Two Takes on Mendoza: Norton Privada and Clos de los Siete

Digging though my cellar I noticed two takes on Medoza's 2005 vintage from two of the better winemakers - one, a modern-styled Malbec, the other a more traditional blended wine.

The 2005 Clos de Los Siete shows trademark Michel Rolland (a part owner in this project) - dark cocoa and black cherries on the nose, a strong dose of violet, some blueberry, black pepper, and flint. Soft and voluptuous on the palate, with dense velvety tannins and nice spicy, long finish. A nice wine, but a style I have moved away from over the years.
cork. 15% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$24 (SAQ)

I have to admit I was more excited about the 2005 Norton Privada, a blend of Cabernet, Malbec, and Merlot (typically the three grapes are nearly equal in the blend), simply because I knew what I was going to get with the Clos de Los Siete but with this I had no idea (it has been years since I had a Privada). Impressive, and quite different on the nose, with pipe tobacco, vanilla and white pepper, fresh blackberries, almondy and a hint of perfume. Spicy and crisp on the palate with terrific balance, a tremendous wine at this price point and certainly good for a few more years in the cellar.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$23.30 (SAQ)

A Beer to Celebrate 400 Years

Québec City celebrated its four hundredth anniversary in 2008 and for this special event Québec's renowned Unibroue (the "official brewer") crafted tonight's limited edition beer. Aptly named "Quatre-Centième", it showed a creamy, yeasty nose with some lemon and orange peel. The palate was simple and refreshing - citrus cream flavours with a sturdy texture and a fine mousse. Flawless, but less complex than my other Unibroue faves (1,2) - can I call this a New World Hoegaarden?

PS - the bottle shot comes from friendlier weather but the notes are fresh

"Drink less, drink better!" (Unibroue slogan)

2006 A et P de Villaine "Les Clous"

de Villaine's wines have a nasty habit of quickly disappearing from the local wine shops, so I greedily grabbed this bottle of "Les Clous" when I saw it. Unfortunately my praise for the 2006 is not as effusive as the praise expressed for both the 2001 and 2005:

The 2006 A et P de Villaine 'Les Clous' smelled of damp hay, cream, apple and pear, later showing some spearmint, lavender soap. Soft on the palate with creamy lemon, a gritty minerality, and a nice bitter finish. A touch hot and a little less complex than those prior vintages, but thoroughly enjoyable.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$28 (SAQ)

WBW #54: Pio Cesare, White and Red

I have been ignoring Italy for the past few months (not sure why) and I have not participated in WBW (I know why), but for the fifty-fourth WBW installment my wine buddy David McDuff is hosting and Piedmont is calling - how could I resist (especially when bonus points are served)?

I chose two wines from Pio Cesare, one of Piedmont's most renowned wine houses, for two reasons - consistent success, and it has been two years since I have tasted "A Peeedmont Chardonnayyy".

The 2001 Pio Cesare Barbera d'Alba "Fides" first showed its rubbery/inky/tarry side on the nose, later delivering lovely green pepper, cherry fruit, almonds and earthy, single malt scotch-like notes. Lovely texture - silky tannins and fresh acidity with a nice, spicy almond finish. Scored identically to last year, with similar tarry notes and a spicy mouthfeel, one of the nicest barberas I've ever had.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$33 (SAQ)

Yes, Piedmont chardonnay just sounds wrong, but I just focus on the liquid in the glass. The 2007 Pio Cesare l'Altro Piedmont Chardonnay had a promising nose - green grass at first, some soap, apple, floral and peach notes as well. Stoney and crisp on the palate, yet soft and oily as it warmed up. No faults here - a delicious, balanced chardonnay, just not "moving" me tonight...
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$23.25 (SAQ)

White and red from Piedmont, same winemaker, I can't wait to use those "McDuff Bonus Points". Cheers, David!

A Grand Tasting of California Cabernets

Looking back over the past few years of tastings it is hard to believe that I have been the "ringleader" for our wine group - I mean, I never EVER win these tastings. Remember the old saying "even a blind squirrel sometimes finds a nut"? Well, in our blinded tastings my wines have been road kill.

Well, that's not really true - my Cesare Ornato was the best at the November tasting - at least I thought so, but I was unblinded so my self-proclaimed victory was hollow. But tonight was extra special because it was the real deal - a blinded, head to head cab-fest featuring some truly legendary California wines...and I won!

Ranked 1st or 2nd by two-thirds of the tasters, the 2003 Cardinale (86% Cabernet, Merlot) was obviously chosen by a sophisticated oenophile with a superior palate. A subtle nose, quite closed at first, later opening to reveal beautifully balanced violet, black pepper, leather and blackberries. But the nose was a pretty accessory to an astonishing palate - nice dense fruit and a very fine, velvety, long, long finish. It didn't jump out at us so much as it crept up and enveloped the group with incredible complexity and finesse. Did I mention that I won? Score: 18.5/20

There was considerable enthusiasm for Ash's 2002 Heitz Cellar Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, (100% Cabernet, organic) Ash adding to his string of successes since rejoining our wine group last year. A more interesting nose than the Cardinale, with flinty eucalyptus, violets, currants and black cherries, but just a touch jammy at the end of the night which pushed it into second place for me. Delicate, classy, and showing some age on the palate, a beautiful wine. Score: 18.5/20

There was little separation amongst the top 3 wines, with Lloyd's 1997 Joseph Phelps Insignia (83% Cab, 14% Merlot, Petit Verdot) close behind the Cardinale and Heitz in the rankings. Black cherries and mushrooms on the nose, earthy/flinty notes as well, some mint - pretty, maybe simpler than some of the others. Very nicely balanced with a very, very long finish...elegance. Score: 18/20

Further back was Cam's 2003 Juslyn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain Estate (85% Cabernet, 8% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot, Petit Verdot). Quite different from the others, with a lovely meaty nose, wet stones as well, a touch jammy and hot as the night wore on. A nice lengthy, meaty finish on the palate. Score: 17.5/20

Tied for fifth and sixth were Pramod's 2001 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Cosme's 2004 Peter Michael "Les Pavots". I quite liked the Montelena (Score: 17.5/20) - rubbery liquorice, black earth and white pepper on the nose, crisp cherry fruit and silky tannins on the palate, just a shorter finish than the greats above pushing it down a notch for me, but I liked it more than most the gang (I always love Chateau Montelena). The surprising result for me was the near last place finish for the Peter Michael (Score: 17/20), as the "Les Pavots" consistently wins accolades. Gobs of ripe, dark fruit on the nose, vanilla and violets as well. A very nice, long finish with dense tannins, just too fruity and too jammy for our group.

Unfortunately Chris' 2003 Neal Family Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain Estate was corked - a shame, as there was such a nice velvety texture to the wine. I think each and every one of us has had a corker now.

So, if any of you start "Google-ing" these wines you will find that they are, for the most part, expensive and rare - a true who's who of California and a terrific flight to really get a sense of what it's like at the top ends of the price/quality spectra.

A terrific night! Many thanks to our hosts, Cosme and Rebecca (the tenderloin was a smashing idea).

Next up, IGT-fest!

2001 Grant Burge Shadrach Cabernet Sauvignon

Max, a former partner of mine, is the only Ausso-Franco-Canadian I know - a Québecois carrying an Aussie passport. So when Max gave me this Aussie wine for Christmas I assumed he had "inside knowledge". Whether or not this was true, it was a delicious wine...

The 2001 Grant Burge Shadrach Cabernet Sauvignon is a regional blend (60% Coonawarra fruit, 18% Barossa, 22% Adelaide Hills). An impressive nose that starts with herb (mint and basil) and vegetal notes, later some wet leather and tobacco...cassis, strawberry, violet and graphite...heavy oak, but it dissipated nicely...beautiful! The palate impresses with silky tannins and crisp fruit - a zingy natural acidity, a wine that is sparkling and alive. Delicious, lingering, and not showing any signs of age...still tasting great 5 hours later. My first wine from Grant Burge, certainly won't be the last. (sold out in Québec, a newer vintage is available at LCBO)
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: gift

Mini Vertical #9: 2002 vs. 2003 St. Clement Oroppas

My wine group's latest grand tasting featured a top flight of California Cabernet Sauvignon, but you'll have to whet your appetite with this more modest offering, another blinded "mini-vertical" from my cellar.

On my left was the 2003 St. Clement Oroppas. With spicy dark berries, black pepper and violet...a riper, jammier nose than the '02 below. Very smooth and tasty, but softer and jammier on the palate as well. Enjoyable, just less structured and less complex. Drink now.
Score: 16.5/20

On my right was the more interesting 2002 St. Clement Oroppas - peppery, with vegetal notes, damp black earth, vanilla, violets and tobacco. Soft, dense fruit, also a modern-styled effort but retaining a vibrancy - decent acidity and classy tannins holding this all together. A very long finish, this is a youthful cab that should spend a few more years in your cellar.
Score: 17.5/20

I have nothing but praise for St. Clement's wines - in a sea of overpriced underachievers, these wines are amongst Napa's best values at all price points. Save your money on those cult California Cabs - Oroppas kicks many of those, just US$55 at the winery door.

PS - a special thanks to Pramod, who put me on to St. Clement in the first place.

The Lost Files: 2000 Avignonesi Desiderio

The "Lost Files" are those pictures of wine bottles on my hard drive that have no associated tasting note. But in this case my notes were unearthed while cleaning out my bedside table drawer - such a beautiful wine that I couldn't resist posting this, spring bottle shot (opened on Mother's Day last May) and all.

My notes on the 2000 Avignonesi Desiderio (85% Merlot, rest Cabernet Sauvignon) describe a complex nose of dark cherry and peppery plums, minty espresso beans, cherry blossom, black earth, liquorice and tar - lots going on here. On the palate it was terribly awkward at first - a powerful, robust and flavourful wine featuring dense tannins, good fruit and acidity, but it took four hours in the decanter to settle down and come together - but when it did, WOW. This is a wine that has the stuffing to go the distance - very sorry I opened it so young.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: ~C$80 (LCBO)

PS: despite its youth, this wine was a winner at a group tasting nearly four years ago. At that time I recommended "drink now" but that is clearly wrong - it may work after a long decant, but you really should set this aside.

2002 Chateau de Chambrun

The Lalande-de-Pomerol appellation is overshadowed by its more famous neighbour, Pomerol. Even Wikipedia has an empty page for the appellation, meriting a simple footnote in the Pomerol entry: "The next-door and slightly larger "satellite" appellation of Lalande-de-Pomerol produces similar but simpler wines, which are less long lived and more affordable."

While this may be true, the wines of Chateau de Chambrun are considered to be amongst the stars of this appellation, and are neither simple nor "affordable"...

Welcoming green tannins and cedary tobacco notes on the nose of the 2002 Château de Chambrun (Lalande-de-Pomerol), later releasing rose petal and bing cherry notes, some fresh earthy/flinty aromas, basil and vegetal notes as well. Nicely textured on the palate, but the firm tannins, fresh acidity and light fruit don't fully come together - a touch austere, maybe how Bordeaux used to be (or a reflection of the '02 vintage)...
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: ~C$77 (Opimian)

PS - first tasted here in the early days of Joe's Wine.

It gives me great joy...

In August I announced my final push for membership in the Century Club, a glorious organization devoted to obscure wine varietals. I just received a scroll announcing my membership - it will be framed and placed in an appropriately important place in my home.

Cheers to all of my fellow Wine Century Club members!

2004 Chateau St. Thomas

A fellow Montrealer, Fadi, connects with me once in a while. Recently, in response to my post on the Chateau Kefraya "Comte de M", he suggested another pricey Lebanese wine:

The 2004 Chateau St. Thomas starts with leathery, black earth and ripe, dark cherries (rather characteristic for the Lebanese wines I have tasted), but remained closed for some time. A healthy dose of oxygen liberated some additional aromas later that evening: gamey meat, violets and fresh cut wild flowers, some compote and pencil shavings - very compelling. Heavy on the palate at first, very dense dark fruit with nice, green tannins and very long finish that hints at further development (but drinking well now). One sentence? Kinda like someone poured a ripe vintage Northern Rhone into my Bordeaux. Those "medals" adorning the bottle seem well-deserved -very impressive, thanks Fadi.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$24.20 (SAQ)

Endnote: my wife has a four point rating system for wine:

(1) "Oh, I don't like this"
(2) No comment
(3) "Yes" (when prompted "do you like this?"), and
(4) "Oooooh, I LIKE this..." (unprompted)

Based on this we have a four-pointer tonight.

Stockin' the New Cellar: Joe's Top 50 Cellar Picks

(photo: inside the Steltzner cellars)

I prefer not to "recycle" old posts, but once a year I like to update my Top 50 Cellar Picks: cellar-worthy reds priced from C$20-40. The rationale is detailed in my original post below, with this update of a top page on my site is to reflect new successes, as well as disappointments with previous picks.

Here's the original post (1/22/07) followed by my updated picks:

For Christmas, my good friend Eden received from his (perfect) wife some wine racks to start collecting. To put this new storage to work, he requested my "Top 50" list of wines, priced from C$20- C$40, for cellaring. Fifty wines is very ambitious, but I'll take stab at it! Sorry for the lenghty post...

In considering this request, I had to work within the following parameters:

• Red wine only - He does not drink white wine (philistine!), so no need to bother there.


• Cellar worthy - They should be wines that may benefit with age, or at least have a few years of cellaring in them.


• Availability - These should not be rare/difficult to find offerings.


• Vintages - A winery that seems to perform reasonably well over a variety of vintage conditions.


• Balance - While he has a clear preference for Aussie Shiraz, I felt he needed to expand the collection to cover some old world wines as well.


• Previously tasted - No recommendations from books, just stuff I know.

Here were my suggestions, grouped by region:

With Bordeaux prices rocketing, it is not the easiest region for "values", but I have a few ideas in the target price range:

1. Chateau Pibran (Pauillac) - Classic Bordeaux, good year in and year out.
2. Chateau Croix-Mouton (Superieur) - by Jean-Phillipe Janoueix, the name was changed to "Croix-Mouton" (from "Mouton") due to a legal dispute with the 'other' Mouton in Bordeaux...
3. Chateau Potensac (Medoc) - Another classic Bordeaux
4. Chateau Clarke (Cru Bourgeois) - Probably a touch more modern as of late, but nicely made.
5. Chateau Pipeau (St-Emilion) - Is it possible to get a good St-Emilion in this price range? Yes!

The Rhone is host to numerous great values, and an excellent way to draw my friend out of the safety of Australia and into the "Old World". Here are just a few:

1. Chateau Signac "Cuvee Terra Amata" (Cotes du Rhone) - Big, brawny modern-styled Rhone, a great value
2. Domaine du Vieux Lazaret (Chateauneuf du Pape) - At the high end of the assigned price range, but a tremendous CdP that shames some at twice the price.

While the wines of the Southwest are not widely known, the following estates appear widely available and make compelling, age-worthy wines:

1. Chateau Montus (Madiran) - Tremendous, age-worthy wines made from the Tannat grape by the talented Alain Brumont
2. Chateau Bouscasse/Vielles Vignes (Madiran) - More Tannat, Alain Brumont
3. Chateau Lagrezette (Cahors) - A French take on Malbec, various cuvees exist, very nice and age-worthy.

I could probably fill the list with Languedoc-Rousillon wines, but here is a sampling. I especially like the wines of Pic St-Loup:

1. Chateau Lancyre "Grande Cuvee" (Pic St-Loup) - Well made Grenache/Syrah
2. Chateau Cazeneuve "Le Roc des Mates" (Pic St-Loup) - Deep, rich and complex
   

I dove into the Loire this past year, and found two wines that fit the theme:

1. Charles Joguet "Clos du Chene Vert" (Chinon) - beautiful expression of Cab Franc
   
2. Charles Joguet "Clos de la Dioterie" (Chinon) - beautiful expression of Cab Franc

The reds of Burgundy are difficult to fit into this post, mainly due to "availability" (and hefty prices), but here are a few. I don't do the region justice - check out Brooklynguy for a deeper dive into Burgundy.

1. A et P de Villaine "Les Montots" (Mercurey) - perhaps a touch more challenging to locate than most on this list, but can be found and is a nice price for good Burgundy
   
2. Nicolas Potel Santenay Vielles Vignes - a lovely Burgundy at this price point
   

Broadly speaking, Spain is filled with values, but the key is consistent availability. I would point to:

1. Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva (Rioja) - Great steak wine
2. Hacienda Monasterio Crianza (Ribera del Duero) - You must try this, fantastic
3. Sierra Cantabria (Rioja) - Multiple cuvees, all excellent values
4. Muga (Rioja) - Very nice take on Rioja and widely available
5. Quinta da Quietud (Toro) - Availability may be a challenge, but a must have

I couldn't possible forget about Italy. I could probably find 50 wines easily that would be great for the cellar, but pricing can sometimes be high. Here are a few selections:

1. Clerico "Trevigne" Barbera D'Alba (Piedmont) - Surprising complexity for Barbera
2. Fonterutoli Chianti Classico (Tuscany) - Great consistency across vintages, ageworthy
   
3. Castello Banfi "Colvecchio" (Tuscany) - A Tuscan Syrah? Absolutely.
4. Capezzana "Ghiaie Della Furba" - A super "Super Tuscan" at a more reasonable price point
   
5. Belguardo Poggio Bronzone (Morellino di Scansano) - Nice consistency
6. Di Majo Norante "Don Luigi" (Molise) - How many ways can I express my love for this wine? Simply awesome - if this list were rank order I would consider it near the top.
7. Taurino "Notarpanaro" (Puglia) - Obscure grape (negroamaro) from an obscure region, excellent wine.
8. Planeta Syrah (Sicily) - From Sicily. A nice, but different, take on Syrah.
9. Allegrini "Palazzo della Torre" (Veneto) - Complex, interesting, balanced, reat value
10. Allegrini "La Grola" (Veneto) - Ditto

Australia seems to be a go-to region for great values. Here are some suggestions:

1. Penfold’s Bin 389 - Cab/Shiraz, while not cheap it fits in the range. A classic.
2. Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon - my only Margaret River selection, very Bordeaux like, aging well.
   
3. D'Arenberg "The Lauging Magpie" - A compelling wine for the price, nice year to year consistency.
4. Elderton Barossa Shiraz - An excellent wine, seeking a more restrained "French" take on Aussie shiraz
5. Rosemount GSM - I would have put the D'Arenberg Ironstone Pressings here, but the price is above my $40 limit...a nice GSM and widely available
   
6. Greg Norman Cabernet Merlot - This has the stuffing to put away for a few years.
7. Yalumba "The Signature" Cabernet Shiraz - Consistently good, with aging potential.

Chile should be a good source of inexpensive reds, but I haven't tasted that many. Here are two:

1. Montes Alpha Merlot - This would blow Miles away...
2. Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre (Cab or Merlot) - powerful, complex New World takes on Bordeaux
   

I would be remiss if I didn't mention Argentina:

1. Altos Las Hormigas Reserva - Widely available, very nice
2. Catena Cabernet Sauvignon - The regular cuvee is an excellent, structured take on this grape
3. Norton Privada - Prices have moved up from below $20 to above $20, but still a great wine

Two South Africans, including a Pinotage:

1. Kanonkop Pinotage - meant for aging, very interesting wine, not for everyone
2. Meerlust Rubicon - a classically styled Claret, with a hint of S. Africa
   

Unfortunately, a lot of the U.S. wines I could recommend are not widely available or come in outside the necessary price range. Here are a few California selections:

1. Napanook - Excellent second wine from the maker of Dominus
2. Ramey Claret - Nice Claret.
3. Justin Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - Good value
4. Cline Small Berry Mourvedre - Different, should age nicely
5. Unti Syrah - Terrific Syrah at this price point
   

Whew!

This post is not definitive, and I (and my friend) would love to hear any other suggestions you may have that fit the parameters above.

Cheers!

An Eclectic Flight of Wines and an Impromptu Tasting

My good friend Cosme suggested a Friday night get-together for a bottle of wine, but some frantic, last-minute, Blackberry Messenger exchanges led to a less intimate affair with about half of my wine group and four great bottles - a formal tasting without formality! How fun is that?

Last minute the gang scraped together a wonderfully eclectic set of wines:

1997 Drei Doná Tenuta la Palazza Graf Noir
2003 l'Ecole no. 41 Perigee
2003 Chateau Bernadotte
2006 Bouchard Pere et Fils Le Corton

I won't declare a "winner" tonight - my scores were nearly identical and these weren't really comparable, but here are some notes on a great evening of wine:

My 2003 l'Ecole no. 41 Perigee was first featured here in August of 2007 during American Wine Month. Definitely the softest, jammiest, wine of the evening, a wonderful nose of smokey currants, leather and violets, flinty cherries, cocoa and grenadine with some vegetal notes in the background. A big, heavy wine on the palate, earthy and minerally...definitely that ripe fruit I tasted 18 months ago, but a half point lower this time around. Score: 17.5/20

You can count on Lloyd to bring something aged and intriguing, so tonight's 1997 Drei Doná Tenuta la Palazza Graf Noir (55% Sangiovese, 30% Uva Longanesi, and Cabernet Franc) was par for the course. Musty on the nose, like the rind of brie cheese, it took a long time to open up but that patience was rewarded with some truffle-y mushroom, vegetal and floral notes. A joyous, velvety texture on the palate with great balance, a very long finish and decent acidity, but a bit too heavy with the oak for my taste. Blinded I thought aged Bordeaux at first, but with further development and some nudging from Lloyd I guessed Super Tuscan - who would have guessed "Super Emilia-Romagna"? Score: 17.5/20

And you can count on Cosme to bring a Burgundy. The nose of the 2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Le Corton Grand Cru was subtle, but the spicy (musk and cloves) and oaky notes dominate, some fresh rasberries, vanilla and leather supporting. Soft, smooth and luscious with good minerality, modest acidity and a decent finish - not as tightly wound as I like my Burgundies, but I suspect this would be a crowd pleaser. Hard to believe this is the same wine as the 2002 I raved about. My take? This is closed down and needs a few years in the cellar. Score: 17/20.

My apologies to Chris, but his 2003 Chateau Bernadotte arrived freezing cold out of the cellar so we set it aside for a while - by the time we got to it I was done taking notes! From memory it was reminiscent of my comments on the 2003 Vintage in Bordeaux - very drinkable today, with classic dense, woodsy tannins and ripe fruit.

It is really hard to compare and contrast such different wines, but what I can say is that the Graf Noir generated the most enthusiasm and conversation (how often do you drink Uva Longanesi?). I loved it, but I was a bit put off by the heavy oak (same for Le Corton). But these comments are secondary to the thrill of sharing some odd wines and wonderful companionship - sometimes the best tastings are unplanned and unstructured!

Cloud 9 Liquors

A recent business flight routed me through Calgary, where I noticed that the Cloud 9 Liquor & Wine Store has reopened. Now there is nothing novel about a Duty Free shop in an Airport, but Cloud 9 is not a Duty Free shop - it is a shop for Canadians to engage in a little "inter-provincial tax arbitrage".

You see Alberta is Canada's oil province, and its lower taxes (and no government-run liquor monopoly) are evident in lower wine and spirits prices, for the most part. Calgarians laugh at me, saying Cloud 9 is way more expensive than other local shops, but they miss the point - with prices for many products up to 20% lower than those at home, out-of-province travelers don't have time to drive around town for an extra 5%.

Cloud 9 used to exist just behind the check in (but before security) and proudly advertised its prices vs. those for BC Liquors and LCBO. But then the 2006 terrorist plot ended air travelers' ability to carry-on wine (which really pissed me off) and Cloud 9 closed.

Now I haven't been to Calgary in a long time, so I don't know when it reopened, but it has reopend behind security. That's right - check your bags, clear security, pick up a Starbucks and do a little liquor shopping. And since you are past security you can carry it onto the plane.

Does Cloud 9 have a dizzying array of wine? No, but it is pretty good. Is it always cheaper than SAQ or LCBO? No, not always. But there are many deals to be had (especially single-malt scotch).

I couldn't pick up a bottle this time as I was on an outbound flight with a short connection, but I do recommend that out-of-province travelers waiting for a flight in Calgary stop by and pick up a bargain.

Cheers!

Chile vs. Australia: 2002 Elderton Ashmead and Don Melchor

I love blinded wine tastings when they are most like a scientific experiment, controlling as many variables as possible for a deep palate-learning experience. Tonight we have two New World Cabernets with the same amount of age (2002 Southern Hemisphere), but separated by the vast Pacific. A perfect experiment would have the same winemaker on both wines, but tonight terroir and wine making blend together to create different results:

It is no secret that I love Elderton's wines, but most of those have been Shiraz. Tonight we tasted their high-end Cabernet Sauvignon offering, the 2002 Elderton Ashmead. An absolutely gorgeous nose - leafy tobacco, violet and blackberries at first, then some earthiness, wet stones, toasty oak and a wallop of Barossa fruit - some nice evolution over the evening. A palate of ripe, juicy fruit, terrific balance, and a lengthy finish, a well-made, classic New World cab. Smoother, softer and fruitier than the Chilean below, you could drink this now but I will keep my other bottle for a few more years.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$69 (LCBO)

One of Chile's most celebrated wines is Concha y Toro's Don Melchor. The first whiff of the 2002 Don Melchor hit me with a powerful dose of ripe, dark, peppery fruit (blackberry and cassis), which I thought Aussie, but that blew off to reveal a green, funky, earthiness and some raw, gamey meat and classic violet notes. Spicy and fresh, I loved the velvety texture and meatiness that emerged over the evening, as well as the more restrained use of oak, but it was a touch more awkward on the palate than the Ashmead. But that awkwardness was sorting itself out over the evening and I wonder if these scores will reverse in a few years...
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$44.78 (SAQ)

Scores can be misleading, and although the depth and complexity of the Ashmead gave a slightly higher score I preferred the Chilean with a bacon-wrapped filet mignon. Now some might take issue with the very material $20 price difference, but that is misleading as the Don Melchor routinely commands higher prices these days (in line with the Ashmead).

Blinded, the three tasters had no trouble picking which was Aussie and which was Chilean, as the initial fruitiness of the Chilean dissipated and the peppery fruit of the Ashmead screamed Barossa.