Obscure Wine Regions: Dogliani

Italy has so many obscure wine appellations, but I thought I had a good handle on those. Then I saw this Dogliani. Ok, so it is not that mysterious - a Dolcetto from Piedmont - but something new, I'm a big fan of Dolcetto, and there are not too many on offer at the local wine shops.

The appellation of Dogliani (or Dolcetto di Dogliani) lies to the south in the Piedmont wine region, fashioning wines from this oft-neglected Piemontese grape. According to my good friend David, this region was only granted DOCG status, Italy's highest quality ranking, in 2005. You can read more on this appellation here.

I was very impressed with this example, the 2005 Siri d'Jermu Dolcetto di Dogliani by Pecchenino. A beautiful, earthy nose with ripe dark fruit - much riper that Dolcetto d'Alba's I have tasted - some cedary notes and a subtle use of oak. Good length on the palate, with generous but pleasing tannins, very flavourful but with modest acidity. A very nice package, but perhaps lacking the presence of top Dolcetto d'Albas I have tasted.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$24.95 (SAQ)

2004 Sandrone Dolcetto D'Alba

Following on my Barbera comments I give you a dose of Dolcetto. Dolcetto is often the poor brother of Piedmont, with Barolo, Barbaresco and even Barbera usually in the spotlight. I always think of Dolcetto as being cheap and uninteresting, but that was not the case tonight.

The 2004 Sandrone Dolcetto D'Alba was a light cherry red, with a robust and complex nose - surprising for a Dolcetto. It started very earthy, showing oak, musk, cloves, vanilla, and leather aromas, with a faint hint of green pepper, nice cherry fruit and spring flowers. Very nice! On the palate this Dolcetto was equally interesting - medium-bodied with firm, dry tannins, good acidity and a very long finish. Ready now, or to be enjoyed over the next few years. A tad rustic, just the way I like my Italian wines! A great match for store bought veal canneloni in a homemade tomato sauce.
13% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$22 (SAQ, Courrier Vinicole)

PS - I had a 2001 Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis last year, and it was stunning.