasures (1,2) in a blind tasting?
plastic cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 13/20
Price: C$11.65 (SAQ)

Both of these were simple, but simple is not a criticism - at this price point what I really look for is a wine that is flourful with no"rough edges", and these delivered. Great for a party!

Three Views of Spain and One Paella

Spanish wine is most commonly associated with red wines made from Tempranillo, but Spain produces a myriad of wines from quirky grapes and unheralded appellations. Similar to my Lasagna/Italian wine taste test, tonight I sought to pair a few Spanish reds with "Paella with Pine Nut Meatballs, Sausage and Potatoes" (p. 346) to see which worked best.

Carrying the flag for Rioja was the 2001 Finca Allende Vina Olvido. Similar to my reviews of last January - tarry prunes and leather on the nose, with crisp cherry fruit and silky tannins - this seemed to be the crowd favourite pairing for this meaty paella, but less interesting than the other two wines. 
cork, 12.5% alcohol, Score: 17/20

The smallish Spanish D.O. of Montsant was represented by the 2001 Capçanes Costers del Gravet. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Carignan, sporting a complex nose of smokey blackberry and violet, cooked fruit and a heavy dose of oak. Dry and velvety textured on the palate with a very long finish - seems like it could age, but fine now with a lengthy decant. Probably better with a steak than tonight's paella. (2000 vintage reviewed here)
cork, 14% alcohol, Score: 17.5/20

Bierzo is located in northern Spain and is home to a rare grape, Mencia, the grape used in tonight's 2006 Pétalos by Descendientes de J. Palacios. A vivid nose of damp, black earth and vegetal notes...cherries, cappuccino, liquorice, black pepper and meaty aromas as well...very complex, coughing up new secrets with every swirl of the glass. Beautiful texture and mouthfeel, velvety tannins and crisp acidity, an extraordinary wine at this price point (but not as well paired with this paella). (2005 vintage reviewed here)
cork, 12.5% alcohol, Score: 18/20

Now some of you may recall a rather a rather salty paella in January, but my skills have much improved - the real star tonight was my paella! The first time my cullinary cooking skills have overshadowed my wine selections...

The Perfect Foil for Lamb Steaks?

With Marcus coming over for an impromptu tasting I quickly scrambled for a theme. In such situations I usually focus on the wines, but tonight it was decided that the food should be front and center. Thus, our four intrepid tasters sought to evaluate which of tonight's wines (Bordeaux, Barbaresco, Toro - all served blind) worked best with grilled terriyaki lamb steaks.

There was no consensus as to the best pairing, but the wine that generated the most commentary and discussion was the 2000 Marchesi di Gresy Martinenga (Barbaresco). Light cherry red in the glass, with a wonderful nose of Jaguar leather, rose petals, rubber, black cherries, liquorice, truffles, damp cedar, and a hint of vanilla. Exquisite on the palate - silky green tannins, ample acidity, crisp fruit, terrific length - polished, with everything in harmony. This beauty was enjoyed here previously... 
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$65 (SAQ)

Our Bordeaux was a "second wine" from a "lesser" vintage, but it was a worthy competitor to our Italian gem and an equally good pairing for tonight's meal. The 2001 Carruades de Lafite (Pauillac) impressed with a complex nose of leather, violet and blackberries, some white pepper, green pepper, and dark tea as well. Crisp dark fruit on the palate framed by strong acidity and well-integrated oak, very poised. I had a bottle of this when it was younger, and I am stunned at how much this wine has improved - this was terrific Bordeaux, purchased at an incredible futures price...
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$49 (LCBO futures)

Our poor Spanish entrant was nobody's favourite, on its own or as a pairing with the meal. The 2001 Quinta Quietud (Toro) was dark purple in the glass, with gobs of spicy new oak on the nose, dark berry fruit, tobacco and cloves, meaty with a late greenness. Thick, dry tannins with good fruit, a great wine but it came off a touch flabby and unpolished in the presence of its distinguished peers. Enjoyed earlier this year...
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$30.75 (SAQ)

A couple of notes: (1) Both the Barbaresco and the Bordeaux were in contention for the best pairing tonight, with all tasters back and forth regarding their preferred wine for tonight's meal - trust me, both work. (2) While the Carruades de Lafite sported a modest price, I see prices on the internet FOUR TIMES higher than what I paid - that was one incredible futures buy, I only wish I dove deeper into that 2001 release.

But there is more - Marcus, ever the glutton for punishment, invited my entire family to his house for a Portuguese wine tasting...stay tuned.

1998 Remirez de Ganuza Reserva

The 1998 Remírez de Ganuza Reserva was classic Rioja - light lots of spicy oak on the nose, figs, crisp cherries, some subtle floral notes and a meatiness that showed later on. Oaky on the palate as well, with velvety tannins and really nice acidity. Still evolving over the night, it could go for a few more years. Great pour, but a touch disappointing at this price point. Tasted blind here.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$68 (SAQ)

Joe Cooks! Spanish Wine and Paella

Over the objections of my wife I got a Paella pan and a Spanish cookbook for Christmas. Trying it out for the first time, I went for a (nearly) classically styled Valencian Paella. To pair with this creation I pushed for a white but my wife was kind enough to let me use her kitchen, so I relented and poured some Riojas for dinner.

The 2000 Sierra Cantabria Coleccion Privada was a spectacular Rioja, and one of the best wines I tasted over the holidays. Ruby red with a tinge of brick in the glass, it regaled us with a gorgeous, perfumey nose - violet, rose and lavender, cooked berries, leather and musk, cloves, allspice, tobacco, smokey figs - an olfactory delight. The palate? Harmonious - dry velvety tannins and crisp acidity combine with crisp cherry fruit and a nice, soft texture and a long finish to deliver near perfection. In its prime, but this could be cellared for a few more years. A terrific value - yes, even at this price.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 18.5/20
Price: C$45 (SAQ)

On another night the 2001 Finca Allende "Vina Olvido" (Rioja) could have been a star, but that's show biz. Cherry red in the glass, it presented an attractive but uncomplex nose of smoke, milk chocolate, and prunes. But don't let that discourage you, as it tasted great. Juicy, spicy and elegant with nice, crisp acidity and modest fruit. Aging very well (I have had a few bottles over the years), but now is the time to enjoy this bottle.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$36 (Opimian)

And the paella? Well, let's just say that Joe needs to cook more and drink less - I used a store-bought chicken stock that was WAY too salty. The crowd reached for their water more than they reached for the wine...(a first in my house)

Mini Vertical #3: 2000 vs. 2001 Quinta Quietud

Getting out of the house, but not getting away from my cellar, we decided on an early sitting at Toucheh, a local BYO resto known for great food at a reasonable price. To match the Iranian/Italian inspired fare I brought two Spanish reds, in keeping with my mini-vertical theme.

The 2000 Quinta Quietud comes from Toro, a Spanish appellation down river from Ribera del Duero. This wine, 100% tempranillo (Tino de Toro), was bright cherry red in the glass. Oaky and peppery on the nose at first - crisper fruit and more subtle - it later showed some plum, white cherries, rose, hay, mint and coffee. Very dry, with fresh acidity and supple tannins, it was a bit awkward and less balanced. Very enjoyable, but less complex than the 2001 below. Drink now.
cork. 14.3% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: $39.75 (SAQ)

The 2001 Quinta Quietud was a deep, dark cherry red (much darker than 2000) and very aromatic. Lots going on - spicy at first, supported by attractive violet, blackberry, strawberry, cherry, oak, earth, pepper, tea and smoke aromas. The spiciness continued on the palate. Very dry, with ripe berry fruit and ample oak, it had a nice backbone of firm tannin and fresh acidity. Elegant, harmonius, with a very long finish, this wine could use much more time in the cellar. My type of Spanish red - dry, spicy and beautifully textured. Great price.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: $30.75 (SAQ)

For dessert I brought a Jurancon Sec, the 2005 Domaine Cauhape "Symphonie de Novembre". Golden yellow in the glass, the nose was all apples, quince, pears, cantaloupe and fig. Honey, green melon and apples on the palate, it had a nice bitterness and acidity on the finish. Rich, smooth, balanced, it was not too sweet, viscous, or fruity. Terrific.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: $38.00 (SAQ)

I highly recommend Toucheh - the chef came to our table and explained the fine selection of 10 different entrees (incl. some vegetarian), and service was very attentive. But don't count on them to be wine nuts - the glassware was weak and there were no decanters (I brought my own) to be seen, but they did bring an ice bucket for the Cauhape. Not a problem, just prepare yourself.

2003 Casa de la Ermita

The D.O. Jumilla, south east of Madrid, is not Spain's best known winemaking region, but it (and the adjacent D.O. Yecla) can be a source of great values, like tonight's Casa de la Ermita - a blend of Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Cabernet and Petit Verdot.

An attractive cherry red in colour, the 2003 Casa de la Ermita Crianza (Oaked) leaps forth with oak and black cherries on the nose, with supporting scents of rose, licorice, and smoke. Dry, firm tannins, with spring cherries and grenadine on the palate, good acidity and a medium body. Great now, but may keep a few more years in the cellar. A good match for a pork stir fry, but probably a better pair with something meatier off the grill. I have had other vintages, and this seems to be a pretty consistently good wine.

13.5% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$19

Spanish Inquisition

Last night our tasting group met for a second take on Spanish tempranillo. Our last tempranillo night was nearly 3 years ago, and our group has changed dramatically over the years, so this was guaranteed to be a very different evening. Or was it? Two of the feature wines were the winners from three years ago...

But I digress. It was an evening of intense debate for our ten tasters, as we pondered the following six wines, both in relation to each other and in relation to the broader world of wine. On paper it was a stellar lineup:

1998 Remirez de Ganuza (Rioja)
1998 Campillo Reserva (Rioja)
1999 San Vicente Crianza (Rioja)
2001 Torre Muga (Rioja)
2001 La Vina de Andres Romeo (Rioja)
2003 Camp Eliseo (Toro)

In the end, there can only be one winner, and while three of the six wines garnered a first place ranking, it was Pramod's 2001 La Vina de Andres Roméo that was the clear crowd favourite. Six tasters named this their favourite and two rated it second (it also received a fourth and a fifth place ranking). I thought it was spectacular - powerful tobacco and spice at first, it settled down over the evening to reveal roses, strawberry, oak, musk, leather, and smokey/tarry aromas. Very dry and rich with firm, velvety tannins, this powerful wine had a very lengthy finish. This was a beautiful, classic, Rioja that is years from being ready to drink. (RP-96, WS-93)
Score: 18/20
Price: $$$

The Second and Third place wines of the evening were very close, but it was Cosme's 1999 San Vicente that took the runner-up prize - only one first place, but consistently in everyone's top 3. This wine also tied for first 3 years ago at our last tempranillo tasting. On the nose it was also dominated by tar and tobacco scents, with jammy fruit and hint of green pepper. Very attractive, but it was the drinkability that scored this wine so high. Probably the most 'ready' of the evening, it was light-medium bodied, crisp, with velvety tannins, beautiful balance and a long finish. Ready to drink now, but may keep for a few years. Note that San Vicente, is owned by the same company that makes the excellent Sierra Cantabria line of Rioja wines, as well as the famous Numanthia from the region of Toro. (RP-92, WS-85)
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$55 (est)

The third place wine was Lloyd's 1998 Remirez de Ganuza. More controversial than the first two, this wine generated first and last place rankings - impressive, considering one of the other wines was corked (another subject of debate). Brick red in colour, the wine displayed an attractive nose of tobacco, pepper, leather, mint and blueberry jam. Light-medium bodied with firm tannins and a long finish, this wine was elegant and well balanced with spicy fruit. Ready now, but could improve with some more bottle age. (RP-95, WS-86)
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$68

Fourth place was Chris' 1998 Campillo Reserva. With his cellar in boxes, he bought this wine on the way to the tasting, and given its modest price it can be called a winner of sorts. I described the nose as fruity and more modern, with smoke, tar, rose, vanilla, pepper, and cherry/blueberry aromas. On the palate it displayed a more modern-style of winemaking versus than the other Riojas - smooth, rich and balanced with a good dose of tannins. Another long finish, this wine will need some time. (RP-88)
Score: 17/20
Price: C$29

In fifth place was Cam's very oddball 2003 Campo Eliseo. The only Toro amongst a sea of Rioja, this wine stood out like a sore thumb. The hand of Michel Rolland was very apparent in a modern-styled, fruit-forward wine. Scents of blueberry jam and butterscotch, it smelled like dessert. On the palate it was rich, thick, tarry and leathery with substantial tannins. It needs time. (RP-90, WS-92)
Score: 16/20
Price: C$66

Yes, I was in last place. My 2001 Torre Muga was corked, although even that assertion was contested. I did not even score it (I was blinded). No point in scoring a corked wine). Disappointing, given the high ratings for this one (RP-95, WS-90). It will be retasted someday.

I would be remiss if I didn't mention the 1999 Hacienda Monasterio. This was also a winner at our last tempranillo tasting, and I gave it a good review here. We opened this to finish the night, and many thought this to be amongst the best of the evening. A steal at $38.

Overall, this was a rather controversial tasting. You can see that the Wine Spectator and Parker ratings are all over the map on these, and the relative rankings of the wines by our group were also very diverse. There was even a healthy debate as to whether any of these wines merited those types of scores. I think for many last night, they just didn't like the Spanish styled wines, but I disagree on the quality call - some of these were excellent wines.

With last night's controversy, set against the phenomenal wines that have come out at our last few tastings, I think it will be sometime before we do a Spanish tasting again.

Many thanks to the host and hostess - the spread of Spanish cheeses and the Spanish ham were excellent. And congrats to Lloyd, Pramod and Cosme - you all ranked your own wine first.

Bordeaux up next, I think. Cheers!

Spanish Oddities

I have Spain on the mind, as our tasting group will hit the Iberian peninsula on April 28th. But the 28th will focus on the tempranillo grape, so I decided to go for some 'atypical' (i.e. not from Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Priorat, Toro) Spanish wines this evening. In that vein, the following two wines were chosen to pair with a hearty veal stew:

2001 Marques de Grinon Summa Varietalis (Castilla La Mancha)
2000 Capcanes Costers del Gravet (Montsant)

The 2001 Summa Varietalis by Marqués de Griñón is a blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot from the Castilla La Mancha y Madrid region of Spain. A bright cherry red, the nose was gorgeous and complex. Strong vanilla and meaty scents were followed by black cherries, tobacco, leather, and subtle vegetal notes. Mmmm.... On the palate this wine was very smooth, with velvety tannins, big fruit and a soft, silky mouthfeel. A modern styled wine, it was soooo smooth, and so interesting. Ready now, but the Summa has the stuffing to keep for a few more years. I bought this on special order - I hope I can find it again. alcohol 14%
Score: 18/20
Price: C$37 (Opimian)

The 2000 Costers del Gravet is one of my favourite Spanish discoveries of all time. This blend of cabernet sauvignon, garnacha (grenache) and cariñena (carignan) was very different from the Summa. It was a lighter, brick red colour, and starting to express some of the plummy aromas that come with age. Very chocolatey on the nose, and supported by scents of strawberries, spring flowers, oak, and woodsy/undergrowth aromas. On the palate the Costers was drier and more tannic, with a very long finish. While this wine should improve with some more time in the cellar, it is very elegant and very well structured today. With a good, tannic, bite, this wine screams "BBQ Steak"! alcohol 14%
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$28 (SAQ FYI-the 2001 is $3 less, but I think the 2000 is better)

A most satisfying evening of wine, and both wines paired very well with a veal stew. While not cheap, these Spanish gems were fantastic wines for the price. Cheers!

2001 Sierra Cantabria Cuvee Especial

I wouldn't normally go for a Spanish wine with raclette, but I had such a Spanish craving this evening! After all, Rioja is so nice with steak, surely beef grilling on a rock would provide a similar pairing?

Sierra Cantabria is an excellent house, and 2001 was a great year for the region, so I had pretty high expectations for the 2001 Sierra Cantabria Cuvee Especial. The wine did not disappoint. The nose starts very spicy (pepper, cloves), oaky with some vanilla, followed by blackberry, and musky/smokey scents. Very complex, very interesting.

On the palate, it was light to medium bodied with good acidity and firm tannins backed up by nice, but not overpowering, fruit. This wine is ready now, but could definitely be cellared for a few more years. A surprisingly good match for the raclette, and a favourite with steak. While not a steal, it was terrific value for the quality.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20.
Cost: C$29 (SAQ)

Ribs!

Some of my wife's friends came over for dinner, and we had two nice wines with ribs tonight:

2001 Sierra Cantabria Cuvee Especial (Rioja)
2003 Casa Lapostolle Merlot Cuvée Alexandre (Chile)

This was a huge departure for me, as I usually go straight to the Pinot to match the Black Bean Ribs. I actually opened the Merlot first, under duress, as I as late getting home and everyone was thirsty! Rapid decant, and drank it at cellar temp rather than chambre...

WOW - the Casa Lapostolle is big, powerful, fruity, long finish, spectacular. Sorry I don't have more detail - allergies were acting up and I lost my notes...

As for the Sierra Cantabria, also a wonderful wine. Whereas the Casa Lapostolle was not yet ready, the Sierra Cantabria was full bodied with a nice nose - ready for drinking.

1999 Hacienda Monasterio

The 1999 Hacienda Monasterio is from Ribera del Duero in Spain, and is made from tempranillo (70%), cabernet sauvignon (15%) and merlot (15%). The nose was beautiful and aromatic, with an overwhelming scent of vanilla. The bouquet also included scents of rose, black cherry, heavy oak, pine, pepper, smoke, maybe even some caramel. "Smells like dessert", to quote my notes. The taste matched this terrific nose. This well-balanced, full-bodied red had was amazing - powerful and elegant, soft and tannic, all at the same time. The soft glycerin/fruity taste finished off with a "walloping tannic follow through, firm acidity, Bordeaux-like". A very long finish. Very nice indeed. This wine should continue to improve, a theory I can test on the 3 other bottles in my cellar. I think it is important to note that this wine paired very well with our meal, accentuating rather than overpowering the dinner. Note this wine was the winner of our first Spanish tasting (see July 2004 post), and was a top wine at our Champions tasting in November 2004.
Score: 18/20

Had this with BBQ'd lamb chops (breaking my lamb/shiraz rule...). This would pair well with many different types of food, but especially the BBQ.

2004 Campobarro Tempranillo

The 2004 Campobarro Tempranillo (Who?) is from the Ribera del Guadiana (Where?) region of Spain. Cost? C$9.15 Those who know me must certainly think I've gone crazy!

This was not a random act of penny-pinching. The Gazette guy gave it 'four stars', so I thought "What the heck? I can always cook with it". Not bad - nice gamey scents on the nose, good balance, nice fruit. No length, but hey - this is Vin de Table! It will probably sell out at that price, given the local media star's rating, but an excellent idea for a 'big event' wine. You know, where Uncle Bill from Moose Jaw will probably mix vodka into it anyway, and you still want to enjoy something reasonable.

Steak with Spanish Wine

I am so fond of Bordeaux with steak, that I forget how wonderful some Spanish reds pair with a nice quality, simply prepared steak. For tonight, I brought out two Spanish wines:

2003 Castano Coleccion (Yecla)
2001 Torremilanos Crianza (Ribera del Duero) (Tempranillo)

This was not a good comparison, given the different grapes, but you have to make do with what is ready to go...

The Castano, a blend dominated by Monastrell (aka. Mourvedre, Mataro) with some Cab. Sauv., was younger and fruitier, with stewed fruit and gamey aromas. Very interesting, but a tad rustic. The nose and palate definitely gave away the higher alcohol. I generally love Castano wines (the "Hecula" and simple "Monastrell" are outstanding, and the Dominio Espinal is a great value), but this one was only "good to very good" in my mind. Probably better on its own, without the steak.

The Torremilanos was more tannic and lighter bodied, with good acidity. A classic tempranillo from the Ribera del Duero, this paired very well with the steak. Very powerful, with heavy oak and cherry aromas, it was slightly unbalanced, but that may soften with age.

Overall, tempranillo is a very good match for steak, but I wouldn't say the same for non-tempranillo Spanish wines. Castano is a great house, but maybe not their Coleccion. I will try some more Torremilanos wines before I make up my mind.

Champions night

It has now been a year since our wine group began, and the purpose of this evening was to retaste all of the winners from our thematic tastings head to head. While the scoring was more subjective this evening (it was meant to be fun!), most of our tasters agreed that the Spanish wines were the big winners.

Winners (tie):
1999 San Vicente Crianza (Rioja, Tempranillo)
1999 Hacienda Monasterio Crianza (Ribera del Duero, Tempranillo blend)
There was some debate regarding the San Vicente vs. Hacienda Monasterio, but I believe we are splitting hairs with such fine wines.

From our conversations that night, it appears that the 2002 Castello Banfi 'Colvecchio' (Tuscany, Shiraz) came in third place.

The 1999 Delas Freres Crozes-Hermitage (France, Syrah) seemed quite backward at first, but ratings improved as the wine opened up much later. There was also a lot of interest in the 1999 Stanley Bros. 'Thoroughbred' (Aussie, Cabernet Sauvignon). A tie?

Despite the strong showing of the 1999 Louis Jadot Santenay 'Clos de Malte' (France, Pinot Noir) at our tasting earlier this year, this was the least preferred of the evening. Perhaps an elegant Pinot is overwhelmed in the company of such powerful wines? Perhaps the bottle was slightly off? Who knows – there are no bottles available anywhere for a retaste.