2008 Clos de Gat Har'el Merlot

Such a terrific nose on this 2008 Clos de Gat Har'el Merlot - sweet cocoa, ripe black cherries, cooked meat, black pepper, and a hint of green pepper... later pencil shavings and damp earth. Crisp cherries and crushed velvet tannins envelop the palate and linger for an impressive finish. Incredibly balanced, flavourful, and complex - a little more acidity would have held it together perfectly, but still the nicest Merlot I've had in ages. Bravo!
Cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$29 (LCBO)

2005 Chateau Tour des Termes

On the nose are smokey ripe blackberries and violets, flint, cedar and a hint of anise. Ample fruit, but the fruit doesn't dominate the palate, as the young, grainy tannins and nice minerality keep everything in balance and hold it together. Decent length, and still firm after a few hours in the decanter - good for a few more years in the cellar, but probably not dramatically longer. A gift from my buddy Guy, perfect with a grilled flank steak.
AOC Saint-Estèphe, 60% Merlot/40% Cab Sauv

Cork. 13.5% alcohol.
Score: 17/20
Price: gift

Washington State Merlot: 2003 Wilridge Merlot Red Mountain Klipsun Vineyards

We don't get much wine from Washington State in Montreal, so when my travels took me to Seattle I thought I'd sample some of the local offerings. Seattle's Tasting Room, located in the Pike Place market, had a quaint, but serious ambience - perfect for an extended stay, but I only had time to grab a few bottles and run....

The staff was rather busy serving tasting customers and didn't offer much assistance with the wines on offer, so I was left to random picks and some customer suggestions (lots of helpful winos there!). Tonight's Merlot made it into the bag as I have taken to buying wine in reverse order of alcohol content, and this 13.7% bottling was probably the lowest alcohol red in the shop (and conveniently selling at a large discount to the rest of the offerings).

The 2003 Wilridge Merlot Red Mountain Klipsun Vineyards was a wonderful surprise, with fresh, earthy fruit, green pepper, milk chocolate and cassis on the nose. Spicy, and a bit rough around the edges at first - a shag carpet of tannins - but it sorted itself out with some air. Smooth, balanced, a nice long finish...a lot of heart put into this. And this merlot did NOT taste 7 years old, still fresh and vibrant, it never got flabby. Cellarworthy? A rare question at this price point - wish I had some more to find out!
cork. 13.7% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: US$19 (Tasting Room Seattle)

2008 Moulin de Gassac "Elise"

"Un Vin Comme Autrefois" declares the label of the 2008 Moulin de Gassac "Elise" Vielles Vignes, a Merlot-Syrah blend from the Vin de Pays de l'Hérault appellation. A mouthwatering nose of ripe blackberries enveloped by a distinct, green earthiness, with some vanilla and new leather added later on. Soft and grainy, with a smokey, flinty finish. A terrific wine for decanting, the oxygen helped this open very nicely over the evening - blinded this wine could fool many into thinking they were drinking a much more expensive wine.
Cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$15.45 (SAQ)

Another Christmas Party Wine Mystery

For our Christmas Party each year (1,2) I decant and serve four red wines blind, asking my guests to use their intuitions and "guess" which wine is which, typically by providing clues about the grape or region. An incredibly simple concept, but extraordinarily difficult (and humbling) in reality - even for the experts. But what a marvelous way to get people thinking about, and talking about, wine!

This year's selections:

2007 Falesco Vitiano (Umbria, Italy)
2007 Wolf Blass Cabernet Sauvignon Yellow Label (South Australia)
2006 Montecillo Crianza (Rioja, Spain)
2007 Alamos Malbec Seleccion Especial (Mendoza, Argentina)

The rationale for tonight's picks? Excellent price to quality for their respective styles, based on personal experience, and sufficiently different grapes and winemaking styles to make the guessing a bit easier....

Unfortunately, nobody correctly identified all four wines - in fact only two guests picked two of four correctly. I blame the Vitiano mainly - 1/3 each of Merlot, Cabernet and Sangiovese it came across more modern and approachable for an "Old World" wine and displayed no definitive "Italian-ness". Adding to our intrepid wine detectives' misery, the Wolf Blass was very reserved and came across as a reserved, "Old World", wine.

Yes, the wines were not easy to triangulate, but at least the wines were pretty darn good overall - no duds tonight, as in previous years. (It shouldn't be much of a surprise, I suppose, as most of these wines frequently appear on "best value" lists)

It was interesting to note that all of the wines were 13.5% alcohol - not low, but certainly NOT the elevated alcohol we see with too many entry level wines these days. Less surprising for the Rioja, perhaps, but an Argentine Malbec? Wonderful to see.

There was some debate as to whether the Falesco was better than the Montecillo., but in the end both of those decanters drained equally quickly. (the true test)

All in all a great evening, and nobody had a bad glass of wine - that's the "Joe Guarantee®"

1999 Hacienda Monasterio

How can a bottle so brimming with joy bring me so much sadness?

It was last call for my 1999 Hacienda Monasterio Crianza (Ribera del Duero), a Tempranillo (70%) with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Notes of earthy, damp forest undergrowth, cherries and coffee grounds, almonds, roses and ferns wave a tearful goodbye, while crisp, spicy, peppery cherries, silky tannins and a fine chalky texture sensually kiss the palate, an interminable goodbye...my last bottle - gone, my love, but never to be forgotten (1, 2, 3, 4) ...
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$38 (SAQ)

Note: This wine has also earned a mention on my Top 50 list, but sadly the latest vintage sold out at a price DOUBLE what I paid for this. I shoulda kept my mouth shut...

1999 in Bordeaux: a Pessac Leognan and a St-Emilion

When I first started collecting the wines of Bordeaux I lived for the vintage reports. The problem is that vintage reports are an overall, or "average", view of mother nature's gifts over a broad geography. When you use these reports for a large region like Bordeaux, you are bound to pick up few clunkers in a great vintage and a few gems in an "off" vintage - vintage reports are pretty good guide, but you can never be to sure.

For example, tonight's two wines were excellent, despite coming from a difficult 1999 vintage that was not notable for late season rains and rot that apparently plagued many producers.

Tasted here before (1,2), the 1999 Chateau Carbonnieux (Pessac Leognan) served up musty, woodsy, black cherries, later rewarding us with some basil, thyme and pencil shavings. Blinded I was thinking it was the St-Emilion - soft and velvety smooth...its elegance nearly masking an enduring finish of wet, black earth. Deliciously Bordeaux.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$65 (SAQ)

On my right was another repeat, the 1999 Moulin St-Georges (St-Emilion). A glassful of toasty new oak, old leather and black cherries to sniff, a chameleon as it shifted and changed over the evening. Spicy, crisp blackberries on the palate over substantial tannins, which presented this offering as a touch more awkward. Greater presence and complexity, but a touch rougher around the edges - in a very good way.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$65 (LCBO)

A Sip of Long Island: Bedell Cellars

Long Island Wine is, for the most part, a local delicacy. With just 3000 acres under vine and an annual production of 500,000 cases you won't find much wine leaving the country, and it would probably be a rare wine shop that carried any sort of selection outside of New York and the neighbouring states.

But a wedding on Shelter Island put me a stone's throw away from Long Island's North Fork wineries. I regret to inform that this was NOT a wine tour - the wife and kids made sure of that - but I did have time for one stop, and local knowledge directed me to Bedell Cellars.

I coughed up 12$ for the "Premium" Flight, and this was how it went:

The 2007 Bedell Chardonnay Reserve was steel and oak aged - oaky, buttery, ripe red apple, with some wet stones, almost caramelly on the nose. Lighter bodied, tart and pleasing, short finish. 13% alcohol, Score: 16/20

The 2007 Bedell Gallery was an interesting blend of Chardonnay (69%), Sauvignon blanc (19%), and Viognier. Fleeting floral notes on the nose, probably from the viognier, but tangy citrussy and apricot aromas dominate, some toast. Terribly well balanced, and more flavourful than the Chardonnay, delicious spicy fruit... 13% alcohol, Score: 16.5/20

Long Island is famous for its Merlot (a grape getting a lot more play at Joe's house these days...), so I wasn't going to miss Bedell's red offerings:

The 2007 "Taste" Red was a blend of Merlot (56%), Cab Sauv (25%) and Syrah. Noticeably green and earthy at first, pretty violets, cedar and a hint of dark syrah berries on the nose. A spicy palate with tasty green tannins and gooseberries, a light- to medium-bodied everyday red. 13% alcohol, Score: 16/20

A whiff of the 2006 Bedell Reseve Merlot revealed smokey, dark earth, new leather, blackberries and vanilla, maybe some charcuterie - nicely done! Gritty, dark fruit, a good balance between fruit and acid, very Bordeaux like. This tastes too young - it has the acid, tannin and fruit to keep, I would age this one. 13% alcohol, Score: 17/20

The winery's signature offering was the 2006 Musée, predominantly Merlot (75%), but with some Cab Sauv (13%) and Petit Verdot blended in. Lovely aromas of green herbs, blackberries and roses, damp earth and crisp cherries, chalky... Soft and fruity on the palate, but with dense, velvety tannins, and a nice long finish. Lush, complex and very well balanced. 13% alcohol, Score 17.5/20

Overall, the offerings were very well done across the board, even those sips I had from my wife's flight of entry-level wines (the 2007 Merlot was particularly notable as a great value).

I would not dare make any generalizations about Long Island wine based on a 2 hour stop at a single winery, but I think I can say this - nearly every wine I tasted or saw in local shops was 1% to 1.5% lower in alcohol than their California bretheren. Perhaps it is climate, or a conscious effort to be "different" from their West Coast winemaking peers, but this observation and the wines that I tasted tell me that something different is going on in Long Island - and this "different" is more in line with the kind of wine I am seeking out these days...

PS - Congrats Rob (my Napa and Sonoma partner in crime) and Ellyn!

2005 Tabernero Gran Tinto Reserve

My bro-in-law has a philosophy that if there is a wine on the shelf at the SAQ that doesn't make sense, it is probably good. Case in point - who in Montreal goes trolling around the Peruvian wine section looking for $15 Malbec/Merlot? After all, the SAQ is one of the world's largest wine buyers - it must have been good to make it onto their shelf, especially since the product profile is not an obvious sell, right?

The logic seems to fly tonight, as the 2005 Tabernero Gran Tinto Reserve (50:50 Malbec Merlot) was a pretty darn good wine, especially at this price. It started with a powerfully funky, nose - we couldn't agree on barnyardy or sour milk, but that odour blew off before we were finished the debate, and the wine opened up to reveal dark berries, black pepper, old oak and hints of vanilla. Dry, with dense berry fruit and a decent finish, it was maybe lacking acidity and almost a bit too spicy. More Malbec than Merlot, a tasty wine for my first ever Peruvian.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 15.5/20
Price: C$14.60 (SAQ)

2003 Vray Croix de Gay

It is a rare evening when I pull two 18+ point wines from my cellar (also enjoyed this evening), but with two members of my wine group coming by for a drink I had to dig deep, and Pomerol is deep ($$$, that is). The pricing for Pomerol offerings is such that I have very few, so I was actually surprised to find this resting at the bottom of one of my Bordeaux bins.

The 2003 Chateau Vray Croix de Gay demonstrated exactly why Pomerols are so pricey, and further added to a suspicion that merlot is my new love...An absolutely gorgeous nose, brimming with rose petals and sandalwood, wild stawberries and damp forest, dark cocoa powder and leather, nuts (almonds) and plums...I could open another bottle just to smell this again. Fresh and well balanced on the palate, with a long, silky finish. A joy to drink, and a greater joy knowing I have two more bottles in my cellar.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$85 (LCBO futures)

2006 Tait "The Ball Buster"

Gimmicky names are a turn off for me, so when I was gifted this 2006 Tait "The Ball Buster" I kinda stuck it away in the cellar and forgot about it. A mistake, actually. This Barossa (78% Shiraz, 12% Cab, 10% Merlot) lived up to its name, with a big nose of blackberries, violets, leafy tobacco, some slate and very toasty oak. A big wallop of very spicy, smokey, big cherry fruit, but with some complexity and velvety tannins that held it together quite nicely - even that massive alcohol level was not overly obtrusive. Not everyone's cup of tea, but a thoroughly well-made, modern-styled, Aussie Shiraz if that is what you seek.
screw top. 15.7% alcohol
Score: 17/20 Price: gift

Uber IGTs: A Tour of Italy's Most Expensive "Table Wine"

Eden's night of Tuscan wines was a prelude to a show-stopping, Uber-Tuscan night of over-the-top wines: Masseto, Sassicaia, Ornellaia....

Yes, our first IGT (Italian "table wines") night delivered an impressive slate of wines (even if the best wines were not IGT...) but what I really liked about this evening was the narrow score distribution - I think the group would agree that this may have been the narrowest distribution of scores in one of our grand tastings, which led to lots of debate and no consistency in the rank orders. But out of this disorder I managed to glean the following notes:

Well, it wasn't even close - with four first place and two second place rankings Cosme's 2001 Ornellaia (65% Cab Sauv, 30% Merlot, Cab Franc) was the clear winner. But wait, it's not an IGT? No one complained, as this 'Bolgheri DOC Superiore' wowed with an beautiful and exquisitely complex nose - clearly Bordeaux-like, with spicy oak and dark fruit, layers and layers of aromas...violets and roses, sour cherries and white pepper, leather and cloves with some underlying green pepper and vegetal notes. Soft and silky on the palate, very easy to enjoy today but I felt it was touch flabbier and unstructured vs. the others, and that became more evident as the evening progressed. Score: 18/20

Cosme took the silver as well, bringing a 1999 Sassicaia (85% Cab Sauv, Cab Franc) that ranked close behind the Ornellaia, but got there very differently. Another Bolgheri (didn't somebody tell him it was IGT night?), I did NOT like the way this one started out from the decanter - a heavy dose of sulphury oak at first sniff, it took a while to blow off and reveal some sour cherries, old leather, later some green pepper and notes of cheese rind. Powerfully built, pounding the palate with dense tannins and a finish that lasted all night. All power and no finesse today, but this is still in its youth and I predict great things when this bottle finally sorts itself out. Score: 18.5/20

We had a tie for third place, so I will start with what was probably the greatest value of the night. Cam's 2000 Ghiaie della Furba (Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah), at C$41, was half the price of the next cheapest wine, yet was probably the softest, silkiest, and best balanced of the night, a combination of great winemaking and optimal bottle age coming together perfectly. Less complex than the others, and all ready peaking, but at this price? Score: 18.5/20 (one of my Top Cellar Picks)

Pramod's 2000 Flaccianello was deceptively good, and I wonder if another few hours in the decanter would have put it in first place instead of third. Classic Sangiovese tobacco notes mingled with sour cherries and spearmint, liquorice and black pepper, some vegetal notes. Tangy and spicy with an incredibly long finish, I am so glad I have a cellar full of this stuff. Score: 18/20

Lloyd brought a legendeary wine from a less than than legendary vintage, the 2002 Masseto. Fashioned from 100% Merlot, it delivered a nose of violets, ripe strawberry compote, and some smokey vanilla. Crisp and full-bodied, but not overbearing, with velvety tannins and a flavourful, long finish. I expected from one of the worlds most expensive merlot bottlings to be kinder, gentler...but the score kept creeping up over the evening. Score: 18/20

My 2000 Serpico, made from the Aglianico grape, was easy to spot - clearly not Cabernet or Sangiovese, but my "nekulturny" friends did not like this so you can take my notes with a grain of salt. To be fair the nose was simple - flinty prunes and some floral notes - but luxurious, tangy tannins and a very long finish made this a joy for me. Maybe I won't share my Aglianico any more...Score 18/20

Many thanks to Pramod and Sofia, perfectly setting up these wines with a spread fit for kings (including a rather tasty, but ominously named fatty meat called "lardo"), and to the gang for really digging deep into the cellar for a creative flight of wine.

Cheers!

No Joke: 2007 Dan Akroyd Cabernet Merlot

Expectations play a big part in our enjoyment of wine. Presented with a Canadian red wine, produced by a comedian famous for his roles in such classics as Ghostbusters and Trading Places, well...let's just say the expectations were very low...

It was hard not to be impressed by the 2007 Dan Aykroyd Cabernet Merlot (Niagara), especially considering the price point. Green pepper and smokey blackberries on the nose, a light, crisp (good acidity), and earthy palate...no depth, but definitely not jammy, no rough edges...reminded me of a well-made entry-level Bordeaux. I'm thinking "steak-frites" would pair beautifully. Did I say this was less than $15? I will be buying again.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$14.85 (SAQ)

Hats off to a good Kingston boy, putting his name on a nice bottle of wine!

Two Takes on Mendoza: Norton Privada and Clos de los Siete

Digging though my cellar I noticed two takes on Medoza's 2005 vintage from two of the better winemakers - one, a modern-styled Malbec, the other a more traditional blended wine.

The 2005 Clos de Los Siete shows trademark Michel Rolland (a part owner in this project) - dark cocoa and black cherries on the nose, a strong dose of violet, some blueberry, black pepper, and flint. Soft and voluptuous on the palate, with dense velvety tannins and nice spicy, long finish. A nice wine, but a style I have moved away from over the years.
cork. 15% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$24 (SAQ)

I have to admit I was more excited about the 2005 Norton Privada, a blend of Cabernet, Malbec, and Merlot (typically the three grapes are nearly equal in the blend), simply because I knew what I was going to get with the Clos de Los Siete but with this I had no idea (it has been years since I had a Privada). Impressive, and quite different on the nose, with pipe tobacco, vanilla and white pepper, fresh blackberries, almondy and a hint of perfume. Spicy and crisp on the palate with terrific balance, a tremendous wine at this price point and certainly good for a few more years in the cellar.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$23.30 (SAQ)

A Grand Tasting of California Cabernets

Looking back over the past few years of tastings it is hard to believe that I have been the "ringleader" for our wine group - I mean, I never EVER win these tastings. Remember the old saying "even a blind squirrel sometimes finds a nut"? Well, in our blinded tastings my wines have been road kill.

Well, that's not really true - my Cesare Ornato was the best at the November tasting - at least I thought so, but I was unblinded so my self-proclaimed victory was hollow. But tonight was extra special because it was the real deal - a blinded, head to head cab-fest featuring some truly legendary California wines...and I won!

Ranked 1st or 2nd by two-thirds of the tasters, the 2003 Cardinale (86% Cabernet, Merlot) was obviously chosen by a sophisticated oenophile with a superior palate. A subtle nose, quite closed at first, later opening to reveal beautifully balanced violet, black pepper, leather and blackberries. But the nose was a pretty accessory to an astonishing palate - nice dense fruit and a very fine, velvety, long, long finish. It didn't jump out at us so much as it crept up and enveloped the group with incredible complexity and finesse. Did I mention that I won? Score: 18.5/20

There was considerable enthusiasm for Ash's 2002 Heitz Cellar Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, (100% Cabernet, organic) Ash adding to his string of successes since rejoining our wine group last year. A more interesting nose than the Cardinale, with flinty eucalyptus, violets, currants and black cherries, but just a touch jammy at the end of the night which pushed it into second place for me. Delicate, classy, and showing some age on the palate, a beautiful wine. Score: 18.5/20

There was little separation amongst the top 3 wines, with Lloyd's 1997 Joseph Phelps Insignia (83% Cab, 14% Merlot, Petit Verdot) close behind the Cardinale and Heitz in the rankings. Black cherries and mushrooms on the nose, earthy/flinty notes as well, some mint - pretty, maybe simpler than some of the others. Very nicely balanced with a very, very long finish...elegance. Score: 18/20

Further back was Cam's 2003 Juslyn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain Estate (85% Cabernet, 8% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot, Petit Verdot). Quite different from the others, with a lovely meaty nose, wet stones as well, a touch jammy and hot as the night wore on. A nice lengthy, meaty finish on the palate. Score: 17.5/20

Tied for fifth and sixth were Pramod's 2001 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Cosme's 2004 Peter Michael "Les Pavots". I quite liked the Montelena (Score: 17.5/20) - rubbery liquorice, black earth and white pepper on the nose, crisp cherry fruit and silky tannins on the palate, just a shorter finish than the greats above pushing it down a notch for me, but I liked it more than most the gang (I always love Chateau Montelena). The surprising result for me was the near last place finish for the Peter Michael (Score: 17/20), as the "Les Pavots" consistently wins accolades. Gobs of ripe, dark fruit on the nose, vanilla and violets as well. A very nice, long finish with dense tannins, just too fruity and too jammy for our group.

Unfortunately Chris' 2003 Neal Family Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain Estate was corked - a shame, as there was such a nice velvety texture to the wine. I think each and every one of us has had a corker now.

So, if any of you start "Google-ing" these wines you will find that they are, for the most part, expensive and rare - a true who's who of California and a terrific flight to really get a sense of what it's like at the top ends of the price/quality spectra.

A terrific night! Many thanks to our hosts, Cosme and Rebecca (the tenderloin was a smashing idea).

Next up, IGT-fest!

The Lost Files: 2000 Avignonesi Desiderio

The "Lost Files" are those pictures of wine bottles on my hard drive that have no associated tasting note. But in this case my notes were unearthed while cleaning out my bedside table drawer - such a beautiful wine that I couldn't resist posting this, spring bottle shot (opened on Mother's Day last May) and all.

My notes on the 2000 Avignonesi Desiderio (85% Merlot, rest Cabernet Sauvignon) describe a complex nose of dark cherry and peppery plums, minty espresso beans, cherry blossom, black earth, liquorice and tar - lots going on here. On the palate it was terribly awkward at first - a powerful, robust and flavourful wine featuring dense tannins, good fruit and acidity, but it took four hours in the decanter to settle down and come together - but when it did, WOW. This is a wine that has the stuffing to go the distance - very sorry I opened it so young.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: ~C$80 (LCBO)

PS: despite its youth, this wine was a winner at a group tasting nearly four years ago. At that time I recommended "drink now" but that is clearly wrong - it may work after a long decant, but you really should set this aside.

2004 Chateau St. Thomas

A fellow Montrealer, Fadi, connects with me once in a while. Recently, in response to my post on the Chateau Kefraya "Comte de M", he suggested another pricey Lebanese wine:

The 2004 Chateau St. Thomas starts with leathery, black earth and ripe, dark cherries (rather characteristic for the Lebanese wines I have tasted), but remained closed for some time. A healthy dose of oxygen liberated some additional aromas later that evening: gamey meat, violets and fresh cut wild flowers, some compote and pencil shavings - very compelling. Heavy on the palate at first, very dense dark fruit with nice, green tannins and very long finish that hints at further development (but drinking well now). One sentence? Kinda like someone poured a ripe vintage Northern Rhone into my Bordeaux. Those "medals" adorning the bottle seem well-deserved -very impressive, thanks Fadi.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$24.20 (SAQ)

Endnote: my wife has a four point rating system for wine:

(1) "Oh, I don't like this"
(2) No comment
(3) "Yes" (when prompted "do you like this?"), and
(4) "Oooooh, I LIKE this..." (unprompted)

Based on this we have a four-pointer tonight.

2005 Mascaron par Ginestet

I love it when friends bring gifts of wine, especially when it is one of their personal treasures - critics and shopkeepers aren't the only ones to make great finds!

Tonight we go to Bordeaux for my first taste of the famed 2005 vintage, a gift from my good friend Eric. Eric has been raving about the 2005 Mascaron par Ginestet, and for good reason - lovely violet, currant and blackberry notes leap out of the glass, some prunes and an earthy greenness in there as well. Terrific on the palate, with really nice density, a velvety texture, juicy fruit, minerally black earth and a lingering finish. This Merlot (60%)/Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) blend is a big winner at this price point, and a reflection of just how good 2005 was for Bordeaux. Give it a short decant or stick it away for 2-3 years.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$17.80 (SAQ)

1999 Elderton CSM

It is a great feeling when you grab something from the cellar that has been sitting for a few years - the perfect day has arrived! Purchased in 2004, this lonely bottle of 1999 Elderton CSM (Cabernet, Shiraz, Merlot) was opened to celebrate...well, nothing actually, I just wanted to impress my in-laws. Big, black pepper and blueberry aromas, tarry flinty notes, a late greenness, cedar and a hint of violet. Crisp acid danced on the tongue and silky, woodsy tannins coat the palate and remain for minutes. Flavourful, reserved, and a judicious use of oak for a Barossa - a tragedy I didn't buy more of this.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$39.95 (LCBO)

PS - Elderton has changed the name of this offering to "Ode to Lorraine" in 2002.

Mini Vertical #8: Steltzner Claret

Steltzner's Claret is, in my opinion, one of Napa's great values. In a region where the entry price for decent cab is usually over 50 bucks, Steltzner continues to surprise with such a well made wine at this price point. Unfortunately the Opimian catalogue did not offer the Claret this year, but I had two vintages from previous offerings for a blinded "Mini Vertical" to pair with pepper steak:

The 2004 Steltzner Claret (Napa) was minty violets and ripe blackberries on the nose, with some liquorice, pepper, vanilla and green vegetal notes as well. Beautifully textured with decent acidity, velvety tannins, and a nice long finish, but showing the heat of the alcohol. The more ageworthy of the two, it should keep for a few more years but fine today.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$28 (Opimian)

The 2005 Steltzner Claret (Napa) was meaty and leathery on the nose, dark violets, liquorice, with fruit that smelled a touch older than the '04. Soft, silky tannins and nice dark fruit - simpler than the 2004, with a shorter finish. Drink now, short decant ok.
cork. 14.2% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$29 (Opimian)

Note that Steltzner fashions this wine using grapes (Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot) from other suppliers and not estate-grown grapes. With high prices for Napa Valley Cabernet, I wonder how long the Steltzner folks will be able to keep a lid on the price?