Friday, April 04, 2008

Barbera vs. Sangiovese vs. Lasagna

For Lasagna, and most Italian dishes, I instinctively reach for Italian wines. But what works best? I typically grab a Barbera or a Sangiovese for a tomato/pasta dish, but are these really interchangeable? Time for an experiment: two identically priced Italian reds from the same 2001 vintage, mano a mano vs. our homemade lasagna. And tonight's homemade Lasagna served up a cacophony of flavours - homemade tomato sauce, ground beef, cooked spinach, melted cheeses - could either of these wines stand up to this?

The answer is yes - the sangiovese took on this monstrous dish, while the rather delicious barbera wilted under the onslaught:

The 2001 Villa di Capezzana comes from the Carmignano appellation, and for those of you familiar with Chianti this is a rather different take on Sangiovese. Gravelly wet fur, with a deep violet, truffle, blackberry and sour cherry, coffee and spicy tobacco notes - an olfactory joy! Elegant, complex, with luxurious woodsy fruit - fruit, acid and tannins in perfect harmony. This terrific, classically-styled tuscan pour tamed that lasagna.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: $32.50 (SAQ)

Make no mistake, the 2001 Pio Cesare "Fides" (Barbera d'Alba) was an excellent wine. Very nice smokey, earthy and tarry notes on the nose, subtle dark cherries and currants as well. The palate was oaky and spicy, with subtle tarry fruit, thinner and a touch more rustic than the Capezzana, but when confronted with this flavourful dish all the flavours faded revealing tar, and little else. We enjoyed this bottle after dinner, at which time we all complimented this terrific wine - osso buco, anyone?
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$33 (SAQ)

So, two great ones but only one great pairing...

10 comments:

Sonadora said...

Mmm, the Barbera sounds great. I was on quite a Barbera quick earlier this year, though I'm veering toward white wines again as the weather warms up...I see you don't have that issue yet what with your snow!!

Joe said...

Hi Megan - the Barbera was VERY good, Pio Cesare is one of the top Piedmont houses, but just not great with meaty/spinach-ey lasagne...

Edward said...

Joe,

I think I bought a bottle of the Pio Cesare some time back (now if I could only find it. . .)

Is it ready to go, or should I sit on it for longer?

Joe said...

Hi Ed - my notes say "now or over the next three years." We gave it a good decant and it held up well so no need to panic, but I wouldn't save it for a decade. Cheers!

Temporal said...

If you have not tried it the Carmignano Trefiano from Capezzana which is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot is very much worth checking out.

Joe said...

Hi Temporal - I have had the Ghiaie della Furba and Villa di Capezzana, I have even seen the Barco Reale at the shop, but I have never ever seen the Trefiano - I will look for it. Have you tasted the Barco Reale?

Temporal said...

Yes I've had the Barco Reale, its the younger brother of the Carmignano and a very good value wine for its price.
I'm also a big fan of the Ghiaie della Furba.

If you ever come across the Trebbiano you should give it a taste, very big and complex.

Joe said...

Thanks Temporal, will look for that one.

Edward said...

Joe,

Thanks for jogging my brain on this, as you can see I finally found the bottle. . . (You should see my filing cabinet at work!)

Joe said...

Hi Ed - glad you found it! My filing cabinet? Disaster. My cellar? Excel spreadsheet, organized by region - if only the rest of my life was as well organized...