Sunday, December 30, 2007

Mini Vertical #6: 2003 vs. 2005 D'Arenberg "The Laughing Magpie"

Been away for a few days so I have a few posts to catch up on. Here's the last in my Mini Vertical series (for now), and it was another Australian night.

The 2003 D'Arenberg "The Laughing Magpie" was a dark cherry red with a slight brick colour at the edges. Opened slowly over the eveing - liquorice and cloves, then violet, blackberry cedar, tobacco, flint and prunes. Quite angular and harsh when first poured, but it softened very nicely over the evening, retaining a nice fresh acidity and elegance. Drink now, or over the next few years.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: ~$27 (LCBO) (swapped some Montus for this one)

The 2005 D'Arenberg "The Laughing Magpie" was a purpley cherry red, with a very hot and spicy nose. Blackberry fruit, smokey, with some leafiness, later revealing violet, undergrowth, pepper, liquorice, butterscotch and cocoa, and a late showing of a strong, tar/fuel aroma. On the palate it was complex, with dry dusty tannins and not overly fruity, but not as well integrated. It should improve with some bottle age, but I really have no experience with wines aged under a screw cap. Give it a good decant.
screw cap. 15% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: $27.95 (LCBO)

So while tonight was meant to be a comparison of two different vintages, I couldn't help thinking about "closure". The 2003 has sat in my cellar for a few years under a cork closure, while the 2005 was purchased more recently and sealed under a screw cap. Can I really compare vintages in this scenario? Also interesting to note the difference that 0.5% alcohol made on my perception of the wines.

Sorry Edward - I promised a match up of the 2002 vs. the 2005 after your 2002 review, but I only had the 2003. Cheers!

2 comments:

Edward said...

Joe,

Great notes again. Regarding screw caps, they have been around in increasing numbers since about 2000 in Australia. Many premium reds are sealed with screwcap, and I think the feeling is they do age but more slowly than cork sealed wines.

I have a wine cabinet filling up with screwcap sealed reds. So I can let you know in a decade or so :)

Joe said...

Hi Ed - as a science guy "slower aging" makes sense, but I just don't have the experience with that. I would love to do some more detailed comparisons - maybe the guys at Elderton can show me when they give me that VIP treatment! Heck, in 10 years I should be able to get to Perth...