Friday, April 25, 2008

Red Wine from "Other" France

Cam hosted our third "Boys Only" (previous 1,2) formal tasting with an "Other France" theme - red wine from France, but no Rhone, Burgundy or Bordeaux. You would think that the creative juices would be flowing but it was a Languedoc-heavy night, featuring two from Pic St-Loup and one from Corbieres. I brought the only Loire red, nothing from Southwest France...too bad.

The crowd favourite was the host's 2004 Ollieux Romanis Cuvee Or (30% carignan/30% grenache/30% mourvedre/10% syrah), a wine Cam picked up at the Salon des Vins. Dark chocolate and leathery dark blackberries on the nose, some vanilla and oak as well. So elegant on the palate - very smooth, soft and juicy, but this modern-styled wine had a very short finish and was lacking in complexity vs. the others - my third place wine.
14% alcohol, Score: 17/20, Price: C$37 (SDV).

A very close second (and my favourite) was Chris' 2001 Chateau de Lascaux "Les Secrets" a 50:50 grenache/syrah from Pic St-Loup, my favourite Languedoc appellation. A beguiling nose of black cherries and violets, tar and wet stones, black pepper and liquorice as well. Acid, tannin and fruit in harmony, a very long finish, this should benefit from a few more years in the cellar.
15.4% alcohol, Score: 17.5/20, Price: C$46 (SAQ)

Third was my Loire red, the 2003 Domaine des Roches Neuves "La Marginale", a cabernet franc from Samur-Champigny. On the nose one of my partners said this wine "smells like a joint", but unfamiliar with the term I preferred "vegetal and leafy green"..., with smokey blackcurrant and floral scents. Velvety smooth tea-like tannins, very elegant and well balanced, it stood out like a sore thumb amongst these hot climate grenache/shiraz wines and held its own, pairing particularly well with the venison terrine. Beautifully textured and the longest finish, this needs to sit for a few more years.
13% alcohol, Score: 17.5/20, Price: C$38 (SAQ)

A near consensus last place was Pramod's 2001 Chateau Cazeneuve "Roc des Mates", a syrah (80%) with the balance grenache/mourvedre from Pic St-Loup. Rather tired on the nose - plummy cooked fruit, earthy, with some pepper and smoke, another taster described it as canned tomato sauce (Chef Boyardee to be exact). Smooth, but uncomplex and a touch hot on the palate. A disappointment, as I supplied this to Pramod and have had good success in the past - must have peaked two years ago, or I have a storage problem...
14% alcohol, Score: 15/20, Price: C$27 (SAQ)

All wines were blinded and decanted prior to the start. I had tasted three of these wines before so I wasn't completely blinded, but time does play tricks with the memory and I got the two Pic St-Loup wines mixed up.

Oops, almost forgot the dessert! The 2002 Cave de l'Abbe Rous Helyos (Banyuls) was a dessert wine made from 100% grenache. Meaty dark fruit and almonds on the nose, beautiful texture - luxurious soft and velvety tannins and dark berry fruit - a worthy competitor to a fine port.
16.5% alcohol, Score: 17.5/20, Price: C$51 (SAQ)

Cheers!

6 comments:

David McDuff said...

...one of my partners said this wine "smells like a joint", but unfamiliar with the term I preferred "vegetal and leafy green"...

Leafy green, you know what it means. I've found more than a few white Bordeaux that smell of fresh cannabis. A very memorable aroma.

Joe said...

I never inhaled.

Barry said...

Joe..have you had any earlier vintages of
Domaine des Roches Neuves "La Marginale",
Still available here are 1999,2000,2001 & 2002...
I need a push..a gentle one..they cost about Euros 26

Joe said...

Barry - I really liked this wine ('03), and if they are all the same price 2002 was a great vintage. Brooklynguy was iffy on the '01. This will be a big wine, but not in the Aussie/US sense - have you tried a lot of Loire Cab Franc before? This was one of the best I have ever tasted, but I like tannins...and with good acid and minerality...sublime. Of course, after the Aligote "incident" I am a bit leery recommending anything to you ;)

Barry said...

...and didn't I just knew the last comment would come.....

OK 2002 it is..if I don't like it ..expect the 'heavies' to appear at your door..you'll recognise them..dressed in black with a bottle of Spätburgunder instead of baseball bats

Joe said...

Hi Barry - bocksbeutels or the regulars? You will like it - how much, don't know, but you will like it. You drink so little that I have tasted that I haven't "profiled" you yet...