Shiraz and Lamb

I love barbeque season - so many new recipes and wine:food matchups to try! After a few successful experiments, I have found Shiraz and BBQ Lamb to be a fabulous combo, and this evening the wine matches were spectatular! To serve with a boneless butterflied leg of lamb (Weber's Big Book of Grilling, pg. 195), I chose the two following wines:

2001 Chateau de Cazeneuve "Le Roc des Mates" Pic Saint-Loup (Languedoc, France)
2000 Elderton Barossa Shiraz (Aussie)

Ok, so I cheated on the Roc des Mates - it was 80% Syrah, 10% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre. Close enough. The Roc des Mates (the second Cazeneuve wine I have tasted) was sumptious and well balanced, with boutiful fruit, a good backbone, and velvety tannins. I suspect that this wine, the younger of the two, will get better, but it will be hard to wait! It was the favourite of my wife and our guests, but I was indifferent between it and the Elderton (in fact, it seemed the more 'Aussie' of the two). I highly recommend this wine. I paid approx. C$27, and I just ran out and bought the 2003 vintage.

On the Elderton, I have never been disappointed with the Elderton Shiraz, or any Elderton wine for that matter (the CSM is stunning). This wine was extremely elegant and well balanced, but (surprisingly) not as 'fruit-forward' as the French wine. I found the elegance of this wine made it a better foil for the lamb, while 'the Roc' was a better drinking wine. Note that this Elderton is now peaking, while 'the Roc' still has a few more years to go. I paid approx. C$29. I can't find this anywhere, but I will keep looking...

It should have ended there, but we had a friend drop by for wine after dinner, and we opened two more wines:

2001 Domaine Clavel "Les Garrigues" Coteaux du Languedoc
2000 Santa Duc "Les Garancieres" Gigondas

Overall, I was disappointed with the Gigondas - ratings of that wine are high, and it seemed a little unbalanced to my taste. The tannins were very firm - perhaps they will soften up over time - I will open my other bottle in two years. The Clavel was a great drinking wine, my last bottle of the 'Garrigues'. This is always a well-rated, inexpensive wine and worth seeking out.

2005 Elderton "Friends" Shiraz

As the price for Elderton's "Estate" Shiraz has moved up in price, Elderton's "Friends" bottling (using grapes from independent Barossa growers) has filled in as their entry-level wine. Yes, I'm a big fan of Elderton's wines, and this was another winner. The 2005 Elderton Friends Shiraz was a classic Barossa Shiraz: an expressive nose of violets, black earth and ripe berries at first, later adding musk, leather, pepper and flinty notes. A rich palate of ripe, dark fruit, while firm tannins and wet stones add structure and a lingering finish. Well done! 
screw top. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$19.95 (SAQ)

Mini Vertical #7: 2001 vs. 2004 Elderton Barossa Shiraz

Where the heck is Joe? Busy as heck with some big life changes, but still taking notes - will work through them eventually, like this Mini Vertical of Elderton.

Regular readers may recall I conducted a number of "Mini Verticals" earlier this year, spending more time thinking about the importance of vintage - it was a pleasure to get back into the vintage thing with some wines from one of my favourite Aussie wineries:

The nose of the 2001 Elderton Shiraz (Barossa) showed minty plums at first, later revealing pine tar and liquorice, violets and cherry jam, some smokey tobacco as well. Better structured on the palate than the '04 with more acid, less jam, nicer tannins, and a pleasingly long finish. An elegant Aussie shiraz worth cellaring for a few more years.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$28 (LCBO)

The 2004 Elderton Shiraz (Barossa) had a big nose of violets, dark berries, black earth, white pepper, coffee grounds and smoke. Beautifully textured with soft, velvety tannins - very smooth, but bigger and jammier, missing the complexity and structure of the '01. I was more complimentary last year, but perhaps the '01 and another year in the cellar gave this wine greater context tonight.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$29 (LCBO)

While these wines sport a higher price tag than many Aussie shirazes, these are better quality bottlings and highly recommended - for big fruit smoothness pick the '04, but for structure and elegance I recommend the '01.

2004 Elderton Barossa Shiraz

I have spoken highly of the Elderton winery here - in my great values piece, in my Top 50 cellar picks, and in various tasting notes. So it should be no surprise that tonight's 2004 Elderton Barossa Shiraz also comes with glowing notes.

Bright, deep purple in colour and highly aromatic, the nose was beautiful, interesting, and complex, evolving over the evening. Starting with wild, chocolatey fruit on the nose, this brute unveiled scents of big blackberry fruit, violets, pepper, cloves, leather, vanilla, chocolate and a lovely smokey smell.

Rich and thick, with chocolate and gobs of fresh fruit, it sported big tannins that pound on your palate, but were balanced by nice acidity. A very long finish, this is a surprising 'entry-level' Shiraz that demands some patience. Way too powerful for hamburgers off the grill, I suggest game, lamb or a wild animal you just killed with your bare hands. Vinuous infanticide, I say - decant first, but better to stick it in the cellar for 3 more years (at least...). If Elderton keeps making their Barossa this good, who is going to pony up for the Command? Obviously very New World in style, a caution for those seeking something more restrained. Close to an 18, but I think it will take a few years to sort it out for sure.
14% alcohol
Score: 17.5+/20 (will improve)
Price: C$29

Chile vs. Australia: 2002 Elderton Ashmead and Don Melchor

I love blinded wine tastings when they are most like a scientific experiment, controlling as many variables as possible for a deep palate-learning experience. Tonight we have two New World Cabernets with the same amount of age (2002 Southern Hemisphere), but separated by the vast Pacific. A perfect experiment would have the same winemaker on both wines, but tonight terroir and wine making blend together to create different results:

It is no secret that I love Elderton's wines, but most of those have been Shiraz. Tonight we tasted their high-end Cabernet Sauvignon offering, the 2002 Elderton Ashmead. An absolutely gorgeous nose - leafy tobacco, violet and blackberries at first, then some earthiness, wet stones, toasty oak and a wallop of Barossa fruit - some nice evolution over the evening. A palate of ripe, juicy fruit, terrific balance, and a lengthy finish, a well-made, classic New World cab. Smoother, softer and fruitier than the Chilean below, you could drink this now but I will keep my other bottle for a few more years.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$69 (LCBO)

One of Chile's most celebrated wines is Concha y Toro's Don Melchor. The first whiff of the 2002 Don Melchor hit me with a powerful dose of ripe, dark, peppery fruit (blackberry and cassis), which I thought Aussie, but that blew off to reveal a green, funky, earthiness and some raw, gamey meat and classic violet notes. Spicy and fresh, I loved the velvety texture and meatiness that emerged over the evening, as well as the more restrained use of oak, but it was a touch more awkward on the palate than the Ashmead. But that awkwardness was sorting itself out over the evening and I wonder if these scores will reverse in a few years...
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$44.78 (SAQ)

Scores can be misleading, and although the depth and complexity of the Ashmead gave a slightly higher score I preferred the Chilean with a bacon-wrapped filet mignon. Now some might take issue with the very material $20 price difference, but that is misleading as the Don Melchor routinely commands higher prices these days (in line with the Ashmead).

Blinded, the three tasters had no trouble picking which was Aussie and which was Chilean, as the initial fruitiness of the Chilean dissipated and the peppery fruit of the Ashmead screamed Barossa.

1999 Elderton CSM

It is a great feeling when you grab something from the cellar that has been sitting for a few years - the perfect day has arrived! Purchased in 2004, this lonely bottle of 1999 Elderton CSM (Cabernet, Shiraz, Merlot) was opened to celebrate...well, nothing actually, I just wanted to impress my in-laws. Big, black pepper and blueberry aromas, tarry flinty notes, a late greenness, cedar and a hint of violet. Crisp acid danced on the tongue and silky, woodsy tannins coat the palate and remain for minutes. Flavourful, reserved, and a judicious use of oak for a Barossa - a tragedy I didn't buy more of this.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$39.95 (LCBO)

PS - Elderton has changed the name of this offering to "Ode to Lorraine" in 2002.

Down Under in the Great White North

Despite the wide availability of Aussie Shiraz here in North America, our tasting group did not hold our first Aussie Shiraz tasting until last year. That evening featured a sommelier host, so this year's Oz night was our first using our blinded format for formal tastings. Unfortunately, a number of regulars (and devout Aussie wine lovers) were unable to attend, resulting in a very appropriate ratio of four bottles for five tasters.

We experienced dramatic price inflation vs. last years tasting, with the flight of wines as follows (in order of vintage):

1998 Henschke "Hill of Grace"
1998 Evans and Tate Redbrook Vineyard
2001 Elderton Command Shiraz
2003 Penfolds Magill Estate

First Place -1998 Henschke "Hill of Grace": I was shocked, amazed, and thankful that Cosme was willing to share this wine with us. One of Australia's most sought-after Shirazes, it instantly stood out from the crowd. The nose was very spicy and oaky, with more restrained fruitiness vs. the rest of the wines. It also displayed prominent coffee and cocoa aromas and constantly changed over the evening, with every whiff revealing a new, attractive and beguiling aroma. On the palate this wine was all about elegance - harmonius and awe-inspiring, with a restrained fruitiness. This would pair well with food, if you had any money left for food after you purchased the bottle. Drink now. Five first place rankings. 13.7% alcohol
My score: 19/20, cost: Very, very expensive. (RP-97, WS-93)

Second Place - 2001 Elderton Command: I brought the Command, probably the first time I have ever showed up for a tasting with a wine I have previously tasted. The wine first showed it spicy oak, but later showed some floral (violet), cherry, musk, coffee, smoke/flint, and tobacco. Very beautiful, very complex. On the palate it was rich, luxurious, and structured with leather, coffee and chocolate flavours. The finish was was extremely long. Some tasters thought it too fruity and for drinking now, but I disagree - this wine still needs time. Four seconds and one fourth place ranking. 15% alcohol
My score: 18.5/20 (identical to my Sept. 06 score), cost: C$79. (RP-95, WS-96)

Third Place - 1998 Evans and Tate Redbrook: Chris and M-L travelled to the west coast of Oz last year and brought back this wine with them (it is no longer commercially available). It was very different from the rest of the Aussies. A bit stale at first, but with some oxygen it began to show some nice but lighter, subtler aromas - peppery, with some violet, earth, undergrowth, coffee and some vegetal scents. The most 'old world' of the group, it was light-bodied with fresh acidity. Slightly more dilute and less balanced than the previous two wines, it was still great. Drink now. 14.5% alcohol
My score: 17.5/20, cost: C$90.

Fourth Place - 2003 Penfolds Magill Estate: Cam's Penfolds was great wine, but had two challenges to overcome - impressive competition and youth. Easily the fruitiest wine, I described the nose as over-the-top New World sweet, with caramel and nut aromas, a nose that some described as syrupy. On the palate it was fruity and well balanced, with a surprisingly short finish. This was not my style, and I found it a bit flabby. Can be drunk now, but could improve with a few more years in the bottle. 14.5% alcohol
My score: 16/20, cost: C$75. (RP-94, WS-90)

Warm up Wine: I lied about the four bottles - we managed to finish five bottles, as the host graciously served a 2003 Torbreck "The Steading" to prepare our palate for this momentous event. Scents of crushed cherries, leather, vanilla, and ginger. Very smokey, with nice complexity. A bit hot (14% alcohol), it was very soft and elegant on the palate, but rather one-dimensional and uncomplex. Drink now. Score 16.5/20.

Overall, Aussie Shiraz are often criticized as being too fruit forward, but only one or two of these wines really went there. The wines were elegant and complex, and really showed the greatness that Australia has acheived at the high end of the price range. I also believe that three of these wines would pair very well with food.

Given its second place ranking, the Elderton Command probably stands out as the value of the night, given the huge price differential vs. the other top 3 wines.

Next up: Tempranillo, at the end of April.

2002 Elderton The Ashmead Cabernet

I show a lot of love here for Elderton, so it was a bit of a no-brainer for me to pick up this 2002 Elderton "The Ashmead" Cabernet Sauvignon. Very Barossa - vanilla, cloves and tobacco on the nose, lots of fresh, ripe blackberries, violet and flint, spicy oak and green pepper. Incredibly soft and smooth on the palate, it started simple but filled out over the evening, offering spicy fruit and silky tannins. A beautiful, long finish, rather fresh for the age, but left me wanting something more...
Score: 17/20
Price: C$69 (SAQ)

2001 Elderton 'Command' Shiraz

Holy crap, I think I've died and gone to heaven! Un-freakin' believable! I could fill this tasting note with exclamation marks! What a great wine!

I have a few bottles of the 2001 Elderton Command Shiraz from Australia's Barossa valley. I was saving this wine for for a special occasion, and while the special occasion did not manifest itself in the way I had hoped for, I thought this wine should be the special occasion. And it was!

I was totally immersed in this wine's aromas - leading with coffee and cherry scents, and followed by a violet and other white flowers, blackberries, oak, butter and SPICY (pepper, cinnamon, cloves, vanilla). There were so many wonderful scents, and they developed and changed over the evening. I could picture myself in Starbucks with a "tall bold" and a pumpkin scone!

On the palate, this was the most 'viscous' wine I have ever tasted. This soft, thick, heavy, powerful wine coated my mouth with sweet glyerin fruit while big fat tannins pounded on the back of my tongue. "Liquid Gold". The finish was very long, seemingly infinite. While high in alcohol (15%) it was not obtrusive, everything was in good balance. While drinkable now, the tannins should soften up over the next few years. I will wait until 2010 before trying my other bottles.

Overall, this was a spectacular wine that paired very nicely with a roast beef dinner. While not cheap, I doubt you could find many better wines in this price range. This is definitely one of the best wines I have ever tasted.
15% alcohol
Score: 18.5+/20
Cost: C$79

PS-I have yet to have a bad Elderton wine. This winery produces great wines at all price levels! FYI - WS rated 96, RP rated 95

Vintages Sept. 15 Release

Ok, one more special release, this time for my Ontario friends. This week's Vintages (LCBO) release is focused on Ontario wine, which I cannot comment on, but there are two awesome finds that I highly recommend:

1) 2003 Chateau Septy (Monbazillac): One my SW France wine favourites, this dessert wine is a stunning value, and just $9.99 for a half bottle! Ontario residents lucky enough to get a bottle of this need never eat cake again!

2) 2004 Bodegas Castano Hecula (Yecla): This is one of THE best wine values in the world. You MUST buy this by the case.

Other wines to think about:

2005 Elderton Tanatalus: a favourite Aussie winery for me based on quality and consistency.

2004 Yalumba Shiraz/Viognier: A great new world shiraz, and a great value.

2004 Altesino Rosso: They make a great Brunello, in a traditional style. This is worth a try.

(PS - Eden, please buy me some of the Septy, Hecula!)

Great Values, Australia

Following on my Argentinian value selections, here are my five best wineries for inexpensive wines (below C$20) from Australia. These are not in order of preference although the Yalumba/D'Arenberg selections are the preferred. Note that these wines are widely available on restaurant menus, so are worth knowing.

D'Arenberg: While famous for some pricey offerings, D'Arenberg has a way of being amongst the best wines at every price point. The whites are great deals, the "D'Arry's Original" is a great value, and "The Footbolt" Shiraz is close to being the best value on the planet. Consistent year after year.

Elderton: Pushing my luck with this one, as their wines are typically priced above my C$20 cut-off, but their "Friends" line of wines are good values and should be found under the price cut.

Greg Norman: Ok, I'll admit that I have avoided his wines because I figured any golfer's wines are hype, not substance. I will also admit I was wrong. The wines are typically pushing against my price target, but should be available at that magic C$20. Look for the terrific Chardonnay and Cabernet-Merlot. I can't comment on his California stuff.

Penfold's: They make some good high-end stuff, but their Koonunga Hill range are great values, especially the Shiraz-Cabernet.

Yalumba: Their "Bush Vine" Grenache, Barossa Shiraz, and Shiraz+Viognier are amongst the best value reds on the planet, widely available, and consistent year after year. Their Eden Valley Viognier is one of the most interesting inexpensive whites I have ever tasted. And their expensive wines are pretty good too! It gets even better - their Y series wines are even cheaper, and even better values (I like the Y Merlot).

Cheers!

Joe's Wine - A Year in Review

Happy first birthday, Joe's Wine!

As you can see from my Blogger profile, I have been a member since May of 2006. While some of my posts go back to 2003, my first official 'new post' was last year’s Brunello tasting - everything before that was a retrospective data dump of old e-mails to my tasting group.

While originally intended as a repository of notes for my wine tasting group, I couldn’t resist expanding the scope and opening up to the public (See why I blog below). Now at one year old, an awkward toddler always struggling to find the right words, perhaps a few numbers can help review what has been accomplished in twelve months.

A Year in Numbers

Testing the limits of a human liver, I have published 135 posts over the past year, including:

• 112 tasting notes on 128 wines, including two WBW reviews
• 8 posts covering our Formal Tastings - blinded reviews of 40 of the world's most famous (and expensive) wines, as reviewed by our tasting group
• 5 posts covering travel to Napa Valley and Canada's Okanagan Valley
• Various other comments and tips, including shopping reviews from various travels

As some of you may have noticed, I value diversity in wine. To put it simply:

"Every wine has a perfect time, place, food pairing and person to share it with." - Joe

My cellar and my reviews reflect this. My score summary page is a spreadsheet snapshot of my tasting notes and scores from the past year, but just to highlight the range of wines in those 112 tasting notes:

• France: 40 wines, with less than half coming from Bordeaux, the Rhone and Burgundy - the other half were Languedoc, VdP, and weird appelations (i.e. 5 Madiran posts)
• Italy: 26 wines, equally split amongst Tuscany, Piedmont and the rest of Italy
• U.S.A.: 15 wines, predominantly Napa cab blends and Pinot Noir
• Australia: 15 wines, a decent selection of Shiraz, whites and other
• Spain: 11 wines, tempranillo dominated
• South America: 7 Chilean and 5 Argentinian wines, fairly diverse
• Other: 9 wines from New Zealand, South African, Austria, Germany and Canada
• Red vs. White: 28 Whites, vs. 100 Reds

Visitors

I added a statcounter into my blog in mid-September, and since that time it tells me I have had 6,115 visitors and 9,243 page loads. Approx. 6,000 visitors since January, when I really came out of my shell. The geographic diversity has been quite amazing - I have probably had visits from ~85-90% of the countries worldwide, with many surprises. Welcome to all!

Most Unbelievable Wines

For me, all were memorable in their own ways, but I should probably flag the following as freakin' unbelievable (in no particular order):

• 1998 Henschke "Hill of Grace", very elegant
• 2001 Elderton Command, powerful, complex, enjoyed twice
• 1990 Chateau Clinet, very cerebral
• 2002 Sea Smoke "Botella", best Pinot of the year
• 2001 Domaine Pegau "Cuvee Reserve", best CdP
• 1990 Chateau Montelena, awesome 17-year old Napa cab
• 1999 Ornellaia, there is a reason this is so expensive
• 2001 Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis, ahh, so this is what great Barolo tastes like

Honorable mentions go to:

• 1999 Hacienda Monasterio, amongst the world's greatest wines at under C$40
• 2005 Palacios Remondo Placet, best white of the year
• Greatest Value? Tough call, but it is probably the Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon

Drinking too much?

No need to worry, Edward, as I have relied extensively on the livers of my wife, family, dinner guests, and of course our tasting group, to help round out an extensive year of tasting.

Google AdSense?

I can't possibly figure out how this will be lucrative, and I have a day job that would require me disclose this, so I will stay "ad free" for now.

Resolutions for the Next Year

My blog is light on white wines overall, and I really need to cover more Burgundy wines, and add some Loire wines.

For travel, I will be visiting Champagne at the end of June, and Sonoma Valley in the fall.

And, while this will always be a blog focused on independent wine reviews, I will adding some wine commentary beyond the obligatory tasting notes. The 'Daily' quote will continue, and I will add an archive of older quotes.

I hope you enjoy, and stay around for year two - Cheers!

Vintages Release - November 10th

I haven't commented on a Vintages release since September, but today's release is the best I've seen in months. I only hope that this post is not too late!

For my Toronto and other Ontario friends, this week's Vintages release features "Burgundy's Miracle Vintage". While the 2005 Burg selection seems "ok", the rest of the offering has some gems. Here is a partial list of bottles from this offering that I recommend:

Large Format (1.5L)

The 2005 D'Arenberg D'Arry's Original and the 2004 Zenato Ripassa are long time favourites at Joe's and perfect for the upcoming holiday season - find two decanters! The 2004 D'Arenberg Dead Arm is a collector's item to put away for the 18th birthday of your child of same vintage.

Baby Bottles (375mL)

Half bottles are great to have around. The 2004 Zenato Ripassa is also available in small format, and you could get that mini-Tig (2004 Tignanello) for a special occasion. I would also check out the mini-sparklers on offer - the 2006 Nivole Moscato d'Asti is a great after dinner off-dry sparkler, and the Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut would be an inexpensive aperitif.

Other Great Ideas

2006 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec: a reliable malbec, just $14
2004 Elderton Shiraz: loved by Joe, see here
2006 Two Hands Gnarly Dudes Shiraz: great new world shiraz, it will sell out quickly

Experiment

2006 Ironstone Vineyards Obsession Symphony: Never heard of the "Symphony" grape, a cross of Muscat of Alexandria and Grenache Gris. That's a $15 experiment I would love to try.

Happy Shopping!

Guest Blogger: Aussie night in Canada

Tonight I welcome my good friend Lloyd, who is taking a load off my liver once again. I take Lloyd's Oz recommendations seriously - Lloyd was instrumental in building the Aussie corner of my cellar, which I believe is an enviable selection of 60-odd Oz collectibles. Here's a pair of recommendations that he (suspiciously) did not inform me of...

I’m an unabashed fan of Australian wines, and the two wines I opened for dinner with some good friends recently were a microcosm of what’s so good about Australia. Texas-Mesquite-rubbed chickens were on the grill with whole-roasted peppers and brown rice on the side, so I picked a GSM and a Shiraz for my Oz-oriented crowd, and didn’t miss with either.

The 2005 Kaesler Stonehorse GSM was spicy and full-bodied; not in-your-face, but hardly shy. It was an interesting match for hummus and spiced nuts, and gently oozed fruit and sweet chocolate that got better and better as cocktail hour stretched to 2+. Pepper on the nose and fine tannins seemed more Rhone than Barossa, but the sheer extract and good concentration of this one are decidedly Barossa. The alcohol is well-hidden behind the broad wall of fruit in here. Dark chocolate and cherry dominate with an interesting acidity and good length. This was a nice GSM at any price, but at under C$20, this represents a considerable value.

Of note, this is the first ever wine for me that was better the second day than the first. I’ve read and heard about this phenomenon it before, but thought it one of those urban myths. For the Stonehorse GSM, it’s the truth. A second bottle we opened but didn’t finish was notably smoother and rounder and slightly more concentrated and balanced after 24 hrs back under its screwtop. Clarissa did say she thought it was a bit too sweet on day two. The Stonehorse is widely available at the SAQ, and should be picked up at any sale for just over $20, a great value.
screwtop. 15.5% alcohol
Score: 17.25/20
Price: C$23.20 (less 10%)

The 2004 Turkey Flat Vineyards Shiraz Barossa was an incredibly pleasant surprise. The oak and licorice nose remind me of a favourite of mine (and Joe’s), the Elderton Command, but with a bit less concentration and aromatics. Coffee, cassis and plum round out the great nose that got better and better as the night went on. Full-bodied, round and broad – a mouthful of soft and wonderfully balanced red fruit and some blueberry and plum lead to a very long finish with some spice and very fine tannins that speak to potential for real longevity and improvement. Not quite the finesse of the Command, but impressive nonetheless at C$51 with a long life ahead of it. This was probably a bit early, but I bought a number of these and was too curious to wait.

This was the winner of the night and there was nothing left of the two bottles to test for next-day potential. The ’04 and ’05 Turkey Flat are available at SAQ and LCBO, and should be on the shopping list (especially for any upcoming sales). This wine was a great match for the rubbed chickens, but really came out (3 hrs+ post-decant) for the 85% dark chocolate for dessert.
cork. 15% alcohol
Score: 18.25/20
Price: C$51 (less 10%)

Together, these wines speak to the great combination of good Aussie wines – great taste, distinctive personalities, good-to-great value, early drink-ability with ageing potential and, in the spirit of most things Australian, good fun without taking itself too seriously!

Wines Good Enough for a 40-Year Old

Ok, so I left that post about turning forty on a bit long - so long that Barry is now accusing of milking this event. But what has really taken me so long is writing up so many notes on the various wines I drank to celebrate - thank God the festivities occur only once per decade...

For my birthday my wife secretly invited a group of friends out for dinner at Yoyo, and she even raided my cellar for an old Bordeaux (doesn't she know she's not allowed down there?). I cannot blame her, as she was only following the instructions of my good friend and occasional guest blogger Lloyd...

Actually, my 1994 Chateau Pontet-Canet (Pauillac) was already standing up in anticipation of this personal milestone, and did not disappoint. A big nose of mushrooms, green pepper and black earth ("Smells like the earth it was grown in", said my wife), minty and hints of creme brulee, later some fresh flowers (violet) and slate. Tremendous length and silky tannins, but with that crisp fruit and wonderfully fresh acid that modern Bordeaux seems to lack...some nuttiness and green olives at the end. Drinking very well after 3 hours in the glass, this could easily age for a few more years. Simply classic...
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 18.5/20

Ashkan has been on a streak lately, and his 2001 Condado de Haza Reserva Seleccion Roble Frances (Ribera del Duero) only added to his impressive wine CV. A delicious nose of cheese rind and blackberries, flint and flowers ... a palate of crisp, velvety tannins and a tremendously long finish ... a touch edgy, I wonder if some time in the cellar will sort this out?
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17.5+/20

Lloyd's 2001 Terra d'hom (Priorat) was pretty much what I expected from this region - gobs of ripe, dried raisiny fruit, black currants, and woodsy, smokey vanilla...surprisingly lighter bodied and better structured than the nose suggested - delicious velvety fruit, a great wine from a region I rarely have the opportunity to taste...
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20

The 2001 Elderton Command (Barossa) was the reason I ordered the lamb shank for a main course, and after 3 hours in the decanter it was ... mmm ... A brilliant nose of menthol and eucalyptus, cherry pits and wet stones, some classic violet notes ... ginger, flint, and smokey black cherry. Soft and silky on the palate, much more developed since my last taste...so smooth, so elegant, a very long finish of cherry fruit and unsweetened cocoa, but perhaps a bit more tired than I expected (1,2)...
cork. 15% alcohol
Score: 18/20

Thanks to my wife and friends - great food, great wine, great company ... no better way to spend my birthday... (unless it was the Brunello and Burgundy I had the next day)

Stockin' the New Cellar: Joe's Top 50 Cellar Picks

(photo: inside the Steltzner cellars)

I prefer not to "recycle" old posts, but once a year I like to update my Top 50 Cellar Picks: cellar-worthy reds priced from C$20-40. The rationale is detailed in my original post below, with this update of a top page on my site is to reflect new successes, as well as disappointments with previous picks.

Here's the original post (1/22/07) followed by my updated picks:

For Christmas, my good friend Eden received from his (perfect) wife some wine racks to start collecting. To put this new storage to work, he requested my "Top 50" list of wines, priced from C$20- C$40, for cellaring. Fifty wines is very ambitious, but I'll take stab at it! Sorry for the lenghty post...

In considering this request, I had to work within the following parameters:

• Red wine only - He does not drink white wine (philistine!), so no need to bother there.


• Cellar worthy - They should be wines that may benefit with age, or at least have a few years of cellaring in them.


• Availability - These should not be rare/difficult to find offerings.


• Vintages - A winery that seems to perform reasonably well over a variety of vintage conditions.


• Balance - While he has a clear preference for Aussie Shiraz, I felt he needed to expand the collection to cover some old world wines as well.


• Previously tasted - No recommendations from books, just stuff I know.

Here were my suggestions, grouped by region:

With Bordeaux prices rocketing, it is not the easiest region for "values", but I have a few ideas in the target price range:

1. Chateau Pibran (Pauillac) - Classic Bordeaux, good year in and year out.
2. Chateau Croix-Mouton (Superieur) - by Jean-Phillipe Janoueix, the name was changed to "Croix-Mouton" (from "Mouton") due to a legal dispute with the 'other' Mouton in Bordeaux...
3. Chateau Potensac (Medoc) - Another classic Bordeaux
4. Chateau Clarke (Cru Bourgeois) - Probably a touch more modern as of late, but nicely made.
5. Chateau Pipeau (St-Emilion) - Is it possible to get a good St-Emilion in this price range? Yes!

The Rhone is host to numerous great values, and an excellent way to draw my friend out of the safety of Australia and into the "Old World". Here are just a few:

1. Chateau Signac "Cuvee Terra Amata" (Cotes du Rhone) - Big, brawny modern-styled Rhone, a great value
2. Domaine du Vieux Lazaret (Chateauneuf du Pape) - At the high end of the assigned price range, but a tremendous CdP that shames some at twice the price.

While the wines of the Southwest are not widely known, the following estates appear widely available and make compelling, age-worthy wines:

1. Chateau Montus (Madiran) - Tremendous, age-worthy wines made from the Tannat grape by the talented Alain Brumont
2. Chateau Bouscasse/Vielles Vignes (Madiran) - More Tannat, Alain Brumont
3. Chateau Lagrezette (Cahors) - A French take on Malbec, various cuvees exist, very nice and age-worthy.

I could probably fill the list with Languedoc-Rousillon wines, but here is a sampling. I especially like the wines of Pic St-Loup:

1. Chateau Lancyre "Grande Cuvee" (Pic St-Loup) - Well made Grenache/Syrah
2. Chateau Cazeneuve "Le Roc des Mates" (Pic St-Loup) - Deep, rich and complex
   

I dove into the Loire this past year, and found two wines that fit the theme:

1. Charles Joguet "Clos du Chene Vert" (Chinon) - beautiful expression of Cab Franc
   
2. Charles Joguet "Clos de la Dioterie" (Chinon) - beautiful expression of Cab Franc

The reds of Burgundy are difficult to fit into this post, mainly due to "availability" (and hefty prices), but here are a few. I don't do the region justice - check out Brooklynguy for a deeper dive into Burgundy.

1. A et P de Villaine "Les Montots" (Mercurey) - perhaps a touch more challenging to locate than most on this list, but can be found and is a nice price for good Burgundy
   
2. Nicolas Potel Santenay Vielles Vignes - a lovely Burgundy at this price point
   

Broadly speaking, Spain is filled with values, but the key is consistent availability. I would point to:

1. Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva (Rioja) - Great steak wine
2. Hacienda Monasterio Crianza (Ribera del Duero) - You must try this, fantastic
3. Sierra Cantabria (Rioja) - Multiple cuvees, all excellent values
4. Muga (Rioja) - Very nice take on Rioja and widely available
5. Quinta da Quietud (Toro) - Availability may be a challenge, but a must have

I couldn't possible forget about Italy. I could probably find 50 wines easily that would be great for the cellar, but pricing can sometimes be high. Here are a few selections:

1. Clerico "Trevigne" Barbera D'Alba (Piedmont) - Surprising complexity for Barbera
2. Fonterutoli Chianti Classico (Tuscany) - Great consistency across vintages, ageworthy
   
3. Castello Banfi "Colvecchio" (Tuscany) - A Tuscan Syrah? Absolutely.
4. Capezzana "Ghiaie Della Furba" - A super "Super Tuscan" at a more reasonable price point
   
5. Belguardo Poggio Bronzone (Morellino di Scansano) - Nice consistency
6. Di Majo Norante "Don Luigi" (Molise) - How many ways can I express my love for this wine? Simply awesome - if this list were rank order I would consider it near the top.
7. Taurino "Notarpanaro" (Puglia) - Obscure grape (negroamaro) from an obscure region, excellent wine.
8. Planeta Syrah (Sicily) - From Sicily. A nice, but different, take on Syrah.
9. Allegrini "Palazzo della Torre" (Veneto) - Complex, interesting, balanced, reat value
10. Allegrini "La Grola" (Veneto) - Ditto

Australia seems to be a go-to region for great values. Here are some suggestions:

1. Penfold’s Bin 389 - Cab/Shiraz, while not cheap it fits in the range. A classic.
2. Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon - my only Margaret River selection, very Bordeaux like, aging well.
   
3. D'Arenberg "The Lauging Magpie" - A compelling wine for the price, nice year to year consistency.
4. Elderton Barossa Shiraz - An excellent wine, seeking a more restrained "French" take on Aussie shiraz
5. Rosemount GSM - I would have put the D'Arenberg Ironstone Pressings here, but the price is above my $40 limit...a nice GSM and widely available
   
6. Greg Norman Cabernet Merlot - This has the stuffing to put away for a few years.
7. Yalumba "The Signature" Cabernet Shiraz - Consistently good, with aging potential.

Chile should be a good source of inexpensive reds, but I haven't tasted that many. Here are two:

1. Montes Alpha Merlot - This would blow Miles away...
2. Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre (Cab or Merlot) - powerful, complex New World takes on Bordeaux
   

I would be remiss if I didn't mention Argentina:

1. Altos Las Hormigas Reserva - Widely available, very nice
2. Catena Cabernet Sauvignon - The regular cuvee is an excellent, structured take on this grape
3. Norton Privada - Prices have moved up from below $20 to above $20, but still a great wine

Two South Africans, including a Pinotage:

1. Kanonkop Pinotage - meant for aging, very interesting wine, not for everyone
2. Meerlust Rubicon - a classically styled Claret, with a hint of S. Africa
   

Unfortunately, a lot of the U.S. wines I could recommend are not widely available or come in outside the necessary price range. Here are a few California selections:

1. Napanook - Excellent second wine from the maker of Dominus
2. Ramey Claret - Nice Claret.
3. Justin Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - Good value
4. Cline Small Berry Mourvedre - Different, should age nicely
5. Unti Syrah - Terrific Syrah at this price point
   

Whew!

This post is not definitive, and I (and my friend) would love to hear any other suggestions you may have that fit the parameters above.

Cheers!