WBW #54: Pio Cesare, White and Red

I have been ignoring Italy for the past few months (not sure why) and I have not participated in WBW (I know why), but for the fifty-fourth WBW installment my wine buddy David McDuff is hosting and Piedmont is calling - how could I resist (especially when bonus points are served)?

I chose two wines from Pio Cesare, one of Piedmont's most renowned wine houses, for two reasons - consistent success, and it has been two years since I have tasted "A Peeedmont Chardonnayyy".

The 2001 Pio Cesare Barbera d'Alba "Fides" first showed its rubbery/inky/tarry side on the nose, later delivering lovely green pepper, cherry fruit, almonds and earthy, single malt scotch-like notes. Lovely texture - silky tannins and fresh acidity with a nice, spicy almond finish. Scored identically to last year, with similar tarry notes and a spicy mouthfeel, one of the nicest barberas I've ever had.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$33 (SAQ)

Yes, Piedmont chardonnay just sounds wrong, but I just focus on the liquid in the glass. The 2007 Pio Cesare l'Altro Piedmont Chardonnay had a promising nose - green grass at first, some soap, apple, floral and peach notes as well. Stoney and crisp on the palate, yet soft and oily as it warmed up. No faults here - a delicious, balanced chardonnay, just not "moving" me tonight...
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$23.25 (SAQ)

White and red from Piedmont, same winemaker, I can't wait to use those "McDuff Bonus Points". Cheers, David!

WBW #46 (Part 2): A Rhone White from CDP, 2004 Chateau La Nerthe Blanc

A special thanks to Debs for hosting this month's WBW, and for choosing a great theme – the underappreciated whites made from Rhone Valley grapes (see her post for more detail). Debs promised a special billing for bloggers trying wines from different regions, so this is a follow up to my Canadian Viognier posted earlier today.

The 2004 Chateau la Nerthe (blanc) is a white wine from France's Chateauneuf du Pape appellation – a world famous appellation that is better known for its big red wines made from Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre. Tonights white CDP is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Roussanne and Clairette, most of which are rarely seen outside of France. Its haunting nose changed constantly over the evening, with notes of creamy custard, quince, lychee, spring flowers, lemon peel, wet stones and some gentle oakiness – an interesting greenness (wet ferns?) as well. Stunning on the palate – opulent, with a nice oily texture, lemony cream flavours and a nice bitter finish – so unusual, I'd almost use "rustic" if the wine wasn't SO elegant and polished. It paired nicely with a pork tenderloin, but all I could think about was buttery lobster…Very, very good.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$50 (SAQ)

Thank you to the Wine Blogging Wednesday organizers, and Debs for forcing me to try a few wine I would not have tried otherwise - I look forward to the "special billing" in your review ;)

Cheers!

WBW #46 (Part One): A Canadian Viognier from Chateau des Charmes

There are precious few Canadian wines on this site, perhaps a reflection of the fact that Canada represents a small fraction of global wine production. But the whites of Chateau des Charmes have tickled my fancy in the past, and there it was - a Canadian viognier! This I have to try - a perfect wine for today's WBW #46...

The 2006 Chateau des Charmes Viognier comes the winery's St. David's Bench vineyard. Pretty notes of lavender, honeyed apple, apricots, pear and lemon peel. I typically associate viognier with low acid and high alcohol but this was neither - crisp acid, notable minerality and a nice bitter apricot finish framed a flavourful and elegant Canadian white. Bravo!
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$22.55 (SAQ)

WBW #45: 2006 Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett

Tim at Winecast is the host of Wine Blogging Wednesday #45, and chose an interesting theme - Old World Riesling. The timing was perfect as I just polished off some very satisfying Donnhoff Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder and the SAQ had a release of Donnhoff's Rieslings.

Pale gold in the glass, the 2006 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett was very aromatic: classic petrol with honey and waxy notes, oranges, macadamia nuts and some grassiness. Off dry, minerally and faintly effervescent on the palate, luxuriously textured orange peel flavours, with great persistency and no rough edges. I'm going to hold a few bottles back and see how they evolve. Paired very well with a mild chicken tikka masala.
cork. 8.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$26.35 (SAQ)

Thanks to Tim and all of the WBW crew. I also owe a special thanks to Lyle for his assistance, as frantic blackberry-to-blackberry email exchanges resulted in some nice bottles of German riesling finding their way into my cellar - cheers Lyle!

WBW #44: 2004 Bernard Baudry Chinon

I doubt this will be an original, such a well-known, well-regarded producer (I see Dr. Vino just wrote on Baudry, Brooklyn one year ago), but it was my first experience with Baudry...

On the nose the 2004 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon was all mushrooms and black earth (and an old baseball mitt?), or a cooked green pepper stuffed with mushrooms and cheese and seasoned with nutmeg - more attractive than it sounds, and very nice for sniffing. Thin, and awkward at first, it opened up to reveal copious acidity, spicy cherry fruit and an appealing silky texture. This was classic Loire Cab Franc. Better when cooler (approx. 16-18 Celsius), it paired nicely with shredded pork tenderloin and noodles in a mild, sweet, soy-based sauce.
cork. 12% alcohol. decanted ~30 min.
Score: 16/20
Price: $21 (SAQ)

For those looking to try Loire reds this Baudry was prototypical, but for a few dollars less you can have the Chateau de Fesles - I like both (at cellar temp), but stylistically different.

A special thanks to Gary Vanyerchuk of Wine Library TV, and the gang at Wine Blogging Wednesday.

WBW #43: 2000 Penfolds Bin 389

The theme for tonight's Wine Blogging Wednesday is "Comfort Wine", an appropriate theme considering the wind-whipped ice pellets thrashing my face as I walked home from the subway. And with my good friend Ed celebrating his second anniversary, a wine from Oz was in order.

To comfort my frozen body and honour a friend I opened a 2000 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz (South Australia), a bottle that has been waiting patiently in my cellar for four years. This wine was already standing upright in my cellar, as Ed recently recommended that I open it soon (he thought it might be past its prime). Deep cherry red with a vibrant nose of musk, violet, black pepper, dark cherries, wet hay, meaty liquorice - lots going on. Juicy, not jammy, with crisp strawberry fruit and velvety tannins wrapped around a good core of acidity, followed by a lengthy, flinty finish. A pleasure with tortellini in a low fat alfredo sauce, but a comforting pour that I sipped by the fire on a wintery Montreal evening. Ahhhh.....big and brooding, a multilayered wine of complexity and depth - a wine to get lost in as you ponder its secrets by a warm winter fire...success!
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$38.50 (SAQ)

Cheers to Joel for hosting, and Ed for being Ed. Not past its prime, Ed, but don't worry - I'll save my other bottle for you...;)

WBW #42: Just 7 Words, A Wine Haiku

Seeking a challenge beyond the mandatory seven word wine review, I decided that my WBW #42 review should be in Haiku form. My apologies to Haiku enthusiasts everywhere...

Acidic palate
Vegetal cappuccino
A cabernet franc?

Wine: 2006 Podere Castorani Majolica Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 14/20
Price: C$12.35 (SAQ)

Close enough to $12, I call this Twelve under $12 #2.

Many thanks to Andrew of Spitoon and the whole Wine Blogging Wednesday crew.

WBW #40 - Petite Sirah

Sonadora got the nod from the Wine Blogging Wednesday committee and chose Petite Sirah for the theme. This presented two dilemas for me: (1) I have never tasted a good Petite Sirah, and (2) this was the first WBW that required me to go shopping - my cellar is usually well-stocked for such events.

Searching the SAQ (local wine monopoly) website, I found just 6 Petite Sirah wines online. Moreover, not all of the bottles were at stores nearby. In the end I found a Mexican Petite Sirah and a Aussie Durif nearby, making a few firsts for Joe's Wine - my first Mexican wine, my first Aussie Durif and my first blog entry in the Petite Sirah category. The wines were decanted and served blind.

Mexico? I actually thought it was Californian on the website, but realized my mistake when I got to the store. Could the land of tequila take one of California's signature grapes and make something nice at 12 bucks? The 2004 L.A. Cetto Petite Sirah (100%) comes from the Valle de Guadalupe in Baja, Mexico. Dark cherry red in the glass, it was pleasant - but simple - on the nose, with some black cherry, vanilla and faint floral scents. On the palate was jammy fruit, supported by gripping tea-like tannins, but light on acidity and a bit "hot". Smooth, rich, it had decent length and could probably be cellared. At less than $12 this was a steal, and should be a serious consideration in the "fruity New World" category for upcoming holiday parties. Great Value!
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 15/20
Price: $11.95 (SAQ)

Like the Cetto above, the 2005 Deen de Bortoli Vat 1 Durif was chosen because it was easily accessible. Dark cherry red, this wine showed a much more interesting nose - black cherry, smoke, leather, wet fur, and leafy/woodsy notes, very nice. Dry, with fresh acidity, pretty cherry fruit, and velvety tannins, this was a luscious and classy pour. Short finish, drink now.
screw top. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: $17.50 (SAQ)

Overall, I was a bit disappointed that I couldn't get a California Petite Sirah in here, but then I would never have discovered Mexico. Olé! Going into this I thought the wines would be tannic and alcoholic fruit bombs, brutes. The tannins in these bottles were soft and palatable, and the alcohol was lower than I expected. Still fruit bombs, but enjoyable sippers.

Thanks, Sonadora, for pulling me out of shell. I never go back in.

2005 de Villaine "Les Clous" - WBW #39

Domaine de Villaine has a commanding lead for Joe's 2007 "Winery of the Year" award: three for three, with high scores today, and previously for a white (1) and a red (2) - all at prices under $33 (tax in).

Brooklynguy is the host for tonight's Wine Blogging Wednesday, "Silver Burgundy". My selection is the 2005 Domaine de Villaine "Les Clous", a Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise made from Chardonnay grown in the Bouzeron appelation. A deep, deep, gold in the glass, and very aromatic - it started all floral - lavender - with a good dose of honey, apricot, fresh-picked ripe apples, butter and a hint of sweet cinnamon. Very elegant on the palate, perhaps thin while still cold, but very flavourul, crisp and minerally as it warmed. What can I say? Another great de Villaine outing. I usually refrain from shouting "Great Value!" over the $20 price point, but I can't help myself tonight.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: $26 (SAQ)

From my tastings of de Villaine's Bouzeron wines, it is clear that serving them at refrigerator temperature is plain wrong - they open up and come alive over 10 Celsius. Do not overly chill these and you will be rewarded with flavourful wines revealing breathtaking bouquets.

I promised more Burgundy in 2007, so thanks to Neil for kicking my butt and hosting a Burgundy-focused evening. Check out his site for more Silver Burgundy reviews from other bloggers.

Cheers!

WBW#37 - Wines You Never Drink...

...From Places You've Never Been, Made From Grapes You've Never Heard Of
That's my alternate title for Dr. Vino's WBW#37 - "Go native!". After all, that is really the purpose of this week's WBW - Tyler wants us to break out of our ruts and try something REALLY different. With South West France on the mind and the Good Professor offering bonus points, I couldn't resist drinking two Tannat-based wines this evening:

2001 Chateau D'Aydie (Madiran, France)
2002 Bodegas Carrau "AMAT" (Uruguay)

Ok, so you heard it here first, Uruguay is an up and coming wine region. Overshadowed by Argentina and Chile, and unloved because of its bet on Tannat, I fearlessly predict that Tannat will do for Uruguay what Malbec has done for Argentina. Read on....

The 2002 Bodegas Carrau AMAT is a fabulous, interesting wine. A deep, cherry red in the glass, I put the glass to my nose and .... smiled, a big, fabulous, Cheshire cat grin. Cool and right out of the decanter, it smelled rich and chocolatey with dark cherry fruit. Then I let it warm up and oxygenate - leather, mushroom, earth, pepper, tobacco and smoke. On the palate this rich, full-bodied, wine presented powerful velvety tannins that danced across the tongue - omnipresent, but not overpowering. Brooding, complex, interesting, and only slighty rough around the edges, this wine is tempting now but should be cellared for a few more years. Long after the wine has gone I am still sniffing the glass and smiling...mmmm, THIS is Tannat.
14% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$21 (SAQ)

The 2001 Chateau D'Aydie comes from Madiran, a region in South West France and the "home" of the Tannat grape. A dense, dark purple in the glass, this wine has to be decanted carefully, as it threw off a mountain of sludge. More delicate on the nose and definitely showing the elevated alcohol, I thought this signfied that the wine was not 100% Tannat, but the label assured me that my nose deceived me. Bone dry and 'hotter' on the palate, this medium-bodied tannat was more off-balance than the AMAT, but the acidity and tannins were a nice match for the olive and pasta dinner. It may benefit from a few years in the cellar, but I am not sure it has enough "stuffing" to go the distance. Nice, but disappointing at this price - for a few bucks less you can have the AMAT above (or a Bouscasse), or for a few more you can enjoy the heavenly Montus.
14.5% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$29 (SAQ)

Given the price and score, I have to recommend the Uruguayan Tannat, which is growing up very well in its new home. Please do try one of these!

For Tyler: In lieu of Bonus Points for the new/old world presentation of a freaky grape, I humbly accept your attendance at a tasting with Brooklynguy and I on Nov. 4th...Cheers!

2006 Kim Crawford Marlborough Unoaked Chardonnay

The theme for this month's WBW is Naked (i.e. Unoaked) Chardonnay. It is an interesting pendulum in the wine world that has swung from too much oak to none at all. Personally, I am not fussed by 'oaked' or 'unoaked' - these are simply terms like 'dry' and 'off dry' - words to help me determine the ultimate pairing for the wine and not any comment on the quality of the wine. Compare an oaky New World Chardonnay to a oaky Chablis and you will see that the presence or absence of oak is not the defining feature of the wine (although HOW it is used may be...)

But I digress. I like both, if they are well made, and tonight's wine is exactly what I like to see in an unoaked Chardonnay. The 2006 Kim Crawford Marlborough Unoaked Chardonnay aromatic, with lemon toast and pineapple, quite minerally, simple but pleasing. On the palate it was very flavourful, with the fruit expressing itself well, followed by a crisp, bitter, minerally aftertaste. Very well balanced, this is a wine to enjoy today, right now, in all of its naked glory.
13.5% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$18.95 (SAQ)

I am certain that my selection tonight will be replicated many times over, for the simple reason that I COULDN'T FIND ANY OTHERS! This was truly the only Chardonnay marked unoaked in town. Sadly, a slight deviation from American Wine Month at Joe's.

Thanks, once again, to Lenn - father of WBW and the host of WBW #36. Cheers!

WBW #35: Passionate Spain

Think back to when you were a child. Your favourite food may have been hot dogs or Kraft dinner, you probably drank apple juice or milk, and you probably loved Mars or Snickers bars.

Then you got older.

You started buying specialty sausages with vegetables and curry. You started trying Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, Japanese, Indian, Mexican and Moroccan dishes. Instead of apple juice you may be drinking Pomegranate and Mango Juice, or San Pellegrino instead of Milk. You munch on Lindt chocolates instead of a Snickers. As you have matured your tastes changed, and many of you became more adventurous.

And so it is with wine. As my vinuous tastes have evolved, the 10$ rack has become less and less appealing to me. I value complexity over volume, flavour over alcohol - give me a half bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape and keep your box of Aussie Shiraz! It is not snobbery - I don't look down on Vin de Table (there are numerous reviews on this site), but I use VdT as a tool (like that Snickers in the vending machine). I just plain seek more from a wine than I used to.

So where the heck am I going with this? Michele and Kevin have graciously agreed to host WBW#35, focusing on Spanish wine, preferably under US$10. Despite my comments above, I was very excited by this tasting. Why? Because my most successful wines in this price range have all been Spanish. Michele and Kevin are on to something, and value conscious consumers should take note.
I decided to blog the 2005 Torres Sangre de Toro tonight, but not because of the cute little bull dangling from the neck of the bottle (I love that little guy...). This was my one of my early favourites when I first 'got into' wine. It seems so long ago that this was my go-to, can't-lose wine. So many fantastic wine memories standing between me and my last bottle of Sangre de Toro - how would it show?

Ruby red port in hue, I remembered this Grenache blend from Catalunya as being a more deep, dense, purple - "Bull's Blood", as per the label. Very little on the nose - alcohol, coffee grounds, vague scents of dark berries. On the palate it was simple and light-bodied, with some blackberry fruit and good acidity, but somewhat unbalanced due to the noticeable alcohol. No length, and not showing typical Grenache scents and flavours. Slightly different from my memory (a big, powerfully fruity wine), it seems to have been finessed, softened, for the 2005 vintage. Overall, a competent Vin de Table, but nothing more. A good match for spaghetti and meat sauce, and a pretty good value.
13.5% alcohol
Score: 13/20
Price: C$12.60 (US$12, tax in)

Epilogue: Unfortunately, this vintage of Sangre de Toro did not highlight the potential for greatness that exists in inexpensive Spanish wine. Check out my Spanish Great Values piece (especially the Castano Hecula or Dominio Espinal) for some good houses/labels, or see my review of the Campobarro Tempranillo here.

Thanks to Lenn for organizing WBW, and check out the My Wine Education site for Michele and Kevin's summary of other WBW finds in inexpensive Spanish wine. Cheers!

WBW #34 - 2003 L'Ecole No. 41 Cabernet Sauvignon

How could I resist participating in WBW #34? I love Cabernet Sauvignon and I have virtually no tasting experience with Washington State...I'm in! Slim pickings here in Montreal, unfortunately - apparently the ATF is patrolling the border preventing those shifty Canucks from buying up WA Cabernets - not even a Columbia Crest to be found. Perhaps it was a the French name on tonight's wine, L'Ecole No. 41, that allowed this WA treasure to get past the dragnet and into my gullet.

L'Ecole No. 41 is a winery in WWWWW's favourite WA region, the Walla Walla Valley and famous for a number of top cuvees, including its Perigee and Apogee blends. In the glass the 2003 L'Ecole No. 41 Cabernet Sauvignon displayed a cherry red colour that was rather paler than the Napa Cabs I have tasted over the years. A beautiful nose, starting with cocoa, violets, roses, and ripe strawberries, giving up additional aromas of pepper, cloves and vanilla, with a nice smokey finish. On the palate this unfiltered wine was very structured and elegant at first, with crisp acidity, but became slightly flabby over the evening and showing the alcohol. Medium-bodied with smooth tannins and a lengthy finish, this is ready now or may keep for a few more years. Very enjoyable, and a nice match for a grilled pork tenderloin.
13.9% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$41

Hats off to the Walla Walla Wine Woman, and to Lenn for starting WBW. I took advantage of this rare local offering of WA greats to buy some Perigee, Apogee, Semillon and the Ferguson - stay tuned!

WBW #33 - 2004 Domaine La Tour Vieille "La Pinede"

The Languedoc-Roussillon (1,2) chapter in Parker's Wine Buyer's Guide (6th Ed.) has the sub-heading "Where the Quality and the Values Are", and gushes about the Midi:

"...one of the undiscovered bastions of delicious, value-priced wines. Its relative importance to consumers continues to increase as wine prices from many of the world's best-know regions have reached absurd levels."

Well said, and it was these comments, combined with a rather good selection of Midi wines at the local monopoly, that led me to start my wine adventures in the Languedoc.

In that vein, I must commend Marcus for focusing the wine blogosphere on "Mid-priced wines from the Midi", as well as his rather extensive supporting info for the uninitiated.

My choice came to me by 'chance'. After agonizing for weeks over what to open for WBW 33 (yes, I do that sort of thing), my brother-in-law brought over a wine from Collioure, the 2004 Domaine La Tour Vieille 'La Pinède'. Having recently returned from the Midi, he told me how he loved the wines, and having stayed close to Collioure he thought he'd bring this wine over to share. I assume he meant I was supposed to share it with him...

In the glass this youngster displayed a dense, dark purple hue. On the nose this blend of 75% Grenache and 25% Carignan lead with butterscotch and stawberries, followed by cocoa, cedar, undergrowth, and wet fur, also showing a minty/nail polish remover finish. Very nice, very interesting. On the palate this dry, full-bodied red was very smooth and balanced. Inky, with chocolatey strawberries that concealed firm tannins, La Pinede had mild acidity and a short finish indicating that this wine is ready for drinking. A bit heavy on the alcohol, and a bit too much for the pasta in a goat cheese rose sauce, I would suggest this wine for sipping all by itself, or with some lamb off the grill.
14.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Cost: C$24 (SAQ)

Thanks, Marcus! And thanks to Lenn of Lenndevours for inventing WBW.

WBW #32 - Montus vs. Montus

I will be travelling this week, so I had to post early.

This week's Wine Blogging Wednesday, hosted by Billy of The Wine Cask Blog, hit on a great theme - Regular vs. Reserve wines. Are we getting our money's worth?

WBW #32 called for: same winery, same vintage, different price point. To narrow my potential choices, I worked with an additional restraint - with my cellar bursting at the seams, I had to use something on hand. Diving into my trusty excel spreadsheet, I discovered three potential combos:

- 2001 Chateau Lagrezette vs. the pricey "Cuvee Dame Honneur"
- 2003 Domain Grand Veneur vs. the "Cuvee des Generations"
- 2001 Montus vs. the Cuvee Prestige

In the end, I decided the Montus option was less expensive than the Lagrezette option, and the Grand Veneur was just not ready.

To make this a true test, the wines were decanted an hour before I began scoring and tasted blind.

The plain vanilla 2001 Chateau Montus was started extremely well - on the nose it was wild and gamey, and backed up by leather, musk, cloves, cocoa, vanilla, with a hint of clover. Divine! Well balanced, rich, and chocolatey with velvety tannins. Ready now, but may yet improve with some more bottle age. This was an elegant with a VERY long finish. (Blind, I scored it a half point below my December review).
Score: 18/20
Price: C$32

A 1998 Cuvee Prestige was my first exposure to this esteemed Madiran house, and it has obviously had an impact on me. The 2001 Chateau Montus Cuvee Prestige was from a better vintage, so I had high hopes that this wine would trounce the basic Montus offering. On the nose the wines were very similar, both with gamey, earthy, cocoa aromas, with the Prestige also showing a more smokey and nutty nose. A tossup so far. The first taste of this wine was awkward and very tannic. It softened over the course of the evening, showing a similar richness and complexity to the regular Cuvee, but remained tannic and off balance. I scored it a half point below the basic Montus, but as it opened over the evening I noted that there is something about this wine that screams "come back in a few years!". I predict a future showdown...
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$54

There was food, of course, and both of these wines were harmoniously matched to our first barbequed steak of the season.

So, to answer Billy's question, the answer is no - the pricier Cuvee Prestige was not worth the extra C$22 today. But I think the Prestige has some secrets yet to be revealed, so a future rematch is inevitable.

Note: For a different take on Montus, have a look at Nilay's review of the basic 2001 Montus.

Cheers!