Chinon at the Liverpool House

Chris, one of my wine buddies, practically lives at Montreal's Liverpool House, a bustling bistro/pub/oyster bar on rue Notre-Dame. I see the attraction now - a deliciously eclectic menu, peppered with deviant takes on classic bistro fare, and set in an unpretentious and welcoming pub-styled atmosphere that makes you want to stick around for another drink after dinner...(and we did)

The 2005 Château de Coulaine "Les Picasses" (Chinon) had a tremendous nose of spicy black earth and green pepper, later some blackberry fruit...floral and flinty, some vanilla. A velvety earthy texture, soft and grainy, but perhaps a touch riper, soft and not as crisp as I expect in a Chinon. Very tasty, with some length that hints at cellaring. I think this could be a good transition wine for those who like New World Cab Franc and are looking to try an Old World rendition.
cork. organic. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20

The fun didn't stop with the Chinon, as we switched to the 2005 Georges Descombes Brouilly for after dinner sipping...terrific Bojo, but after my haunting Morgon experience recently I just sip, and enjoy...

A Grand Tasting of California Cabernets

Looking back over the past few years of tastings it is hard to believe that I have been the "ringleader" for our wine group - I mean, I never EVER win these tastings. Remember the old saying "even a blind squirrel sometimes finds a nut"? Well, in our blinded tastings my wines have been road kill.

Well, that's not really true - my Cesare Ornato was the best at the November tasting - at least I thought so, but I was unblinded so my self-proclaimed victory was hollow. But tonight was extra special because it was the real deal - a blinded, head to head cab-fest featuring some truly legendary California wines...and I won!

Ranked 1st or 2nd by two-thirds of the tasters, the 2003 Cardinale (86% Cabernet, Merlot) was obviously chosen by a sophisticated oenophile with a superior palate. A subtle nose, quite closed at first, later opening to reveal beautifully balanced violet, black pepper, leather and blackberries. But the nose was a pretty accessory to an astonishing palate - nice dense fruit and a very fine, velvety, long, long finish. It didn't jump out at us so much as it crept up and enveloped the group with incredible complexity and finesse. Did I mention that I won? Score: 18.5/20

There was considerable enthusiasm for Ash's 2002 Heitz Cellar Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, (100% Cabernet, organic) Ash adding to his string of successes since rejoining our wine group last year. A more interesting nose than the Cardinale, with flinty eucalyptus, violets, currants and black cherries, but just a touch jammy at the end of the night which pushed it into second place for me. Delicate, classy, and showing some age on the palate, a beautiful wine. Score: 18.5/20

There was little separation amongst the top 3 wines, with Lloyd's 1997 Joseph Phelps Insignia (83% Cab, 14% Merlot, Petit Verdot) close behind the Cardinale and Heitz in the rankings. Black cherries and mushrooms on the nose, earthy/flinty notes as well, some mint - pretty, maybe simpler than some of the others. Very nicely balanced with a very, very long finish...elegance. Score: 18/20

Further back was Cam's 2003 Juslyn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain Estate (85% Cabernet, 8% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot, Petit Verdot). Quite different from the others, with a lovely meaty nose, wet stones as well, a touch jammy and hot as the night wore on. A nice lengthy, meaty finish on the palate. Score: 17.5/20

Tied for fifth and sixth were Pramod's 2001 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Cosme's 2004 Peter Michael "Les Pavots". I quite liked the Montelena (Score: 17.5/20) - rubbery liquorice, black earth and white pepper on the nose, crisp cherry fruit and silky tannins on the palate, just a shorter finish than the greats above pushing it down a notch for me, but I liked it more than most the gang (I always love Chateau Montelena). The surprising result for me was the near last place finish for the Peter Michael (Score: 17/20), as the "Les Pavots" consistently wins accolades. Gobs of ripe, dark fruit on the nose, vanilla and violets as well. A very nice, long finish with dense tannins, just too fruity and too jammy for our group.

Unfortunately Chris' 2003 Neal Family Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain Estate was corked - a shame, as there was such a nice velvety texture to the wine. I think each and every one of us has had a corker now.

So, if any of you start "Google-ing" these wines you will find that they are, for the most part, expensive and rare - a true who's who of California and a terrific flight to really get a sense of what it's like at the top ends of the price/quality spectra.

A terrific night! Many thanks to our hosts, Cosme and Rebecca (the tenderloin was a smashing idea).

Next up, IGT-fest!

Bu, Bar à Vin?

Bu is a Montreal wine bar ... well, sort of. Yes, it has an extensive list of wines and special "flights" of wines by the glass (constantly changing), but technically you cannot just sit down and have a drink - you have to order from the kitchen.

Which brings me to the main reason you need to visit Bu - the food. Yes, the wine list is great and the flights are interesting and challenging, but the star is Ms. Alba Delgado, "la chef de cuisine", who brings her twenty years in Italy to a tight selection of flavourful and impeccably-made Italian classics. I've been twice now and I had the "risotto du jour" both times - amongst the best risottos in town. But I digress....

Tonight's intrepid trio of wine tasters included myself, Marcus (who has moved over to Facebook), and my bro-in-law. Our opening flight featured a few whites:

2006 Cecilia Zeta del Tucano (Vermentino di Toscana)
2006 Odysseus (Priorat)
2006 Domaine Larue St-Aubin 1er Cru "Murgers des Dents de Chien" (Burgundy)

The Cecilia was thin and light, with creamy apple and key lime notes... crisp, green and unoaked, not bad. The Odysseus, crafted from Pedro Ximenez grapes, was soft and flavourful on the palate...cantaloupe, pears and applesauce on the nose, a touch hot - I had it pegged for a dry Jurancon (see Alder's winery description). The Domaine Larue was my first from this Burgundian appellation - an oaky, creamy, smokey-apple chardonnay with an up-front minerality that I thought was Californian - expensive and too much oak.

After we washed down the appetizers with the whites we switched to reds for the main course:

2004 Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot (Chambolle-Musigny)
2005 Philippe Alliet Coteau de Noire (Chinon)
2001 Joseph Swan Mancini Ranch Zinfandel (Russian River)

The Alliet Chinon was my favourite and easily identified...green pepper, damp undergrowth, flint and inky blackberry - dry woodsy tannins and crisp acidity on the palate, a long finish, YUM. The Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot had to be the least typical red Burgundy I have ever tasted - meaty walnuts and red berry fruit on the nose, but unbalanced on the palate with a sharp acidic frame and flavours of rusty nails - no one picked this as a pinot, much less Burgundy. The Swan Zin was tired, old, alcohol-y cooked fruit, I was thinking Nero d'Avola on this one (a term I occasionally use to describe an unidentified red wine I don't like...).

But Swan made it up to us, as we enjoyed a glass of the 2001 Joseph Swan Trenton Estate Syrah (Russian River) to finish the evening - meaty, dark berry fruit and cedary black pepper on the nose, blackberries wrapped in velvety tannins on the palate, a wine that is hitting its stride at 7 years old.

Sorry for the delay, Marcus - cheers!

Oenology (Eno), A Wine Bar

"Quickly, bring me a beaker of wine, so that I may wet my mind and say something clever" - Aristophanes - (from the menu at Eno)

Walking back to my hotel in Chicago from an evening business meeting, I spotted a sign: "Oenology". Hmm...promising...yes...a wine bar! Now, a wine bar in a big city like Chicago is not a surprise, but it was not on my schedule for the evening so I can call it a surprise...

A few comments on "Eno". Yes, it is located in a hotel (the InterContinental), but therein lies the charm - it was modern, but not so hip that I had to deal with the extra loud thumping of music, servers in tiny black minidresses and 25-somethings who already know everything about wine. But I wouldn't dare call this a "library" - yes there was modern music background and a youngish crowd, but the atmosphere accented the wine, not suffocated it. Perhaps even a detectable seriousness in the air which, for anyone who has seen me tasting, was absolutely perfect...

Most wine bars feature various wines by the glass and featured flights, and so did Eno, but Eno also featured thoughtfully prepared flights of cheeses and meats to pair with the wines, a simple, but well executed, touch  - I highly recommending some of the meat and cheese flights.

Flight #1 was a "Festival of Whites", paired with a flight of Wisconsin cheeses (perfect for this Cheese-head), olives and nuts, and a curiously delicious jam with mustard seed:

The 2006 www "Bordello" Verdelho (Lodi) showed a fresh greenness on the nose, with green melon and floral, woodsy, notes as well. Refreshing and flavourful with decent acid, but with higher alcohol and a heavy oaky hand.
13.4% alcohol, Score: 16/20

My favourite of the flight was the 2005 Atrea "The Choir" (Mendocino), a Rhone blend of Roussane/Viognier, had a nice earthy, musty nose, butterscotch (Werther's) and oregano later on. Smooth, soft, and luscious mouthfeel, very flavourful and poised, nice persistency. There's amazing juice in there if they just laid off the oak a tiny bit...
14.2% alcohol, Score 17/20

On the right was the 2006 Brooks "Amycas" (Oregon). A blend of Pinot gris, Pinot blanc, Gewurtztraminer, and a dash of Muscat, it showed a simple nose of honeyed apples and wet bread dough, some citrus. Simple and refreshing, but a bit thin.
13.7% alcohol, Score: 15.5/20

Flight #2 was "Pinot Envy", paired with a unique selection of dried meats from around the world:

Pinot envy was not just Pinot Noir, and first up was the 2007 Yamhill Valley Vineyards Pinot Blanc (Oregon). Very minerally, with green grass and yeasty limes on the nose. Dry, limey, very nice acidity and minerality on the palate. Great persistency, very nicely balanced, this is quality wine making.
??% alcohol, Score:17/20

The 2006 Eola Hills Pinot Noir (Oregon) featured ripe raspberries, oak, vanilla, cocoa, white pepper, and a hint of cloves - more like a Californian Pinot on the nose - but back to Oregon on the palate, with good acidity, substantial tannins, and crisp fruit - better structure than the nose hinted at, nicely done.
13.8% alcohol, Score: 16.5/20

So here's one reason why I like wine bars - where would you try a STILL Pinot Meunier?Apparently Chandon's Napa estate has decided to set aside some of this classic champagne grape and use it in a dry, red wine. The nose of the 2006 Chandon Pinot Meunier (Carneros) was over-the-top California Pinot Noir at first - all ripe fruit and chocolate - but later opened up to reveal an appealing earthiness. Rather hot and unbalanced on the palate, with smokey dark berries (gooseberries?), modest tannin, and a deceptively long finish that lasts longer than you think.
14.3% alcohol, Score: 16/20

After the flights I had a craving for something European so I finished with a glass of Italian Cabernet Franc, the 2004 G. Puiatti "le Zuccole" from Friuli. Ahh, now there's the stuff...earthy green pepper, black pepper, tobacco, espresso coffee grounds... velvety dry tannins and crisp cherry fruit on the palate, a bit thin but still very good and nicely balanced, would work great with a wintery stew.
12% alcohol, Score: 16.5/20

For me, a wine bar should tease, taunt and educate, and it should be serious about the wine, not the bar. So in that sense Eno was a great success. No, it was not cheap, but not excessive, and I don't mind paying for the infotainment on occasion.

And for those of you looking for a hipper, trendier wine bar, Bin 36 is nearby.

Cheers!

Mini Vertical #8: Steltzner Claret

Steltzner's Claret is, in my opinion, one of Napa's great values. In a region where the entry price for decent cab is usually over 50 bucks, Steltzner continues to surprise with such a well made wine at this price point. Unfortunately the Opimian catalogue did not offer the Claret this year, but I had two vintages from previous offerings for a blinded "Mini Vertical" to pair with pepper steak:

The 2004 Steltzner Claret (Napa) was minty violets and ripe blackberries on the nose, with some liquorice, pepper, vanilla and green vegetal notes as well. Beautifully textured with decent acidity, velvety tannins, and a nice long finish, but showing the heat of the alcohol. The more ageworthy of the two, it should keep for a few more years but fine today.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$28 (Opimian)

The 2005 Steltzner Claret (Napa) was meaty and leathery on the nose, dark violets, liquorice, with fruit that smelled a touch older than the '04. Soft, silky tannins and nice dark fruit - simpler than the 2004, with a shorter finish. Drink now, short decant ok.
cork. 14.2% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$29 (Opimian)

Note that Steltzner fashions this wine using grapes (Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot) from other suppliers and not estate-grown grapes. With high prices for Napa Valley Cabernet, I wonder how long the Steltzner folks will be able to keep a lid on the price?

2004 Chateau Peyros Magenta

It's no secret that I have a soft spot for the tannat-based wines of Madiran, a small french appellation in Southwest France. But I have mainly tasted the pricier offerings, Chateau Montus and Chateau Bouscasse. Here's a great, inexpensive Madiran...

The 2004 Chateau Peyros Magenta (Madiran) had a pleasing mustiness on the nose and was very vegetal (garden herbs) - leather, black liquorice, and floral notes as well. Very smooth and balanced, a modest finish - easy drinking, but simple. A great value for my Ontario friends. 
cork. 13.8% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$14.85 (LCBO)

Note that this Madiran was 50:50 Tannat and Cabernet Franc (Montus is 80% Tannat/20% Cabernet Sauvignon), which explains the vegetal notes and Peyros' accessibility for such a young Madiran.

Red Wine from "Other" France

Cam hosted our third "Boys Only" (previous 1,2) formal tasting with an "Other France" theme - red wine from France, but no Rhone, Burgundy or Bordeaux. You would think that the creative juices would be flowing but it was a Languedoc-heavy night, featuring two from Pic St-Loup and one from Corbieres. I brought the only Loire red, nothing from Southwest France...too bad.

The crowd favourite was the host's 2004 Ollieux Romanis Cuvee Or (30% carignan/30% grenache/30% mourvedre/10% syrah), a wine Cam picked up at the Salon des Vins. Dark chocolate and leathery dark blackberries on the nose, some vanilla and oak as well. So elegant on the palate - very smooth, soft and juicy, but this modern-styled wine had a very short finish and was lacking in complexity vs. the others - my third place wine.
14% alcohol, Score: 17/20, Price: C$37 (SDV).

A very close second (and my favourite) was Chris' 2001 Chateau de Lascaux "Les Secrets" a 50:50 grenache/syrah from Pic St-Loup, my favourite Languedoc appellation. A beguiling nose of black cherries and violets, tar and wet stones, black pepper and liquorice as well. Acid, tannin and fruit in harmony, a very long finish, this should benefit from a few more years in the cellar.
15.4% alcohol, Score: 17.5/20, Price: C$46 (SAQ)

Third was my Loire red, the 2003 Domaine des Roches Neuves "La Marginale", a cabernet franc from Samur-Champigny. On the nose one of my partners said this wine "smells like a joint", but unfamiliar with the term I preferred "vegetal and leafy green"..., with smokey blackcurrant and floral scents. Velvety smooth tea-like tannins, very elegant and well balanced, it stood out like a sore thumb amongst these hot climate grenache/shiraz wines and held its own, pairing particularly well with the venison terrine. Beautifully textured and the longest finish, this needs to sit for a few more years.
13% alcohol, Score: 17.5/20, Price: C$38 (SAQ)

A near consensus last place was Pramod's 2001 Chateau Cazeneuve "Roc des Mates", a syrah (80%) with the balance grenache/mourvedre from Pic St-Loup. Rather tired on the nose - plummy cooked fruit, earthy, with some pepper and smoke, another taster described it as canned tomato sauce (Chef Boyardee to be exact). Smooth, but uncomplex and a touch hot on the palate. A disappointment, as I supplied this to Pramod and have had good success in the past - must have peaked two years ago, or I have a storage problem...
14% alcohol, Score: 15/20, Price: C$27 (SAQ)

All wines were blinded and decanted prior to the start. I had tasted three of these wines before so I wasn't completely blinded, but time does play tricks with the memory and I got the two Pic St-Loup wines mixed up.

Oops, almost forgot the dessert! The 2002 Cave de l'Abbe Rous Helyos (Banyuls) was a dessert wine made from 100% grenache. Meaty dark fruit and almonds on the nose, beautiful texture - luxurious soft and velvety tannins and dark berry fruit - a worthy competitor to a fine port.

16.5% alcohol, Score: 17.5/20, Price: C$51 (SAQ)

Cheers!

2001 on the Right Bank - Pomerol and St-Emilion

The big melt is on - the snow (a near record >350cm fell on Montreal this winter) is nearly gone, and the arrival of milder temperatures and the clear path to my barbecue are cause for celebration...steak and Bordeaux!

Tonight's rib steaks were paired with two "right bank" wines for another of Joe's blinded, head-to-head comparisons - a St-Emilion versus a Pomerol from the unheralded 2001 vintage.

On the right bank merlot reigns supreme, and both of these wines were no exception. The wines of Pomerol are known to be soft and lush, while the wines of St-Emilion typically use more cabernet franc, and are known for cedary, herbaceous and mineral notes (1).

The 2001 Chateau Moulin St-Georges (St-Emilion) was peppery, leathery and herbaceous, with nice rose petal and minerally notes on the nose. Awkward at first despite a one hour decant before dinner, it softened up to show good acidity, nice minerality and a velvety texture. More interesting than the La Pointe below, it will need a few more years to sort itself out. 
cork. 13.5% alcohol
est: 70% merlot, 15% cab franc, 15% cab sauv
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$57 (LCBO)

The 2001 Chateau La Pointe (Pomerol) was exactly how I pictured a Pomerol - elegant, soft, luscious and expansive, with a generous serving of silky tannins. Attractive, but subtle and less complex than the St-Emilion - earthy, truffley, smokey cheese, perfume and dark cocoa powder. A well made, textbook Pomerol, also needs a few more years. 
cork. 13% alcohol
80% merlot, 10% cab franc, 10% cab sauv
Score: 17/20
Price: C$64 (SAQ)

My fellow tasters described the wines as austere - the wines were definitely not fruit forward -evolving over the evening and pairing very well with the grilled meat. After reading some brief notes on characteristics of St- Emilion and Pomerol all tasters easily identified the provenance of the wines.

Personally, I preferred the structured 'edginess' of the St-Emilion, but it is easy to see why people spend vast sums of money on Pomerols - typically more accessible in their youth vs. the wines of the Medoc, I have found them very easy to enjoy.

WBW #44: 2004 Bernard Baudry Chinon

I doubt this will be an original, such a well-known, well-regarded producer (I see Dr. Vino just wrote on Baudry, Brooklyn one year ago), but it was my first experience with Baudry...

On the nose the 2004 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon was all mushrooms and black earth (and an old baseball mitt?), or a cooked green pepper stuffed with mushrooms and cheese and seasoned with nutmeg - more attractive than it sounds, and very nice for sniffing. Thin, and awkward at first, it opened up to reveal copious acidity, spicy cherry fruit and an appealing silky texture. This was classic Loire Cab Franc. Better when cooler (approx. 16-18 Celsius), it paired nicely with shredded pork tenderloin and noodles in a mild, sweet, soy-based sauce.
cork. 12% alcohol. decanted ~30 min.
Score: 16/20
Price: $21 (SAQ)

For those looking to try Loire reds this Baudry was prototypical, but for a few dollars less you can have the Chateau de Fesles - I like both (at cellar temp), but stylistically different.

A special thanks to Gary Vanyerchuk of Wine Library TV, and the gang at Wine Blogging Wednesday.

Two Bloggers Take On Cab Franc

Marcus was the first wine blogger to notice my site and his encouragement has been inspiring. But Marcus has always been suspicious of my patriotism - there are very few Canadian wines on this site. His great experience with a Niagara Cab Franc and my lack of enthusiasm for the hometown juice led to a truly awesome global Cab Franc showdown last night:

2000 Hillebrand Showcase Cab Franc Glenlake Vineyard (Niagara)
2002 Charles Joguet Clos du Chene Vert (Chinon)
2003 Germain "La Marginale" (Samur-Champigny)
2004 Steltzner Cabernet Franc (Stag's Leap)

My contribution was the Marginale and the Steltzner, a wine tasted here nearly a year ago, and acquired on my Napa 2006 tour. The four wines were decanted (exc. the Hillebrand), served blind, and enjoyed over the evening with some tremendous food.

On my left was the 2002 Clos du Chene Vert, a classically-styled Loire Valley cab franc from the Chinon appellation. A pale cherry red, the first aroma was that of cheese - brie, perhaps - later developing nice complexity, showing violet, rose, strawberry, nutmeg, pepper, bread and undergrowth. On the palate it was peppery, oaky and even olivey. A very lengthy finish, this needs more time in the cellar. To quote my notes, "beautiful". Joguet is clearly a winemaker to watch - I loved the Dioterie, and last night's Chêne Vert was equally impressive.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$33 (SAQ)

Next was the 2004 Steltzner Cab Franc. Following my recent trip to Sonoma (and a visit to Napa last year), it was not problem identifiying this as the American wine. A deep, dense cherry red in the glass, it showed nice jammy blackberry fruit, with some liquorice, smoke, tobacco and cocoa. Medium to full bodied, the velvety tannins provided structure to the nice, big, dense, chewy fruit, but it got a bit flabby later in the evening. Note that this wine hid the 15% alcohol very well. Might improve with time, but a very nice new world cab franc today.
cork. 15% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: ~US$38 (winery)

Third from the left was the 2003 Domaine des Roches Neuves "La Marginale" was an enigma at first, showing some more modern styled winemakeing, but obviously old world on the palate. Woodsy, dusty and oaky at first, it later showed nice blackberry, pepper, black liquorice and undergrowth. On the palate the thick tannic blanket of dry dustry tannins coated the tongue with nice, crisp, leathery fruit - very complex, very interesting. A very long finish, this wine was way too young and should improve with some cellar time.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: $38 (SAQ)

On my right was the 2000 Hillebrand Showcase Cabernet Franc. Aging beautifully, this wine was smooth, but rather one-dimensional in the presence of the other wines. Meaty, with violet, blackberry, leafy green pepper, and liquorice, it was simpler than the other wines. It was also simpler and thinner on the palate, but with nice blackberry flavour and silky smooth.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$50 (winery)

Overall, a very awesome tasting and my first with a fellow blogger. What did I learn last night?

1) Marcus is a great host. Just make sure you get the tasting finished before he fires up the stove or you won't be able to smell the wine! (we did)
2) An eight year old Cab Franc from Niagara can taste very smooth and luxurious, and while "new world" it was not American - I thought they would be more similar.
3) I thought the Napa might better one or both of the Loires. Those Loires were amazing, and the two cheapest!
4) I thought that the Marginale was almost Bordeaux like - poised, yet powerful, rich but not cloying, focused but not too acidic. In that context - equal or better than many pricier Bordeaux - it is an absolute steal. The Chinon was equal, but a more classically-styled Loire red and maybe a slightly better match for dinner. In a blind tasting with some Bordeaux, I think the Chinon would have been easy to pick out, the Marginale less so.
5) Both of us correctly separated the old world cabs from the new, and both of us preferred the old world juice. Even more important, those two were amazing bottles and much cheaper - consumers take note!

By now, some of you have done the math and realized that two gentlemen opened four bottles of wine. We only finished half of the wine, so it could have been a more difficult morning...

Guest Blogger: Lloyd Does Sicily

Nearly a month ago I finally let my good wine buddy Lloyd help me fill in some content. I value Lloyd's wine views as highly as any, and especially his love of all things Italian. Once again, here is my "roving correspondent" Lloyd, on assignment in Sicily:

One of the only benefits of having a disorganized cellar is finding a hidden gem you forgot you had. Kinda like finding that $20 bill in an old jacket, it’s a great feeling. Such was the case last night when I spotted a 2002 Planeta Burdese that I forgot I owned. Purchased at the suggestion of a local wine advisor who has an eye for the unusual, he suggested I let it sit for a while. He was right on. Made predominantly from cabernet sauvignon and about 30% cab franc, the Burdese is big and mouth-filling, with a wide beam of fine tannins that suggests it will age extremely well. The nose was hot (the ’02 seems to be unusually high alcohol for this wine at 14.5%), but balanced with smoke, oak, cassis and dark cherry. I guessed some Sangiovese – but was wrong. The whole thing comes together nicely, full-bodied, oh-so-slightly astringent but well-integrated with the fruit and tannins, and a satisfying, long finish. It got even better after an hour in the decanter. This is a great match for any red meat or strong cheese, and as good a cabernet as I’ve ever tried from southern Italy. Score: 17.25, Price (SAQ ‘03): $35.

Hey Lloyd - what's up with the quarter points?!

Cheers!

PS - I always find the Planetas nicely made, but a bit hot.

2006 Chateau de Fesles Cabernet Franc

Both Dr. Debs and I were thinking Loire red last night, but I ended up taking another stab at Cabernet Franc. And another success, I should say, especially given the price. Quality-wise, this wine slots in between the 2004 Clos la Dioterie and the 2004 Domaine de la Perrière. Even better, it was cheaper than the relatively unloved (by Joe) Perrière.

The 2006 Chateau de Fesles Cabernet Franc "Vielles Vignes" (Anjou), by Bernard Germain, was a nice purpley-red, appearing "weightier" in the glass than it was on the palate. Very leafy on the nose, with dominant scents of tobacco and tea, later showing some nice vegetal, blackcurrant and black pepper notes. On the palate it was very dry, with tongue-puckering tannins, lively acidity, crisp currant fruit and a velvety texture. Light- to medium-bodied, the whole package was slightly off balance, but should come together a little better with some time in the cellar. I found it a bit nicer closer to cellar temperature, or just below room temperature. A great match for homemade burgers off the grill, I think it would also pair nicely with some winter stews or weightier veal dishes. At this price, you can safely put some away for winter.
13% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$17 (SAQ)

Note that I had the Anjou White by Germain here, and it led off our World of Whites tasting last week. Another great find - Germain is displaying some nice, consistent quality.

Loire Red Redo: 2004 Clos de la Dioterie

In a vain attempt to save Homer Simpson the indignity of having my face pasted upon his admirable likeness, I thought one last dive into the cellar for a Cab Franc from the Loire was in order. With last week's disappointment I had nothing to lose, and I thought an unscheduled steak off the grill called for Cabernet.

The 2004 Charles Joguet Clos de la Dioterie (Chinon) is my second assault in a week on that untamed barbarian bastion of red wine, the Loire Valley. Deep dark purple in colour, freshly decanted this wine displayed a beautiful nose of blueberry jam. Warming up, it evolved more complexity, with flinty, leathery, earthy and attractive vegetal aromas. Some spice, nutmeg and cinnamon as well - very nice. The deep colouring was misleading, as the palate was light-medium bodied, with nice (but not overpowering) tannins. Very elegant, with crisp acidity and nice tannins, it made me think of gamay (Cru Beaujolais) for some strange reason. Well balanced with a decent finish, this is good right now, or could age for a few more years. An excellent wine, made to measure for a grilled steak in a mild wine vinegar/mustard seed marinade. This week's experience was much more gratifying, and we happily gulped the whole bottle.
12.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$33 (SAQ)

Dangerously close to a coveted 18+ JoeScore, this wine may yet save the JoeMan from a vindictive wine villain seeking to unveil his secret identity. Victory is mine!

2004 Domaine de la Perriere Vielles Vignes

I pride myself on vinuous diversity, tasting and collecting wines made from a plethora of grapes, using multiple winemaking styles, selling at all price points, coming from every region around the world:

"I believe every wine has a perfect time, place, food pairing, and friend to share it with." - Joe

But I have avoided Loire wines over the years. That is actually not true, as I have had great experiences with Loire WHITE wines - glorious Sancerre, Vouvray, Pouilly-Fume, Muscadet. But I was stung by a vile Loire red years ago and I have not touched one since.

The wine writers seem to be equally suspicious. While I could pull together many quotes, the great Jancis Robinson (a writer I find more old world in her preferences) said of Loire reds; "In the old days reds in two years out of three were thin, weedy and tart..." While it is no longer "the old days", it seems to me that Loire winemakers continue their battle with Mother Nature in this northerly wine-growing region, desperately trying to get their vines to ripen.

In the Loire, red wines make up 26% of production, and Cabernet Franc is the principal red wine grape. The AOC of Chinon is famous for its reds, so I thought that my tentative return to Loire reds should start here.

The 2004 Domaine de la Perrière was in some ways both a disappointment and vindication. Light purple in colour, the nose was quite interesting - vegetal, earthy and woodsy with scents of cocoa powder, pepper and gooseberries. The rest could simply quote Jancis above. Very dry, light bodied and minerally with some black cherry fruit, the sharp acidity was overwhelming, putting everything off balance. It worked a bit better with the lamb kebabs, slicing through the grease, and the wine softened ever so slightly over the evening. It was tasted both cool, right out of the bottle, and warm after a long decant, with similar notes.
12.5% alcohol
Score: 14/20
Price: C$19.55 (SAQ)

Perhaps I am the beer swilling lout at the back of the opera house and I just "don't get it". Or perhaps the terroir is speaking to us, like a cheap 70s horror flick, saying "Get Out! You cannot fully ripen here..."

Regardless, I never give up on a grape or region. I will retreat to the Gironde, lick my wounds, and re-plan my assault on the grape Breton.

2004 Steltzner Cabernet Franc

I bought this wine when I visited the Steltzner winery in October. Funny - I do not have any tasting notes for that wine during our visit, but I bought two bottles? Sure I tried it there.

Anyway, this was another Steltzner hit. Deep cherry red, with an impressive nose: captivating aromas of violet, blackberry/strawberry, a strong scent of truffles, leather, cedar, and spice, it also had nice meaty aromas and pencil shavings. Very complex, it changed and developed over the evening - fascinating. On the palate it was full-bodied with firm tannins, big fruit and a decent finish. Very drinkable, but slightly awkward due to the high alchohol. A bit of a bruiser. Nice now with a good decant, but should soften up with some more time in the bottle. Overall, a big muscular wine, and a nice take on Cabernet Franc - a nice change from those 'everyday' red grapes (Shiraz, Cabernet).
cork. 15% alcohol
Score 17.5/20
Cost C$40 (winery)