2004 Descendientes de J. Palacios "Villa de Corullon"

I find one of the greatest challenges is to open something for a visiting oenophile - can I find something impressive that they have not yet tasted?

I went out on a bit of a limb with this 2004 Descendientes de J. Palacios Villa de Corullón from Spain's very intriguing Bierzo region. (Well, not entirely on a limb, as I have enjoyed the wines of this maker before) Crafted from the Mencia grape, the Villa begins wild and meaty, later showing some cassis, black ink and an exotic spiciness on the nose as well...joyous! Smartly enveloping the palate...earthy, minerally, with sublime, delicate tannins and impeccable balance, this beautiful wine was still evolving, improving, as Cosme and I emptied the decanter.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 18+/20
Price: C$55 (SAQ)

2007 Quinta dos Roques Vinho Tinto

Bought on account of a tremendous experience with the higher end "Reserve" bottling (notes soon) from this Portuguese estate, this entry level red was equally impressive.

The 2007 Quinta dos Roques Vinho Tinto (Da0), bright cherry red in the glass and with so much going on on the nose - spicy, cedary and earthy to start, some old leather, tart blackberries, and herbal/medicinal notes in the backstage. Fresh and spicy on the palate, excellent balance between the fruit, tannins, and acidity. Silky textured with a pleasing finish, but some heat showing later. No matter - seriously good juice at this price.
Cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$15.90 (SAQ)

Drive for One Hundred: 2003 Quinta do Vale Meao (Duoro)

Sometimes my quest to taste 100 different grape varieties is, well, uninspiring. After all, there is probably a good reason why many of these varietals are rare, right? Well, a totally different story tonight as I knocked off number 98 and 99 on my list and sipped one of the most compelling wines I have tasted in 2008...

The 2003 Quinta do Vale Meão (Duoro) was tantalizing on the nose - tomato sauce, bing cherries, spicy cedar and green pepper at first, later some wet slate, jammy fruit, cocoa, vanilla and cloves. Gorgeous mouthfeel and texture - a healthy dose of acidity combined with crisp, dense berry fruit and velvety tannins for a finish that went on for minutes. A blend of Portuguese varietals: Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 18+/20
Price: C$59 (LCBO)

Drive for One Hundred: Two Obscure Reds

Grapes #95 and #96 in my nearly completed quest are true "oddities" - one fashioned from a grape rarely seen in a single varietal wine, while the other is an obscure old world grape that has somehow found a home in Canada.

I approached the 2004 Vina Ijalba Graciano (Rioja) with some reservation - after all, there must be a reason why Rioja producers have pretty much abandoned (just 0.7% of the vineyard area) this grape, right? A very solid effort - notes of bing cherries, liquorice and truffles dominating on the nose, but some attractive leather, vanilla-y oak, and flinty black pepper as well - very nice to sniff. Crisp cherries and liquorice on the palate, silky tannins and fresh acidity, oaky but not overly so. This is seriously good juice, and could win back some wine drinkers who have abandoned the jammier "nouveau Rioja" wines. 
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$20.65 (SAQ)

I had similar issues with the Baco Noir, i.e. if Baco is so great, why is this grape so rare? Well it seems to have found a home in Canada. The 2005 Henry of Pelham Baco Noir was quite aromatic and interesting - cherry liqueur and old shoes (leather and rubber, but not in a bad way), green herbs and tarry ashpalt notes - somewhat odd, but interesting. Very crisp, fine acidity, but with little tannin and a short finish. An unusual wine, likely polarizing - I kinda liked it, but I just can't figure out the right pairing...
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 15.5/20
Price: C$14.85 (SAQ)

Drive for One Hundred: 2005 Eugenio Collavini Pucino

"Bartender, I'll have a glass of you finest Refosco" ... yep, don't hear that much.

Tonight's obscure grape in my Drive for One Hundred was made from Refosco, a red grape native to northern Italy. Technically it was a "Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso", which is a sub-variety found in Friuli. The 2005 Eugenio Collavini "Pucino", from the Isonzo del Friuli DOC, had a nose of spicy wet wood, smokey currants, grenadine and some dried oregano lurking in the background - some nail polish/solvent notes, but in an attractive way. Light-bodied with decent acidity, delicate tannins and a gravelly palate - fresh and well-balanced, intriguing but uncomplex. Kinda Beaujolais-esqe, but more woodsy, it was very food friendly and might work in white wine situations. It would be neat to blind this in a flight of Beaujolais...hmmm
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$17.60 (SAQ)

Drive for One Hundred: 2007 Lurton Bonarda Reserva

Bonarda is the second most widely planted Argentinian grape but its roots are not clearly established. Some believe it to be related to Italian Charbono (which is different from Californian Charbono), or perhaps a relative of the nearly extinct Savoie red varietal, Corbeau. Regardless of its origin, it is not a grape that wine drinkers commonly ask for by name.

Yes, I was aware of Bonarda before tonight, but I had a preconceived notion that it was an inferior grape. With that bias I set my expectations for the 2007 Bodega Jacques et Francois Lurton Bonarda Reserva low, and was pleasantly surprised - smokey, meaty and spicy (liquorice and cloves) on the the nose, with pretty blackberry and hints of vanilla and dark cocoa. If you are used to big, jammy Malbec the palate on this Bonarda will shock you with medium body, crisp fruit, and green tannins. Surprisingly more structured than I expected (just 12.5% alcohol), but perhaps too tightly wound... A 'rustic', brooding wine for a cold winter day and a hearty stew, some cellar time might soften up the rough edges.
plastic cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 15.5/20
Price: C$15.75 (SAQ)

Drive for One Hundred: 2004 Foradori Teroldego

Teroldego is a red grape from Italy's northernmost Trentino-Alto Adige winemaking region, and is found only rarely outside of Italy. In fact the grape thrives on the gravelly Rotaliano plain in northern Trentino, hence the wines are labelled "Teroldego Rotaliano".

Foradori is the most prominent producer, with the 2004 Foradori Teroldego Rotaliano being the entry-level wine. A very nice nose of peppery dried fruit, herbs, pine, blackberry and cassis, with some medicinal and floral notes as it opened up. Light- to medium-bodied on the palate, with good, juicy fruit and silky tannins. A short-ish finish, but balanced and flavourful, kinda "Gamay meets Nero d'Avola". A very good match for a mild Italian sausage pasta.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$25.15 (SAQ)

Not my first Teroldego - I tasted the impressive (but pricier) Foradori Granato as an opener to our "Oddities Night" - but I want documented proof for the Century Club membership committee...

The only Teroldego I have ever found outside of Italy was at Luna Vineyards, one of my Napa faves. They have used Teroldego in a variety of wines over the years.

Marcus Goes Portuguese

Bachelor-guy Marcus seems to like my kids. I don't know why, but he was comfortable enough with my young family to invite the whole lot of us over to his place for an evening of fireworks, fine food, and Portuguese wine. Unfortunately a rainstorm negatively impacted the viewing of the fireworks from his patio, but the food and wine were excellent.

Marcus whet our appetites with the 2005 Alves de Sousa Branco da Gaivosa, a Portuguese white blend of Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Viosinho and other old grape varieties from Portugal's famed Duoro region. Pear, with some white flower notes, rather simple on the nose. Round and luscious on the palate with modest acid and a hint of oak, some nice bitterness. Simple, but refreshing, worked well with a nice cheese platter.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$18.90 (SAQ)

For dinner Marcus paired a few Portuguese reds with a grilled pork tenderloin.

On our left was the 2003 Herdade do Peso Colheita (Alentejo), a wine fashioned from the local Aragones and Alfrocheiro varietals. Leathery grape skins on the nose, minty blackberry jam, some greenness and spicy black pepper notes as well. Smooth and refined on the palate with light, fresh cherries, velvety tannins and good persistency, this was a great little bottle (and my wife's favourite).
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$21.05

The best wine of the evening, in my opinion, was the 2003 Quinta dos Roques Reserva from Portugal's Dao region, a blend of Touriga Nacional, some Tinta Roriz, Tinta Cao, and other local varieties. Crisp cherries, leather, woodsy tannins, and spicy cloves on the nose, it really impressed on the palate, with fresher and crisper with velvety tannins, beautifully balanced. Not a long finish, this is a wine to drink now. Best pairing with the pork tenderloin.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$32 (SAQ)

The third wine of the evening was a wine from the Ribatejano appellation, a first for me. The 2004 Tercius (a blend of Castelão, Alicante Bouchet, Trincadeira and Aragones), sported a jammy nose of spicy black cherry fruit, some vanilla, smoke and mustiness as well. Thin cherry fruit on the palate, it was flavourful and balanced but intellectually flat. Drink now.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$18.25 (SAQ)

I rarely, if ever, buy Portuguese wine, so many hanks to Marcus for hosting this and bringing me outside of my shell. A little less rain and the fireworks would have been perfect as well!

2004 Domaine du Cros "Cuvee Vielles Vignes"

I skipped over the French appellation of Marcillac in my review of South West France due to limited availability - the SAQ site lists just two wines in the whole province. But this Marcillac comes via NYC, as I recently hooked up with Lyle Fass of Rockss and Fruit for a "wine exchange" - two German whites from Montreal in exchange for whatever Lyle thought I might like.

Marcillac is a small appellation that lies east of Cahors. The appellation is dominated by red wine, and these wines much contain at least 80% of the local variety Fer Servadou (aka Mansois, Braucol). 

The 2004 Domaine du Cros "Cuvee Vielles Vignes" exhibited a vegetal nose, with white pepper, blackberry fruit, meat, old leather, damp forest undergrowth and tarry/smokey aromas as well. Extremely impressive on the palate - beautifully textured with a soft, velvety mouthfeel and good acidity, an incredibly long finish. Lyle referred to this wine as "refined rusticity" and I heartily agree, but my wife simply exclaimed "Mmm, I like that!" - no better compliment that that. I highly recommend this wine to lovers of Loire reds. A wine to buy by the case, I wish I had a few more bottles...
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: gift

Check Lyle's review here, many thanks for this one.

Off the Beaten Path in Italy: Negroamaro and Ripasso

Keeping with the Italian theme this week I thought I'd try some more Italian reds, a negroamaro from Salento and an IGT Valpolicella using an "innovative" ripasso method.

Crafted from the Negramaro grape in Italy's Salento appellation, the aromatic 2003 Tormaresca Masseria Maime burst forth with dark cherries, leather and black tea, meaty earthy notes, some rose petal. But the haunting nose did not fulfill its promise on the palate - powerful, crisp and dry, with a neat slatey/minerally texture, but it became hot and unbalanced as the evening wore on. Perhaps a minimal decant would be more appropriate? Anyway, a rustic, interesting, pour, but that's a hefty price tag.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$34.25 (SAQ)

A classic Valpolicella blend of corvina and rondinella, with a touch of sangiovese, the 2004 Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre was cherry candy on the nose, adding some vanilla, coffee and a hint of tar. Luscious, but not flabby on the palate, with velvety tannins and a nice long finish, and unlike the wine above it improved in the decanter. The Palazzo Della Torre is a consistently reliable bottle at a decent price, and always has a home in my cellar.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$27.70 (SAQ)

So, the initial excitement for the negroamaro faded over the evening, while the cherry candy nose on the Allegrini was misleading. For a cheaper (maybe even better) negroamaro I highly recommend the Taurino Notarpanaro. Both paired well with a Greek-styled lamb stew, but the negroamaro worked a bit better in this role.

Twelve Under $12: Bistro Mundo Espagne

Trolling the bargain bins for $12 wine, it was only a matter of time before I grabbed a box wine. Actually, I had no intention of tasting a box wine, but a reader of mine, Fadi, recommended this cheap Spanish pour. The non-vintage Bistro Mundo Espagne is made from tempranillo, and featured dark berry fruit, vanilla, and some oaky spiciness on the nose. On the palate this New World-styled wine was juicy and balanced, featuring a nice (and surprising) presence of tannins and some finish, but very little acidity. A tad artificial, but with no rough edges it was surprisingly nice. Keep a box in the fridge for cooking, and feel free to grab a sip when you are not up to opening a bottle. And with a lower carbon footprint than bottled wine, you can feel good about saving the planet.
1L box. 13% alcohol
Score: 13.5/20
Price: ~C$11

Note: Bistro Mundo is a series of Tetra Pak box wines sold at grocery stores in Quebec, featuring red and white wines from France, Argentina, Italy, and Spain. The boxes look very similar, so make sure you read the label before throwing it into the cart. It is also important to note that not every box is the same - this is non-vintage, so I have no idea if I buy a box in six months if it will taste the same - I have not always had the same experience with this one.

So far I have been amazed by my tasting group's silence. When I started on this $12 adventure I expected a deluge of ridicule from this gang of wine snobs - perhaps the shock has yet to wear off? Surely a BOX WINE will elicit a few emails from the gang...

Twelve Under $12: 2005 Marques de Marialva Reservera Tinto

A common theme for my Twelve under $12 has been a return to the familiar - random acts of wine buying result in too many bad surprises, so my fear is heightened in the $12 aisle. Tonight's selection follows a familiar path, as I have enjoyed a prior vintage at the recommendation of Malcolm Anderson, the former wine writer for The Gazette.

The red 2005 Marquês de Marialva Reserva comes from Portugal's Bairrada appellation. Light cherry red in the glass, an unexpectedly terrific nose of spicy oak and vanilla, black earth and truffles leapt out of the glass. Simple, crisp and light bodied on the palate with decent fruit - a "Bojo meets Rioja" treat. Probably the best wine I have ever tasted at this price point, and a wine that should pair easily with lighter or heavier meat dishes.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 15.5/20
Price: $10.95 (SAQ)

To quote my wife: "These have been really decent wines this week and there is no point in spending more on everyday wines." 'Nuff said

New York, New York (2)

A highlight of our NYC adventure was a simple table wine at Patsy's Pizza. The 2004 Avignonesi Rosso is a blend of Prugnolo (40%), Cab Sauv (30%) and Merlot (30%), and just $24 on the restaurant menu. Dark cherry red in the glass, this vino di tavola was simple - smokey and cedar-ey, like a campfire, with meat, tobacco, pepper and dark cherries on the nose. Big and flavourful on the palate, with nice cooked fruit, acidity and tannins, it was balanced and interesting. An honest effort at this price, and a great match for a calzone with romano and prosciutto. Patsy's - great pizza, kid friendly, conveniently located near FAO Schwartz, and great prices on cheap wine.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 15/20
Price: $24 (menu)

I love visiting NYC at this time of year, and despite three kids in tow we managed a few good wine moments. I even liberated a few bottles of Bella from Rob's "cellar" - mmmm - wait for it!

2003 Ramitello

I love Italian wine. Even when the wines are awkward or off balance, they are always so...intriguing, intellectually satisfying. I find them more of a secret pleasure, as their quirky and unusual flavours make them hard to serve to wine 'newbies', especially when going 'off the beaten path' from Valpolicella or Chianti. We can safely call tonight's 'Biferno Rosso' an Italian off the beaten path...

The 2003 Ramitello is by Di Majo Norante, the producer of some of Italy's greatest wine values. An unsual blend of 80% Prugnolo and 20% Aglianico, this cherry red wine had a complex and multi-layered nose. Lovely scents of cherry blossom, blackberry, oak and wet stones intermingled with flinty/smokey and meaty aromas. Very well balanced, medium-bodied, with tongue-puckering dry, velvety tannins and summer berry fruit, this was a very attractive package. Not a long finish, this complex and interesting wine is ready for drinking now. Enjoyable on its own or a terrific pairing with pasta, especially tonight's veal cannelloni.
13.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$18 (SAQ)

Note: I reviewed the 2000 Ramitello in February - the 2003 was marginally better, and very approachable considering its youth.

2000 Chateau Montus Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec

Tomorrow our tasting group will host a big, bad, Aussie Shiraz night, so I had to go with a white wine this evening. Fortunately, my wife chose a filet of sole in a delicate orange sauce to pair with my wine choice.

My love of all things Montus is well documented on this site, so it was reasonable to expect that I might buy their white wine someday. The 2000 Chateau Montus Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec (say that five times fast) is a white wine from the obscure Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh appelation. As far as I can tell, this wine is made from the petit manseng and gros manseng grapes, but information is sketchy.

An attractive bright amber colour, the first scents on the nose were of minerals and oak, but later followed with some green apple, orange, toast, green olives and smoke. Based on my first whiff, I thought this would be a buttery new world chardonnay, but it was definitely not - minerally, with good acidity and great balance, it had a softness that I presume came from its bottle age. While quite high in alcohol, it was not obtrusive, but certainly gave me quite the buzz! To compare it to other whites, I think the closest resemblance might be a Chablis? Anyway, an excellent match for the fish, and a very interesting and attractive "off-the-beaten-path" white.
14.3% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Cost: C$24 (SAQ)

2005 Petalos

My first few years of wine buying, collecting, tasting and drinking have been focused on breadth - tasting as many different types of grapes, regions, wineries, and vintages as possible. While I am no stranger to Spain, I have never had a red wine from the region of Bierzo, a wine made from the Mencía grape. How cool is that? I was giddy with anticipation.

For some background, the Spanish government's Wines from Spain website says that Bierzo only acheived its D.O. status in 1985, and in 1988 began making wines exclusively from local grapes. The Mencía grape was brought into the region in the Middle Ages by religious pilgrims, and appears to be related to Cabernet Franc. You can also see the U.S. importer's site for some more information.

The 2005 Pétalos comes from the winery Descendientes de J. Palacios - some of you may recognize the name Palacios of Priorat fame (there is a relationship). A deep, tooth-staining, beautiful purple hue, this wine is obviously in its youth. On the nose this wine was gamey and meaty up front, but a plethora of aromas were liberated as the wine took in the oxygen - flowers, raspberries, earth, truffles, leather and spice, some mint. Gorgeous. On the palate it was medium- to full-bodied, with rich velvety tannins and nice acidity, ripe chocolatey fruit, and good balance. Terribly interesting, like a good Madiran or Pinotage, it seemed both modern and rustic at the same time. I was fascinated by this wine, and I would appreciate any comments on other Bierzo wines others have tasted. I think it will improve, but hard to say - I will wait a year or two before consuming my other bottle.

Score: 16/20
Cost: C$24
Alcohol: 14%
Mencía (grape)

2000 Ramitello

I have had a number of Di Majo Norante wines, and they are always impressive. Their Don Luigi is also one of my Top 50 Cellar Picks, but that wine is made from the Montepulciano grape.

The 2000 Ramitello is a red wine fashioned from an uncommon blend of the Prugnolo (80%) and Aglianico (20%) grapes. The nose starts with chocolate and liquorice, followed by black cherry, vanilla, and earthy/wild aromas - very complex, very interesting. On the palate this wine coats the tongue with rich dark fruit and velvety tannins, with a rustic edge that leads me to imagine what wine tasted like in ancient times. Surprising depth and complexity for such an inexpensive wine.

This is not a subtle wine, and may not go over well with everyone - I find rustic, earthy wines like this do not always click with tasters. A perfect pairing for a hearty winter roast or osso buco. Score: 16/20, a great value at C$19.

2005 Casillero del Diablo Carmenere

Almost immediately after tasting the Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon, Wine Spectator reviewed their Carmenere (naming it "Wine of the Week") and a fellow blogger reviewed their Malbec. With these inspirations I happened upon a bottle of the Carmenere while vacationing - for the lofty sum of C$12.45. At that price it was time to try my first Carmenere!

The 2005 Casillero del Diablo Carmenere was deep purple in colour. The nose was dominated by earthy/woodsy aromas, while underneath there were scents of pencil shavings, musk, cinnamon, tea, petrol (like a Riesling) and fresh cherries. Very different. On the palate it tasted like leather and bing cherries - dry, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins. It was crisp, reasonably balanced, with good acidity and persistency.

Very rustic and powerful, I enjoyed this wine, but I would be careful on who you serve this wine to - this will probably not go over well with casual wine drinkers. It may benefit from a year or two in the cellar, but it is ready now. A wine for stuffing in your backpack and pondering over that campfire with a wild boar roasting on a spit. Score 15.5/20.

PS - While interesting, the Cabernet Sauvignon is probably the better choice, but a neat way to try Carmenere for the first time.

2003 Esporao Reserva

Hmm - my first Portugese wine of 2007. Actually, my first Portugese wine since last August, and that was my first in a looong time. Perhaps I have a hard time going beyond Portugese port, or maybe it is the weak selection at the SAQ and limited reviews? Anyway, I hate buying wine blind, so it was good that this wine was a gift.

The 2003 Esporao Reserva starts off spicy, with scents of cloves and pepper, complemented by blackberries and musky scents. Nice, but simple. On the palate, the wine was very acidic and unbalanced right out of the cellar, but regained its footing as it warmed up to 'chambre'. A medium-bodied red, the wine had 'good' balance, with a soft texture hiding ample tannins. It is unfortunate that I opened this wine now, as it is young and I think it will get bettter. The Esporao would pair very well with a variety of dishes, and went nicely with a homemade pizza this evening. Score: 15.5/20, cost: gift.

2000 Palazzo della Torre

Ok, so the White went down a little TOO easy...

Which forced me to open up this Red for the nightcap. Normally I'm cheap with the nightcap, but this 2000 Allegrini "Palazzo della Torre" has been calling my name for weeks. This Veronese wine is made in the Ripassa method (using dried grapes, like Amarone) and uses traditional Veronese grapes (Corvina, Rondinella, some Sangiovese).

The nose was very nice, fruity and sweet, with prunes and strawberry/cherry aromas, mint, truffles, and leather. Pencil shavings? The alcohol was also quite notiecable on the nose, despite the label that claimed only 13.5% alcohol.

On the palate, this was a very animally, spicy wine. Full bodied with fresh acidity and supple tannins, this wine was very well balanced.

Despite the heavy fruit on the nose and the supple tannins, this was not a "wimpy" wine - this wine had very good length. Overall, a very interesting wine with power and finesse. "A cure for the common Cab" (or Sangiovese)

I think this wine would be an excellent match for lamb, steak, osso buco or even a meat lasagne.
13.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Cost: C$25