Joe's Wine

A Bevy of Great Wines at À L'Os

2011-05-11T07:11:00.010-04:00

Our tasting group got spring off to a great start, raiding our cellars for some great stuff to pair with MY favourite Montreal BYO, À L'Os.

Waiting for the entire crowd to arrive, Mark and I served up some 2007 Pio Cesare Langhe "Oltre" to whet our palates (a surprisingly fruity and accessible Piedmont blend from a terrific winemaker).

Ahh, so many wines tonight so we went with three flights - two Brunellos, then two Bolgheris, then two Nebbiolos...

It was nearly impossible to choose a favourite between Mark's 2000 Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova and my 1999 Banfi Poggio all'Oro Riserva. The Casanova di Neri was compote and cedar, with spicy liquorice and flint on the nose - very dry and more awkward on the palate than the Poggio all'Oro, but surreal evolution over the evening - very, very complex and could be a stunner in a few more years... Score: 18+/20. The Poggio all'Oro sported a more 'classic' nose - flint, cherries and chocolate, old leather and dried tobacco leaves - gorgeous, soft velvety tannins and a very, very long tobacco finish, impeccable balance, Score: 18+/20

After those two gems I was worried that the Bolgheris might disappoint, but then I spotted the Ornellaia label (and there was much rejoicing). Pramod's 1999 Ornellaia met my lofty expectations - aromas of green pepper, violets and blackberry, with a dash of oregano, grenadine, meaty white pepper. Minerally and reserved on the palate, beautiful balance and a long, silky finish Score: 18/20. Where Ornellaia sticks to the Bordeaux plot line, Lloyd's 2000 Enrico Santini Montepergoli had a different take on Bolgheri - Merlot, Cab. Sauv, Syrah and Sangiovese. A beautiful nose, with distinctive musty and mushroomy notes, some mint and basil. Bold, crisp cherries with silky tannins holding it together for a decent finish, very drinkable today Score 17.5/20.

The third flight, nebbiolo, was the heaviest - just as palate fatigue was beginning to set in. But a Conteissa?! I must be in heaven... Cam's 2007 La Spinetta Monferrato Rosso "Pin" gave up notes of roses, tar and white cherries. Very crisp, dry, and lengthy, but less polished than the other wines tonight (it was also the youngest), it should soften up with some more time in the cellar Score: 16.5/20. Chris' 1999 Gaja "la Conteissa" was the highlight of this tasting for me...cola, or maybe a Dr. Pepper smell, with fresh cherries and ink. Pretty, complex, with soft silky cherries dancing across the palate - incredibly lengthy but not overbearing, and so super polished (I wouldn't expect less from Gaja) Score 18.5/20.

After so many great wines we should have been finished, but Lloyd had a Quintarelli waiting in the wings. WOW. The 1999 Quintarelli Valpolicella was hot, with a nose of almondy liquer and ripe, raisin fruit, some woodsy and peppery notes. Despite the hot raisins up front, this was a polished offering.

OK, so Chris had a Tokaji for dessert but I'm done writing notes...look at the bottle, it tasted good.

Cheers!

Another Friday Night with Lloyd

2011-04-04T07:18:00.006-04:00

My buddy Lloyd and I have shared so many good bottles together, he has such a good cellar, and we have bought so many wines together, that when we get together I really have to rack my brain to come up with something (a) good and (b) something he has not already had. Perhaps Catena's top Malbec bottling?

The 2006 Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino left me a little flat at first - some cooked meat on the nose, then ripe, dark blackberries, sweet cocoa, black earth and liquorice - simple at first, but opening nicely as the evening progressed (I am afraid we "sipped" rather hastily...). A very long finish - well over a minute of soft crushed velvet and rich cocoa - rich, complex and beautifully textured - clearly needed more time to show its stuff
Cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5+/20
Price: C$ 85 (SAQ)

Lloyd had no similar difficulty in impressing me, fielding a half-bottle of exquisite Bolgheri (details to follow). Smokey crisp cherries, lead pencil, rose and sandalwood, old oak and tobacco...very impressive nose. So crisp, with silky tannins and surprising length - made me think of really good Chianti bottlings. Gorgeous!
Cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20

2000 Feudi di San Gregorio "Serpico"

2011-03-20T13:24:00.001-04:00

This Aglianico bottling ranks among my favourite wines of all time - always a treat to open one of these, and it was especially enjoyable to try this blind on some of my wine buds.

The 2000 Feudi di San Gregorio "Serpico" was very minerally on the nose, cooked dark berries, meaty and inky, later some hints of lavender - reminiscent of my prior Serpico tastings it coughs up its olfactory secrets slowly, but your patience is well rewarded.

Very, very, very, dry, tongue puckering dry, gobs of silky, silky, tannins ... such an incredibly long finish. Opened for some after dinner sipping, but it merited a pairing of roast meat (rack of lamb, perhaps?).
Cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$89 (SAQ)

2008 Clos de Gat Har'el Merlot

2011-03-15T12:35:00.000-04:00

Such a terrific nose on this 2008 Clos de Gat Har'el Merlot - sweet cocoa, ripe black cherries, cooked meat, black pepper, and a hint of green pepper... later pencil shavings and damp earth. Crisp cherries and crushed velvet tannins envelop the palate and linger for an impressive finish. Incredibly balanced, flavourful, and complex - a little more acidity would have held it together perfectly, but still the nicest Merlot I've had in ages. Bravo!
Cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$29 (LCBO)

Aussie Petit Verdot by Pirramimma

2011-03-08T12:26:00.000-05:00

Petit Verdot is a rare grape, and even rarer to find in a "single varietal" wine, so I happily grabbed a bottle of the 2003 Pirramimma Petit Verdot (McLaren Vale) and stuck it away in my cellar. Two years later my bro-in-law thought the same thing and brought me a 2005 - noticeably disappointed when I said "I already got one", but he cheered up when he was on the receiving end of a "mini-vertical".

The 2003 Pirramimma Petit Verdot was very earthy - black earth and lead pencil on the nose, but not much else. Sour cherries and substantial, silky tannins on the palate (crisper and lighter than the colour and nose would indicate). Rather tannat/nebbiolo-ish, with a lengthy finish and more acidity than the '05. Score: 16.5/20

The 2005 Pirramimma Petit Verdot was also rather simple on the nose, leather and black currants but revealing little else. Silky, ample tannins, modest acidity, with more black cherry fruit on the palate than the '03, it softened up nicely over 2 hours. Score: 16.5/20, C$23.80 (SAQ)

Neither wine was particularly aromatic, and both took time in the decanter to soften up and show their stuff, but they are worth the wait if you have a decanter and patience! I really should try some other wines from this house...

Bonville Prestige Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

2011-03-01T10:17:00.002-05:00

Sometimes you have to stop waiting for that "special occasion" and just open your bottle of bubbly! No special occasion tonight, just an opportunity to taste this tantalizing gift of grower champagne. The Bonville Prestige Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs was a delightful detour from 'still' wines -yeasty, lemon drop and hints of caramel on the nose, a palate of fine mousse, toasty lemons and good minerality. Nice gift!
Cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Gift

Medeival Mead Reserve

2011-02-26T21:32:00.003-05:00

"Mead" is a word that conjures up times of old - medieval knights pounding the table, heartily emptying mugs topped up with an ancient brew to celebrate another glorious victory. These images in mind, I just couldn't resist grabbing this weighty, ceramic bottle (sealed with wax) and delivering it to my brother in law as a gag gift.

While the cashier at the SAQ nodded approvingly and went out of his way to let me know that this Mead was amazing, I still didn't know what to expect from the Médiéval Mead Reserve, a product of Québec's Intermiel. Yes I know it is made from honey, but I just couldn't picture those battle-hardened knights sipping something sweet, so in my mind it should have tasted something like beer (Belgian perhaps). Well, it wasn't very beer like - dark, thick and heavy (ummm, medieval?), with an (obvious!) nose of honey and earthy oak ... very smooth, very flavourful, but unexpectedly sweet. A very nice product, but I just don't know when, or why, or with what, I would open another bottle of mead!
cork. 16% alcohol
Cost: C$25.30 (SAQ)

(PS - Mead, or honey wine, comes from many different recipes and is probably more heterogeneous than wine)

Friday Night with Lloyd

2011-02-07T23:04:00.000-05:00

I cannot say that my infrequent updates of this site are directly related to the decreasing frequency of our wine group meetings, but it is hard to ignore the fact that two of my favourite pastimes are falling by the wayside. This is partly due to the increasingly complex logistics of organizing 14 people and six wines for a blinded tasting, so I decided to schedule some smaller events and bring in some newbies for a smaller event, like this one at Lloyd's...

To kick things off Lloyd taunted us with a 1997 Castell'n Villa Reserva, suggesting that this 'starter' wine (to 'awaken' our palates, of course) could be the best of the night, and he wasn't far off - notes of flint and smokey dark cherries, lavender soap, and cocoa powder - surprisingly dense for an older sangiovese, with a long finish and beautiful fuzzy tannins - a wine that I mistakenly thought would not last this long so I drank mine years ago (arrgh). Score: 17.5/20

The theme of the night was "super-Tuscan", and featured some big wines:

On my left was a 2001 Flaccianello, a wine that ranks amongst my favourites of all time, but this particular bottle of wine has not aged well - pruney, cooked fruit and caramel on the nose, just old and tired. Velvety tannins and pruney compote greet the palate - signs of excitement, but this bottle was past its prime - I doubt this bottle is representative, and I have another to prove it someday. Score: 16.5/20

The next bottle on offer was a 1999 Paleo, but it was corked so Lloyd secretly replaced it with a 2003 Flaccianello that I brought to replenish his cellar. The most amazing nose, with fresh and vibrant cherries, signature tobacco notes ... crisp, rich and elegant on the palate with a very lengthy finish - such elegance, poise, I thought it was a Sassicaia. Score: 18/20

Next up was wine from that obscure Tuscan appellation of ... Pomerol? Ok, so the a 1989 Chateau le Gay was not a SuperT, but let me come back to that...

On my far right was a 2005 Sassicaia, another beautiful wine compliments of my buddy Cosme. Rather different on the nose - funky cheesey notes at first (in a good way), load of truffles and black fruit, every whiff a different aroma. Sooooo incredibly silky smooth on the palate that you are surprised when the finish lasts soooo long, it will be very interesting to see how this one develops over time. Score: 18/20

Well, you can't have a wine tasting without dessert, and after Lloyd had raved about this 2007 Konzelmann Vidal Ice Wine my expectations were high for this finisher. Dark goldent amber, with over-ripe apples, pears and hints of orange, caramel and vanilla - very intriguing. Soft, sweet, and luxurious, but not too sticky - a terrific wine, but perhaps lacking some of the crispness and minerality of the German wines that I like. Score: 17/20

Oops, I almost forgot about that 1989 Pomerol - meant to be a "ringer" in a group of SuperT wines, it stood out for a different reason - two of our party, including yours truly, felt the bottle to be corked, while the others disagreed and raved about its merits. I never score a wine that I feel to be corked, but my peers - two of the most respected palates I know - respectfully disagreed, and for what it's worth they LOVED this wine - guys, if you have some notes on this one I'm happy to publish them.

Cheers!

2005 Chateau Tour des Termes

2011-01-29T12:29:00.000-05:00

On the nose are smokey ripe blackberries and violets, flint, cedar and a hint of anise. Ample fruit, but the fruit doesn't dominate the palate, as the young, grainy tannins and nice minerality keep everything in balance and hold it together. Decent length, and still firm after a few hours in the decanter - good for a few more years in the cellar, but probably not dramatically longer. A gift from my buddy Guy, perfect with a grilled flank steak.
AOC Saint-Estèphe, 60% Merlot/40% Cab Sauv

Cork. 13.5% alcohol.
Score: 17/20
Price: gift

Friday Night with Eden

2010-11-26T13:03:00.000-05:00

Getting together with my buddy Eden is always great fun - Eden is a recovering Shiraz-oholic and a blank canvas upon which I can impose my views of the wine world. And he has a particular interest in 'a great value'.

Given his propensity for Shiraz and love of a great value I have over the years tried to guide him towards the South of France, like tonight's 2007 Hecht & Bannier Saint-Chinian (Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvedre). A delightfully wild -dare I say rustic - nose of leather and smoke, meaty black cherries, almonds and some vanilla notes add to the pleasure. A crisp, intriguing, medium bodied wine, pairing nicely with some grilled steaks. Score: 17/20, Price: C$22.95 (LCBO)

Spain is replete with value, but my taste buds were thinking "quality" so I also picked up a bottle of the 2005 Torres "Mas La Plana" Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine enjoyed many times in the past. Another hit tonight - a beautiful grenadine nose, with cedar and lots of violet. Elegant, sophisticated on the palate, incredibly smooth, silky tannins and a long, crisp, sour cherry finish. Wow. Score: 18/20, Price: C$44.95 (LCBO)

To round out this quirky flight I picked up a higher-end Argentinian wine, as Eden is well versed in the great values coming out of Argentina. The 2002 Alpha Crux from Mendoza's O. Fournier is an intriguing blend of Tempranillo, Malbec and Merlot. A powerfully meaty, gamey, nose - you could smell the tannins - allowing only glimpses of the delicate fruit underneath. Perhaps awkward is a better word, with dense grainy tannins tannins biting into the palate...such an incredibly long finish, and after a few hours still hinting at the greatness inside. I nabbed a few bottles to stick in the cellar, it will be very interesting to revisit this one in a few years. Score: 17.5++/20, Price: C$39.95 (LCBO)

Wow, what a night! I guess I need to open some Sassicaia to top that...(stay tuned)

NV Tissot Indigene Cremant de Jura

2010-11-19T14:07:00.001-05:00

I have a lot of respect for the Tissot house in Jura (1,2), so it was a no brainer to pick up this sparkling offering for a test run. The N.V. Domaine Tissot Crémant du Jura "Indigène" was a sparkling amber hue - caramel and tart apples on the nose, yeasty as well - like an apple beer with a hint of baking spices.

Tangy grapefruit and a touch metallic on the palate, not as soft or as balanced as a good Champagne, but I loved the wild flavours...I am curious if some bottle age will soften the rough edges? I'd better find another bottle.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$23 (LCBO)

Chinese Wine?

2010-10-15T23:21:00.002-04:00

Western wine markets see little Chinese wine, so little that many of us could be forgiven for thinking there was no such thing. But OF COURSE there is such a thing, and it took my brother in law's keen eye in the SAQ to pick up this offering (note: SAQ has 3 Chinese wines listed on their website).

Grape wine has been produced in China for millenia, although it seems to have gone in and out of fashion. Today there are over 800 wineries and the industry is experiencing double digit growth in production. China is now the world's sixth largest producer of grape wine (1), and according to a recent report (The Future of Wine, by UK wine merchants Berry Brothers and Rudd) could produce wine to 'rival the best of Bordeaux'. (2)

The Bordeaux reference fits nicely, as my introduction to Chinese wine begins with Cabernet Sauvignon. Holy Green Pepper, Batman! The 2006 Dragon's Hollow Cabernet Sauvignon was so green peppery that it took a little while for some other notes to reveal themselves - some Cocoa and cheese rind, green wood, and dark fruit in the background - but not a great nose. The odd nose did not carry to the palate - very smooth, but also very vegetal and tart. I think my bro-in-law summed it up: "Tastes ok, but smells bad".
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 13/20
Price: C$14.75 (SAQ)

My take - young vines, probably picked early, which is unsurprising in an industry experiencing such growth (i.e. lots of new plantings) - I have noticed this with young vineyards in Canada and the U.S.

Looking for Piemontese Terroir

2010-10-10T18:53:00.002-04:00

Enough talk (1,2) about Barolo and Barbaresco, it is time to tell you how the tasting went.

So, was our group of five tasters, blinded, able to correctly divine the thread of terroir in this small selection of top Piemontese offerings? Well, no. In fact none of our group paired the two Barolos and two Barbarescos together, although two of us put the 1998 and 2000s together. (does vintage trump terroir in Piemonte?)

But there was no disappointment tonight, as we collectively enjoyed some tremendous wines:

On our left was the 2000 Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis. A nose of sour cherries, vanilla and some metallic notes, the fruit turning darker as the wine opened up...but always delicate and light, somewhat reserved vs. other Sandrone Barolos I have tasted. Dry, sour cherries mingled with fine tannins on the palate - delicate and very well balanced, yet with tremendous length and presence. Such elegance could only be the product of Luciano Sandrone.
14.5% alcohol, Score: 18/20

The 1998 Marchesi di Barolo Sarmassa was a revelation. Enjoyed previously, but I didn't expect it to show so well amongst such illustrious peers. A nose of vanilla and black cherries, roses, a dash of black pepper and metallic notes (characteristic of both barolos tonight). Silky smooth with substantial tannins and a beautiful, never-ending finish. Bravo! (I thought it was a Barbaresco)
14.5% alcohol, Score: 18.5/20

Another terrific effort tonight was the 1998 Prunotto Barbaresco Bric Turot. Very flinty on the nose, with vanilla and cinnamon, some tar and black pepper ... late appearing notes of almonds and cooked cherries signalled an older wine. Very dry, with soft velvety tannins and a slight metallic aftertaste. A beautiful long finish, simply gorgeous, and very Barbaresco.
13.5% alcohol, Score: 18/20

The 2000 Moccagatta Barbaresco Bric Balin was the odd wine of the evening, and the only one everyone was completely wrong on. A stark nose - tarry, very tarry in fact, with noticeable oakiness, black earth, tobacco and cheese rind. While the first three wines were tremendously polished, the Moccagatta was tart, tannic and harsh, kinda "in your face". Crisp, with a very, very, long finish - it certainly has the acid and the tannins for aging - I think I will open my other bottle in another 10 years.
14% alcohol, Score: 17.5/20 So we didn't find terroir tonight, as the relative harshness of the Moccagatta screamed "young Barolo" and left everyone looking elsewhere for Barbaresco. Tonight I paired the 1998s and the 2000s together, which made me think that our research would have been better served by removing a variable and pouring wines from the same vintage...

Finally, I should mention the 2001 Pio Cesare Barbera "Fides" that served as our "starter wine" tonight, beautiful, as always (1,2).

Fast Facts: Barolo and Barbaresco

2010-10-05T12:09:00.005-04:00

Source: Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Roero

Despite the near legendary status of these Piemontese wine regions, it is actually very difficult to find good stats in books or on the web. Just as these monstrous wines are slow to reveal their secrets, so too is the producer consortium, it appears, which seems ok with an Italian-language only website...

Hopefully these quick facts will save you some searching:

Barolo
(awarded DOC in 1966, promoted to DOCG in 1980)
Langhe hills southwest of Alba
Eleven communes: Barolo, La Morra, Monforte d'Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglio Falletto, Novello, Grinzane Cavour, Verduno, Diano d’Alba, Cherasco, Roddi
Varieties: 100% Nebbiolo
Vineyard Area: 1714 ha / 4286 acres
Production: 10 million bottles
Aging: Three years minimum (at least two years in oak), five years for Riservas

Barbaresco
(awarded DOC in 1966, promoted to DOCG in 1980)
Rolling hills east and northeast of Alba
Three communes: Barbaresco, Neive, Treiso
Varieties: 100% Nebbiolo
Vineyard Area: 680 ha / 1680 acres
Production: approx. 2.5 million bottles
Aging: Two years minimum (at least one year in oak), four years for Riservas

Soils in the Barolo/Barbaresco region are predominantly limestone-rich marls. Note that there are over 800 producers in the two regions, with an average vineyard size of just 5 acres, and average annual production of just 10,000 bottles!

Sources: Oxford Companion to Wine, Vino Italiano, Wikipedia and other

(PS - consider this post a work in progress - please feel free to share any sites/books that could fill in some additional details)

Danger, Wine Tasting

2010-10-02T11:04:00.004-04:00

My daughter had a warning for my guests last night. No need to worry, no one was Tazer-ed who didn't deserve it.

Barolo and Barbaresco, What's the Difference?

2010-09-29T20:58:00.008-04:00

Source: Wikipedia

Are Barolos and Barbarescos perceptibly different? Shouldn't the same grape (Nebbiolo), grown in appellations less than 20km apart, produce nearly indistinguishable wines? This Friday I once again seek to answer the question I posed more than two years ago - is there a defining difference between these wine regions?

Most books and web sites describe the wines made from the earlier-ripening (typically) Barbarescos as softer, elegant, more approachable. I like Bastianich/Lynch's comment in Vino Italiano, The Regional Wines of Italy:

Traditionally, Barbaresco was thought of as finer and more feminine than Barolo, the "queen" to Barolo's "king."

Most other writers feature a similar line of broad characterization - Barolos are heavier, more tannic, and require more cellar time to soften up, while Barbarescos are more approachable, perfumey, refined.

Of course, these comments are generalizations - with a plethora of producers working miniscule plots (not to mention different techniques in the winery) is it truly possible to define "Barolo-ish"? And will our small sample of '98 and '00 bottlings from Barolo and Barbaresco (four bottles) give us enough information to find that "sameness"? (Or will we simply drink a lot of wine)

I will let you know after Friday....

Do Whites Age? Lopez de Heredia and Chateau Musar

2010-09-23T23:17:00.004-04:00

Ok, so my last post on aging dry white wines was pretty lame - after all those whites barely four and five years old. Big deal? Fine, here's some really old s%$t - a 21 year old Rioja, and a "youthful" 9 year old from Lebanon...

The 1989 Lopez de Heredia Rioja (white) Dark, dark amber amber in the glass...dusty, minerally, on the nose...papaya, dried apricots and fresh lemons in support. Youthful, with crisp citrus and creamy almond - surely the vintage on the label is a typo? Terrific structure, elegant and complex with a terrific finish. Vintages has a few more bottles on line (and for $4 less than I paid) - buy some.
cork. 12% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$59 (LCBO)

The 2001 Chateau Musar (white) was more yellow gold, visually not showing its age despite nine years in the bottle. But it was more oxidized on the nose, with almonds and melted caramel, buttery. Softer, creamier on the palate with luxurious, spicy (nutmeg) finish - terrific, if only slightly less structured than the Lopez de Heredia above.
cork. 12% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$35 (LCBO)

Wow, what an education - astonishingly good, well-aged, dry whites from Spain and Lebanon - and surprisingly affordable! I'm going to clear some place in the cellar..

(PS - I have to thank Neil for plugging the Lopez de Heredia - if it weren't for him I would never have responded to this recent Vintages offering...cheers, Neil)

Do White Wines Age? An '05 and '06 from Rioja

2010-09-12T23:23:00.008-04:00

Do dry white wines "age"? The answer is yes, of course - any wine book will tell you that certain whites can improve with some quality time in the cellar.

But who actually gets to taste aged dry whites? Recall your last trip to your favourite resto - how long was the 'vintage white' section? Probably didn't have one. Did the sommelier recommend a five or ten year old white "from their cellar"? Probably not. And chances are that your buddy with that 4000 bottle cellar only has a few sweet German wines in his/her "white" section (if there any white wines at all).

So this mythical wine - the Well-Aged Dry White - became a bit of a quest for me a few years back. Realizing that the wine shops and restaurants would not satisfy this curious corner of my wine mind, I made a concerted effort to squirrel away some whites - Aussie, German and Alsatian Rieslings, some Chablis, some Champagne, and tonight's two bottles of Spanish Viura...

The 2005 Palacios Remondo Placet started all funky, seemingly tired and past its peak, but wow - did this ever open up - dried apricots, dark caramel, butter cream, canned pears and guava, some almonds and floral/soapy notes. The first sip mirrored the first nose - tired, past its prime - but as it opened some tangy citrus and minerality showed up, revealing tremendous finish and persistency for old wine ... wow, she's still got it! Even more impressive, it tasted better on day 2 and day 3.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20

The 2006 Palacios Remondo Placet barely showed any sign of age - crisp and fresh from the get go, adding funky papaya, soapy floral, citrus peel and quince. Notably minerally on the palate, with tasty bitters, difficult to find a more delicious, smooth, and complex white - with enough acidity and minerality to indicate that it is nowhere near its peak.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20

There is no doubt that a few years in the JoeCave did not harm these wines, with the '05 gaining nuance and '06 seemingly newborn. And Palcios Remondo has made a tremendous case for Rioja whites from the Viura grape.

But four or five years is not "age" - for that you have to wait for my notes on a 20 year old white Rioja...

(both were impeccably paired with a homemade seafood paella)

Happy Father's Day

2010-06-20T07:53:00.000-04:00

A Father's Day gift from my kids, and proof that wine is still top of mind around here...

Salon des Vins

2010-03-27T10:11:00.006-04:00

Despite my reservations I actually enjoyed myself at this year's Salon des Vins. Kinda odd, as it was exactly what I expected - crowded, overwhelming, and too much "so what, I can get that anywhere" - maybe my expectations were set to such a level that I was bound to have fun...

Yes, it was crowded on a Friday night, but I didn't really have any trouble tasting the wines I wanted to taste (and talking with the Industry folk can be hit and miss anyway). Yes it was overwhelming, but by keeping focused I manged to explore some new stuff...

The highlight of the night was a tasting with Jorge of Catena wines. Readers know I love Catena, from the great price:quality Alamos line, the great value Catena line to the uber-awesome Catena Alta series - Catena's wines consistently meet or exceed the quality of competing wines at similar or even higher prices. There is something to be said for consistency and an addiction to quality!

Jorge first poured for me a cross section of his Malbecs - the Alamos Seleccion, the Catena Malbec, the Catena Alta Malbec, and his latest offering - Catena's ultra high end "Malbec Argentino". The Seleccion is no slouch (see here), the Malbec a house favourite, and the Alta - stupendous! You really need to taste a Catena Alta Malbec to realize that the true potential for serious Argentinian wine based on this grape that is far beyond the fruity $10 offerings most consumers associate with Argentina. And if that wasn't enough, we tried the Catena Alta Cabernet and the Nicolas Catena Zapata. That Nicolas Catena is seriously good stuff, amongst the best "Meritage" wines I have EVER tasted. Note that Jorge will return to Montreal this fall for a tasting at Westmount's Wellhouse (more on Wellhouse in a future post).

We also had a really great time at the Bonny Doon booth. I have always liked Bonny Doon's more rebellious take on California wine - yes, he has playful marketing like so many other wineries, but he also has serious old world tendency in his wines - lower alcohol, more modest fruit, fresh and reserved wines. First we tried an odd Nebbiolo offering, crafted from grapes that were half raisinified (a la Ripassa/Amarone) - an odd nose and just to raisiny for me. The Birchino Malvasia was a delicious find - very floral, flat and flavourful, perhaps an American take on VdP Cotes de Gascogne. But the star was the Le Pousseur - the best Shiraz I have had at this price point (~23$), it will be released at the SAQ in early May - watch for this!

Another great find was the Constantia Glen "Saddle", a Cab Sauv/Cab Franc/Merlot blend - the only wine that made it home with me tonight.

A couple of oddities - a Rosso Gaglioppo, for example - and a serious disappointment at the Marc Anthony booth where I paid serious $$$ for a pour from a cooked bottle of the Falesco Montiano - when I complained he said it just needed to breathe. I'll remember that as I go to stock my cellar next time...

My main regret was not having more time to scope out some quirkier wines, but I think I'd need a few hours on my own to really poke around the show and taste quirkier things (I tend to drive people - i.e. my wife - crazy with my "intensity" at these events).

That's all to report, two more years to go....

Montreal's Salon des Vins

2010-03-24T21:06:00.001-04:00

The Salon des Vins, Montreal's biennial wine extravaganza, runs this week from Thursday, March 25th to Sunday March 28th. Two years ago I was nearly giddy with excitement, but this time around I'm rather "uninspired", as the thought of muscling my way through vast crowds in desperate search of some undiscovered gem seems tedious, the prices can be steep for rather modest pours, and forget about having time to talk to the producers - they're too darn busy.

But I cannot ignore it completely - the list of producers is not so bad, and you can buy stuff at the show that is simply not available in local stores. Two years ago I went for three of the four days, but this time 'round I'll simply stop by on a Friday and hope it is not too frustrating...

2002 Elderton The Ashmead Cabernet

2010-03-16T23:44:00.002-04:00

I show a lot of love here for Elderton, so it was a bit of a no-brainer for me to pick up this 2002 Elderton "The Ashmead" Cabernet Sauvignon. Very Barossa - vanilla, cloves and tobacco on the nose, lots of fresh, ripe blackberries, violet and flint, spicy oak and green pepper. Incredibly soft and smooth on the palate, it started simple but filled out over the evening, offering spicy fruit and silky tannins. A beautiful, long finish, rather fresh for the age, but left me wanting something more...
Score: 17/20
Price: C$69 (SAQ)

Two Takes on Cahors

2010-03-12T23:42:00.003-05:00

For my 41st birthday I thought I'd break out of a rut and try something quite random - two random bottles of Cahors, that is. Not entirely random, as these bottles offered two entirely different takes on Cahors and held the promise of something very different from Argentine Malbec.

The 2006 Chateau de Gaudou sported a traditional label and a Decanter silver medal, so I had no idea what to expect. Very austere, Bordeaux-like, so green and earthy with gobs of leather and spicy new oak, late hints of vanilla. Crisp, fresh, and lengthy - far to light and elegant to be a Malbec!
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$23.25 (SAQ)

The 2007 Un Jour sur Terre intrigued me, as the back label spoke to this wine's aging in clay, not oak. That's right, malbec with NO oak. What that gives you is a big nose of ripe blueberries, (much fruitier than the Gaudou above) with intriguing notes of wet stones, mint and oregano, liquorice, and hint of vanilla. Much crisper and lighter than the fruity nose suggested, feeling hotter and just slightly less balanced on the palate. So very different from every Malbec you've ever tasted...
Cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$25.50 (SAQ)

2006 Cumaro Conero Riserva

2010-03-08T09:25:00.002-05:00

A definite oddity, the 2006 Cùmaro Conero Riserva was a Christmas gift that has been sitting in the cellar as I had no idea what to serve it with. I gave up tonight and opened it for a wonderful pairing with a prime rib roast. An enticing, satisfying nose of currants and old leather, cigars, damp earth, wet stones and a hint of vanilla. Rather rustic on the palate, with dry, sour curranty fruit. A great food wine - light, crisp and minerally. Delightful without being overpowering, definitely more my style these days, but big fruit lovers may wish to look elsewhere.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: gift

Washington State Merlot: 2003 Wilridge Merlot Red Mountain Klipsun Vineyards

2010-03-04T18:30:00.003-05:00

We don't get much wine from Washington State in Montreal, so when my travels took me to Seattle I thought I'd sample some of the local offerings. Seattle's Tasting Room, located in the Pike Place market, had a quaint, but serious ambience - perfect for an extended stay, but I only had time to grab a few bottles and run....

The staff was rather busy serving tasting customers and didn't offer much assistance with the wines on offer, so I was left to random picks and some customer suggestions (lots of helpful winos there!). Tonight's Merlot made it into the bag as I have taken to buying wine in reverse order of alcohol content, and this 13.7% bottling was probably the lowest alcohol red in the shop (and conveniently selling at a large discount to the rest of the offerings).

The 2003 Wilridge Merlot Red Mountain Klipsun Vineyards was a wonderful surprise, with fresh, earthy fruit, green pepper, milk chocolate and cassis on the nose. Spicy, and a bit rough around the edges at first - a shag carpet of tannins - but it sorted itself out with some air. Smooth, balanced, a nice long finish...a lot of heart put into this. And this merlot did NOT taste 7 years old, still fresh and vibrant, it never got flabby. Cellarworthy? A rare question at this price point - wish I had some more to find out!
cork. 13.7% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: US$19 (Tasting Room Seattle)

2006 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin "Combe aux Moines"

2010-02-28T23:29:00.006-05:00

My buddy Cosme is legendary for his love of Burgundy, so it was no surprise that he brought one by when I invited him over for a drink. His 2006 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Combe aux Moines" Vielles Vignes was tremendously complex on the nose, with notes of cola and green nuts, wildflowers, strawberries, pencil shavings, cocoa and a hint of honey. Ample velvety tannins - drier than most burgs - with a notable minerality. Very fresh, and very well balanced, another gem from Cosme!
Score: 18/20
Price: gift

A Castelgiocondo Brunello Vertical

2010-02-24T23:52:00.004-05:00

Ever since he visited my cellar in December, my buddy Guy and I have been plotting an evening of Brunellos. According to Guy we had a complementary vertical of the Castelgiocondo, but that wasn't really true - I had the "regular" Castelgiocondo, while he had a bottle of the higher-end (and pricier) "Ripe al Convento". An "imperfect" vertical, but a perfectly enjoyable blinded tasting!

The 1999 Castelgiocondo was showing its age - a pretty nose of prunes and leather, vanilla and cherries. Soft and silky smooth, a palate of minerally cooked fruit. Delicious, but simpler than the other two. Drink now. cork. 14% alcohol, Score: 16.5/20

Guy's 2000 Castelgiocondo Riserva "Ripe al Convento", the estate's top bottling, impressed with a complex and ever-changing nose - flint, violet and tobacco, some fresh cherries and fruity hard candy. Delicious cherry fruit and a long, long, finish of soft, velvety tannins. Very balanced, nearly flawless. cork. 15% alcohol, Score: 18/20

The 2001 Castelgiocondo had a big dose of tobacco and smokey ashes, vanilla - a tad too heavy with the oak. Younger, fresher, cherry fruit with a beautiful finish - everyone's 2nd favourite and a winner considering the price differential vs. the Ripe al Convento. cork. 13.5% alcohol, Score: 17.5/20

A wonderful evening of wine (all in their prime), paired beautifully with great friends and a tasty prime rib roast.

2004 Olivares Dulce Monastrell

2010-02-20T09:37:00.003-05:00

My first bottle of this was a gift from my friend Andreas, but after an unfortunate accident I HAD to go out and replace it (it was a Mourvedre dessert wine from Spain, for crying out loud!).

The 2004 Olivares Dulce Monastrell (Jumilla) was rather odd for a dessert wine - blueberry jam and almond liquer (amaretto), pruney and some aromas that could easily have been single malt scotch. Soft and and pruney on the palate - an odd juxtaposition of sweet, syrupy fruit and dense, grainy tannins. Nice, with a very long finish, but just a bit too sweet.
cork. 16% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$30.25 (SAQ) 500mL

Exploring the Reds of St-Chinian

2010-02-16T09:37:00.011-05:00

St-Chinian is the 4th largest Languedoc appellation, with 3300 hectares under vine. The reds, approximately 90% of production, are fashioned from the grapes Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Cinsault and Lledoner Pelut grown in hillside vineyards trapped between the Mediterranean and the mountains. While the climate and grapes point towards big, heavy wines, tonight's offerings were surprisingly light - only one had 14% alcohol.

My brother-in-law picked up this 2007 Le Secret des Capitelles in Ontario, a blend of Grenache and Shiraz. A terrific nose of peppery cooked meat, leather and blackberries, violets and sour cherry, some wildflowers, rubber and ink - very complex for a wine at this price. Hot and peppery with a lengthy finish, it softened up as it aired out, but it was not as balanced as the Hecht et Bannier below. But what a great price! I may have to cross the border to get a few more bottles.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Cost: C$14.95 (LCBO)

The 2006 Les Fiefs d' Aupenac sported a "Decanter" sticker on the bottle, which was good enough to entice me into an experiment. This wine was a "St-Chinian-Roquebrun", from the village of Roquebrun in the St-Chinian region. Mostly (60%) Syrah, with some Grenache and Mourvedre, it was less complex than the others. Deeper, darker, with peppery meat and leathery notes, some blackberries, creme brulee and violets to follow. Softer, hotter (cherry liqueur came to mind), with a good, fruity finish.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$19.95 (SAQ)

I loved this 2006 Hecht et Bannier, a négociant-éleveur specializing in the Langueoc-Rousillon offerings. The nose starts off slowly - nice, but subtle. A little air and it opens beautifully, showing minerally black earth, peppered meat, vanilla and grenadine. Probably the smoothest and best balanced, with a soft velvety touch, yet tight and minerally at the same time. A plum and blackberry finish that felt lower alcohol than the others. Did I say very very very well balanced? Drink now.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$24 (SAQ)

It was a perfect blind tonight, as all were random selections and never tasted before this evening. Be forewarned, as my preference for the H&B not shared by the others who preferred the fruitier Aupenac.

Key take away? A fairly random sample of St-Chinian shows wines that recognize the big fruit available, but the winemakers have deftly crafted this fruit into more balanced wines than I have seen in other Languedoc appellations - give these a try!

2008 Moulin de Gassac "Elise"

2010-02-12T09:11:00.005-05:00

"Un Vin Comme Autrefois" declares the label of the 2008 Moulin de Gassac "Elise" Vielles Vignes, a Merlot-Syrah blend from the Vin de Pays de l'Hérault appellation. A mouthwatering nose of ripe blackberries enveloped by a distinct, green earthiness, with some vanilla and new leather added later on. Soft and grainy, with a smokey, flinty finish. A terrific wine for decanting, the oxygen helped this open very nicely over the evening - blinded this wine could fool many into thinking they were drinking a much more expensive wine.
Cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$15.45 (SAQ)

Two takes on a 2000 Barbaresco

2010-02-08T10:08:00.007-05:00

So Guest Blogger sends me a message: "did we buy the '00 Moccagatta together? had a btl last night. outstanding."

Well, Lloyd was correct - we did order the 2000 Moccagatta Barbaresco Bric Balin together, a Vintages special release in 2005. How did these bottles fare in our respective cellars? Here are two sets of notes:

"Drank with my wife 01-10, really shone. Nose is a light bouquet of roses, violets and tar with some Indian spice. On the palate, medium weight, exceedingly smooth with more tar, coffee and cinnamon, extracted fruit with cherry dominant and a subtle, well-integrated acidity. Fine, drying tannins left me begging for a prime rib. Very long - at least 30 seconds - on the finish. Could've been mistaken for an old burgundy. Wow. 18+ on the Joe scale." - Lloyd

Joe's bottle, Joe's nose, came to similar conclusions - a nose of violets and black cherries, creamy latte...green and earthy, with an inky/rubbery undertone. Really impeccable balance, silky smooth with woodsy tannins, tasty bitters and a nice long finish. Just kept opening up over the evening, lovely. Score: 18/20
Cost: C$54.95 (Vintages)

2007 Brazilio Syrah Cabernet

2010-02-04T09:03:00.001-05:00

Another surprise from my brother in law, a Brazilian wine. Brazil?!

The 2007 Brazilio, a blend of Syrah and Cabernet, started smooth, quite tasty, but I sensed it would fall apart like so many inexpensive wines do after they get some air. An earthy and rustic nose, adding cedar, leather and black cherry notes over the evening. A smooth, dark berry finish - nothing flashy, but it didn't fall apart either. Surprisingly good, and a steal at this price.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 15.5/20
Price: C$13.25 (SAQ)

2008 Martin Codax Salterio Albarino

2010-01-31T22:48:00.003-05:00

Albariño is Spain's big secret, for now. The signature grape of Galicia's Rías Baixas wine region, I never think to buy these - but I have never been disappointed. The pretty label grabbed me this time - wow, what a nice surprise!

The 2008 Martín Códax Salterio Albariño (Rias Baixas) tempts with notes of papaya, buttery croissant, apples and flowers. Soft and appley on the palate with a distinct minerality, not crisp but the minerals hold it together quite well. A delcious sipping wine yet flavourful enough to stand up to turkey kebabs...lots of fun!
plastic cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$16.95 (LCBO)

Guest Blogger visits Bistro à Champlain

2010-01-27T13:23:00.001-05:00

Guest Blogger Lloyd returns with this write up of Bistro à Champlain...

Since returning to Montreal 20 years ago, wine fanatics have bragged to me about Bistro à Champlain on Lac Masson about an hour north of Montreal. Apparently, an excellent bistro with an outstanding wine cellar. I wrote it off to locals promoting the local, and put it off as long drives and lots of wine are hard to match up.

But last July, in need of a meeting place between Montreal and points further north, we connected with dear friends for a memorable dinner at this venerable spot. I can't believe I waited so long.

First, this was more than just a great wine cellar...it may be one of the most impressive cellars anywhere in North America. It boasts among the largest collections anywhere of DRC magnums (see photo), numerous verticals of first growths back to the 40s, and a broad range of offerings from the old world in its 35,000 bottles (unbelievable CDPs, Burgundy, Hermitage - the full set of Guigal's "La La"s - and smaller but outstanding collections of Barolo, Super Tuscan and Napa). Yes, 35,000 bottles. And that cellar is made all the more exciting by its builder and host, Dr Champlain Charest, a radiologist turned restaurateur with a gift for storytelling and a depth of wit that matches his collection.

We started with a 1993 d'Angerville Clos des Ducs, recommended by our waiter with a clear and deep knowledge of the incredible offerings. He considered the '93s to have really come out, and that they were under appreciated on the whole. He guided us through our selections in the context of our food order, and made subtle suggestions on that order ensuring great matches between food and wine. The d'Angerville was bright berry in colour, almost luminous. The nose started subtle, but was bolder as it warmed from cellar temp, all cut flowers, morning-after campfire and spice. Surprisingly full-bodied, on the palate it was ripe plums, cherries and a hint of black fruit. Great complexity with a note of stones and lingering minerally, dusty tannins that, after 45 mins, were leaving a long and light aftertaste. Really wonderful stuff! 18.5 on the Joe scale.

We followed with a 1982 Talbot, a selection of my good friend Robbie, who had tasted one years back and proclaimed it a hidden gem. Hard to disagree. Right out of the bottle this wine was spectacular. Purple with only a bit of bricking at the edges, the nose was an assault of black tea, truffles and leather. Hints of liquorice. Full-bodied and even a bit creamy as it warmed up, at 27 years of age the tannin has melted perfectly into a sea of dark fruit, earth and something meaty. Round and soft, there was some chocolate there, that sung for close to a minute. It hurt to see the end of the decanter. Who knew that a Talbot could be that impressive - or long-lived! 19+ on the Joe scale. The plus, as we downed this so quickly, I'm certain this would've continued to improve!

I can't say enough about this dinner and our host. Though I did not note the prices of these wines, I will say that the price for both was below recent auction values for each. Bistro a Champlain's list is incredibly reasonable for the unique - perhaps unmatchable - offering. I did not take notes on the '93 d'Yquem - an 'open bottle' for the evening special of seared fois gras - but it was delightful and a perfect match for the dish (and served complimentary by our host!). Do not miss the tour of the cellar graciously offered - and annotated - by Dr. Charest, truly a collector's collector and a man who, after years at this, never tires of discussing his passion. Bistro a Champlain is undoubtedly worth the trip...but book one of the many neighbourhood B&Bs and enjoy it fully!

Editor's Note: It has been two years since my buddy Lloyd has provided me a guest blog, but I might forgive him if he takes me here for some DRC...

2004 Marchesi Pancrazi Casaglia Rosso Toscano IGT Colorino

2010-01-20T15:51:00.005-05:00

Who drinks Colorino? A 100% Colorino? What the heck is Colorino? All very good questions, and the reason I bought this 2004 Marchesi Pancrazi Casaglia Rosso Toscano Colorino IGT ...

Colorino is a minor Italian grape variety, mostly known for the secondary role this grape plays in Chianti (mainly to add colour) - the Tuscan equivalent to Bordeaux's Petit Verdot?

Aptly named, as the Marchesi Pancrazi Casaglia was a very dark, inky purple in the glass. Very earthy, with notes of plums, sweet vanilla, nutmeg, and brie cheese on the nose. A silky smooth texture, very dry and lingering...tannic, but not heavy, with a deceptively long finish...surprisingly light given the inky darkness and big nose. Terribly unique, very interesting... (and we all had blue teeth).
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$39 (LCBO)

2008 Gemtree Bloodstone Shiraz Viognier

2010-01-16T09:03:00.002-05:00

It is rare that my buddy Eden sends me a frantic wine email screaming "you've got to try this!", so I couldn't ignore his plea...

The first thing that leaps out at you is just how very, very smooth this 2008 Gemtree Vineyards "Bloodstone" Shiraz Viognier is. Big, classic, violet and blackberry on the nose, notes of allspice, butterscotch, and freshly cut wood as well. Smooth, soft, and beautifully textured, with silky tannins and a light, fresh finish (only a touch hot). Perhaps I simply have an affinity to the McLaren Vale? I thought it was just d'Arenberg...
Screwcap. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$17.95 (LCBO)

Great catch Eden! This wine just made it into my house wine rotation.

American Sangiovese, 2004

2010-01-12T07:56:00.005-05:00

Drinking Napa Sangiovese feels historic, like I am drinking the last of dying breed. Napa Sangiovese extinct? Hardly. But while my terminal diagnosis for Napa Sangiovese has no facts to back it up, I certainly get the "sense" that the "Sangiovese Experiment" will soon perish under the Napa Cab steamroller...

It would be a shame if the steamroller eliminated this Steltzner offering. The 2004 Steltzner Sangiovese Riserva (Stags Leap) coulda been straight from Chianti - lighter and fresher than the Luna below, with classic tobacco, green ferns, black pepper and flint. A soft velvety texture held together by crisp cherries, such delicate tannins and a delicious finish. Purchased on my '06 trip to Napa, from a Napa winery that keeps me from losing hope...
cork. 13.6% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: US$38 (winery)

This Luna offering seemed oddly familiar... undoubtedly straight out of Napa, the 2004 Luna Sangiovese Reserve showed a very nice, very modern, nose of big, ripe, jammy cherries, smokey vanilla and sweet cocoa, mint and liquorice. Jammy on the palate, coating the tongue with big, hot fruit, but redeemingly delicious tannins and a lengthy finish. Really opened nicely, just sooo different from the Steltzner above.
cork. 15.8% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: US$60 (winery)

Both tasted blind, it is really a battle of old versus new - you decide.

(PS - note the serious price differential)

Belguardo Poggio Bronzone Vertical

2010-01-08T09:31:00.001-05:00

A vertical tasting - tasting different vintages of the same wine - is one of my favourite wine tasting activities. Sometimes with vintage notes in hand, sometimes not (like tonight), I sip these mysteries and try to picture the weather of years past in a distant land...dilute (rains at harvest), green/vegetal (earlier harvest), raisiny (extreme heat)...wines typically give us hints to the climate in which they were raised. Except for tonight, where this "accidental" vertical of four Tuscan vintages gave nearly identically wonderful expressions of Sangiovese.

Accidental? Most of the verticals in my cellar are carefully assembled, but this was a funny discovery (or perhaps a sign of aging) - four different vintages of this wine from Mazzei's Belguardo Estate! Mazzei has been pushing the promise of the Tuscan Maremma for a few years now, and judging by tonight's wines the Maremma is more than promising.

Tonight's favourite was the 2001 Belguardo Poggio Bronzone - beautifully complex on the nose, with earthy, charcoal notes, some cocoa powder, liquorice, basil and old fruit as well. A carpet of velvety tannins carries crisp, minerally cherry fruit to the palate. Poised, a very nice finish, nearly perfect if the oak was more subdued. Score: 17.5+/20

A nose of minty cooked fruit and the 2004 Belguardo Poggio Bronzone nearly passed for the oldest. Terribly interesting, later adding notes of sour cherries, roses, and cooked sausages. Silky tannins and raisiny, cooked fruit awkwardly danced across the palate - kinda odd at first, but it developed nicely. Bottle variation? Wish I had another '04. Score: 16.5/20

The 2005 Belguardo Poggio Bronzone was a lovely wine, with flinty sweet black cherries, and tobacco notes - a touch spicy. Juicy, tart and lighter bodied than the others, with a very long smoky finish, even a touch nutty. Very well balanced...Score: 17/20

The 2006 Belguardo Poggio Bronzone, was an impetuous youth - big smokey and leathery aromas with a heavy dose of toasty oak, fleshed out with roses and dark berries. Tangy, earthy and very smokey, with a deceptively long, minerally, finish. A bit over-oaked, but otherwise showing many signs of greatness. Score: 17/20

A great flight of Sangiovese (more similar than different), I can only speculate on the subtleties of these vintages - the 05 seemed touch dilute (rain?), the '04 hot and raisiny (hot and dry?). It is noteworthy that all were 13.5% alcohol, not showing the trend I see in my cellar with wineries showing increasing alcohol in consecutive vintages.

While there was not a bad wine in the bunch, a lighter touch with the oak would be appreciated by this palate...

2004 Caparzo "Le Grance" Sant' Antimo

2010-01-04T09:55:00.004-05:00

I was pleased to see that for this year's holiday bash more of our friends decided to bring wine. Not that gifts of wine weren't offered in the past, but I definitely sensed some apprehension as they all know I am a wine fanatic. What they don't know is that I always love to try something new, even if the wine doesn't work out...

Tonight's wine was an intriguing gift from my good friend Marcus - intriguing because Tuscan Chardonnay is not exactly commonplace, and Marcus has been carefully aging this Tuscan Chardonnay, the 2004 Caparzo "Le Grance" Sant' Antimo, for a few years. But Marcus' bold experiment was a good one - bright amber in hue, with a nose that screamed "breakfast!" - apple danish, to be exact - adding some oxidized floral and minerally notes, wet hay and caramel. A deceptively soft texture, yet stark and minerally, with flavours of oxidized bitters - a white in the vein of those from the south of France. It has aged well, but is now at its peak.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Gift

1999 Tenute Marchesi Antinori Magnum

2009-12-31T19:56:00.003-05:00

Purchased in April of 2003, this was my first magnum - and I always had a Christmas dinner in mind. I know I always drink Pinot Noir with Turkey, but I just had this feeling that an aged Sangiovese would be particularly lovely...

At the end of its first decade this 1999 Tenute Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva displayed only faint brick hues, seemingly unfazed by its long repose. After nearly two hours in the decanter the wine came alive with an expressive, powerful, nose of tobacco and leather, violets and plums, wet paper...finishing the evening with smokey/flinty notes, sandalwood, and sweet nutmeg...beautiful. A gorgeous, soft velvety texture...it starts dry, crisp, and somewhat unbalanced, but with decanter time it all came together. Truly aged to perfection, and drinking so well now that I cannot recommend leaving it in the cellar (but it wouldn't suffer if you did).
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$119 (SAQ)

Another Christmas Party Wine Mystery

2009-12-27T21:42:00.006-05:00

For our Christmas Party each year (1,2) I decant and serve four red wines blind, asking my guests to use their intuitions and "guess" which wine is which, typically by providing clues about the grape or region. An incredibly simple concept, but extraordinarily difficult (and humbling) in reality - even for the experts. But what a marvelous way to get people thinking about, and talking about, wine!

This year's selections:

2007 Falesco Vitiano (Umbria, Italy)
2007 Wolf Blass Cabernet Sauvignon Yellow Label (South Australia)
2006 Montecillo Crianza (Rioja, Spain)
2007 Alamos Malbec Seleccion Especial (Mendoza, Argentina)

The rationale for tonight's picks? Excellent price to quality for their respective styles, based on personal experience, and sufficiently different grapes and winemaking styles to make the guessing a bit easier....

Unfortunately, nobody correctly identified all four wines - in fact only two guests picked two of four correctly. I blame the Vitiano mainly - 1/3 each of Merlot, Cabernet and Sangiovese it came across more modern and approachable for an "Old World" wine and displayed no definitive "Italian-ness". Adding to our intrepid wine detectives' misery, the Wolf Blass was very reserved and came across as a reserved, "Old World", wine.

Yes, the wines were not easy to triangulate, but at least the wines were pretty darn good overall - no duds tonight, as in previous years. (It shouldn't be much of a surprise, I suppose, as most of these wines frequently appear on "best value" lists)

It was interesting to note that all of the wines were 13.5% alcohol - not low, but certainly NOT the elevated alcohol we see with too many entry level wines these days. Less surprising for the Rioja, perhaps, but an Argentine Malbec? Wonderful to see.

There was some debate as to whether the Falesco was better than the Montecillo., but in the end both of those decanters drained equally quickly. (the true test)

All in all a great evening, and nobody had a bad glass of wine - that's the "Joe Guarantee®"

2001 Mas Amiel Maury

2009-12-23T00:54:00.000-05:00

This was a very good wine, and it wasn't meant to be the backup, but a smashed bottle of Spanish dessert wine (see below) lead to a change of plans.

The 2001 Mas Amiel (Maury, 100% Grenache) tantalized with a meaty, leathery and almondy nose, blackberries omnipresent. Beautifully textured on the palate, with a tasty nuttiness and some dried fruit. It paired very well with some dark chocolate, and unlike a port the elevated alcohol level was barely noticeable.
cork. 16% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$19.20 (SAQ), 375ml

The 2004 Olivares Dulce Monastrell, a Mourvedre dessert wine from the Spanish region of Jumilla, was to be the star of the evening, but only two precious ounces were recovered from the accident scene. After running this precious liquid through a coffee filter I felt brave enough to taste - hot, minty, with syrupy red berries and black liquorice, a wall of powerful tannins hiding under that sweet fruit. While the Mas Amiel felt reserved, the Olivares was an impetous youth - more dessert than dessert wine, but worthy of a retaste after a few years in the cave.

2002 Don Melchor

2009-12-20T00:10:00.005-05:00

It is easy to be cynical when a mass producer of inexpensive wine produces a pricey, single vineyard offering. But this label has been produced for many years, and while the critics have raved about the Don Melchor for years it has only recently started getting consumer attention (i.e. prices skyrocketing).

I have been assembling a vertical of this wine over a number of years (hence the modest price below), and this was my first taste from that collection. The 2002 Concha y Toro Don Melchor (96% Cab Sauv, Cab Franc) showed long legs in the glass, and it was very, very violety on the nose. Classic Cab blackberry notes as well, it kept on delivering with pepper and butterscotch, flint and old leather, liquorice and tar...earth, musk, and cedar. A big, expansive, thick wall of tannins, accented by spicy black pepper and dark berry fruit. Awkward and a touch hot, but a never ending finish and it started to come together with air time. While sipping I couldn't help thinking "tremendously complex" and "already done". This is worth seeking out, and I can't wait to host a vertical of this.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17.5+/20
Price: C$44.78 (SAQ)

2001 Di Majo Norante Don Luigi

2009-12-16T00:27:00.001-05:00

Another sad goodbye to a last bottle....

The 2001 Di Majo Norante "Don Luigi" (90% Montepulciano, Aglianico) was prunes, with tarry, minty notes...made me think Piemontese...some liquorice and flint. A velvety carpet of tannins carries dense, plummy fruit...minerally, a touch edgy at first, but softens up nicely. Very big and flavourful with a long, pleasing finish. A Top 50 Cellar Pick.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$34.95 (LCBO)

Tannats a world apart - Bouscasse and Arretxea

2009-12-12T23:37:00.003-05:00

An interesting head to head tonight, a "Tannat-Fest" if you will, a Bouscasse Vielles Vignes from the South West of France vs. an Uruguayan discovery, the Pisano Arretexea.

The 2001 Pisano Arretxea has aged since I last opened a bottle - tobacco and dark cherry aromas lead, cooked fruit, mint and rose petals. A soft mouthfeel, cooked fruit and silky, substantial, tannins. A better sipping wine than the Bouscasse, at its prime now.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$38.75 (SAQ)

The 2000 Chateau Bouscasse Vielles Vignes is one of my all time favourite wines - enticing aromas of medicinal sour cherries, tobacco, leather, cloves, and roses. Crisper on the palate, with sour cherries and a tremendously long finish - a delicious wine, and a better pairing for tonight's roast. One of my Top 50 Cellar Picks.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$38.50 (SAQ)

What wine to pair with Bach?

2009-12-08T18:27:00.003-05:00

Our good friends Mark and Sandra invited me to Montreal's Bach Festival...for a wine tasting! A very intriguing concept - what wine to pair with Bach's Goldberg Variations?

Not a concept really, as research has shown that music can affect our appreciation of wine. Well, eXcentris, Matt Haimovitz and sommelier Nicolas Charron Boucher took this research to heart, enlisting Nicolas to pair wine with the nine canons of the Variations (Dmitri Sitkovetsky’s arrangement for String Trio), as performed by cellist Matt Haimovitz, violinist Jonathan Crow and violist Douglas McNabney.

Taking his cues from musicians' descriptions on the pieces, Nicolas chose as follows:

Actually, the first pairing started not with the first canon, but was the Aria. For this piece Nicolas chose the Xerez Manzanilla Papirusa Solera Reserva Lustau. Almondy, oxidized, with hints of orange peel, this tart and crisp liquid slashed across the palate, yet smooth and sunshine-y at the same time. I question the music pairing, but a good example of Spanish sherry.

Variation III, the Canone all'Unisono, featured a 2008 Domaine Landron Amphibolite (Muscadet de Sevre et Maine sur Lie). Soapy and minerally with citrus and white flowers on the nose, fresh and lively white grapefruit on the palate. Really a delicious white wine, with great persistency - a highlight of the evening, and it even paired beautifully with the music.

Variation VI, the Canone alla Seconda, featured a 2007 Chateau Thivin Cotes de Brouilly. Not a hit with my friends, but I really liked this stark, smokey and earthy Bojo replete with ripe strawberries...light and silky it danced across the palate, an incredibly long finish and a good pair with this music.

Variation IX, the Canone alla Terza, paired with a 2007 Inama Vigneti Foscarino Soave Classico Superiore. It's been a while since I sipped a Soave, so this nose of lychee, peach, pears, flowers and cheese rind was a glorious reminder of Soave's potential. Minerally, flavourful and well balanced, a great summer white and a good music pairing (but another miss with my friends).

Variation XII, the Canone alla Quarta, was matched to Portuguese red, the Casal do Jordoes Guardiao Vinho de Mesa Tinto. A hit with the whole gang, a nose of sour cherries, spicy oak, tobacco and violets, a palate of crisp cherry fruit, delicate tannins and great balance...bitter citrus peel later on. A wine worth seeking out, and a decent pairing for this music.

For Variation XV, the Canone alla Quinta, we moved north to France, a pairing with the 2007 Chateau Haut Marsalet (Bergerac). Green, musty forest notes...blackberries, violet, pepper and fresh mint as well. Very dry, with dense grainy tannins and a touch hot. Rather similar to the Grinou that I like, a good pair with the music.

Variation XXI, the Canone alla Settima, featured the 2007 L'Ocre Rouge, a Vin de Table from the Rhone. Tarry blueberry fruit, earthy and warm, sweaty old leather...greener and crisper than I expected on the palate, but still a fruit bomb. Needs a steak, a great pair for the music.

Variation XXIV, the Canone all'Ottava, was paired to a wine from one of my all time favourite wineries. The 2006 Chateau Bouscasse did not disappoint - rustic, yet complex, with liquorice and funky new leather on the nose, green herbs and gravel as well. Smooth green tannins, tart cherry fruit and a great finish, mmmm....and it worked reasonably well with this piece.

The ninth, and final, wine for Variation XXVIII (Canone alla Nona) was a 2002 Muenzenrieder Trockenbeerenauslese, a dessert wine from Austria. A terrific wine to pair with our final Variations....rather simple - sweet apricot notes, soft and sweet on the palate, very elegant.

Once again, my notes are too long, but it was a special evening worth of journalistic record!

So, the highlights? Hats off to the entire trio for a lovely afternoon of music, and as my son is a budding cellist Matt's playing was particularly noteworthy. And kudos to the organizers for coming up with this idea - it is a foundation to build on and I look forward to attending this event in the future.

Anything I'd recommend for future events? Nine glasses of wine and not a cracker or hunk of bread to munch on?! The deluge of wine, especially such different wines, was difficult to take on an empty stomach - a small basket of oyster crackers would have sufficed.

Many thanks to Mark, Sandra and Shira for organizing, Cheers!

2008 Southern Hemisphere Pinot

2009-12-04T23:25:00.003-05:00

Nothing terribly unusual about Pinot from south of the equator, but these are from Chile and Tasmania - just unusual enough to call them oddities...

Amongst New World Pinot Noir offerings, Ninth Island's Pinots come closest to capturing the essence of Burgundy for me, and thus are always to be found in my cellar. The 2008 Ninth Island Pinot Noir (Tasmania) was no exception - earthy, with smokey oak and crisp, fresh raspberries...adding to this expansive nose with garden flowers, white pepper, and oregano. Light and very crisp, nice bitter citrus peel - a touch grainy, not as poised as a top burg, but still really good.
screw top. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$21.85 (SAQ)

I've enjoyed some other Montes offerings in the past, so it seemed like a good bet to pick up this 2008 Montes Pinot Noir Limited Selection. Riper, darker berries on the nose, some barnyardy, leathery notes and a prominent minerality. Modern on the palate - softer, more luscious - very smooth, silky tannins, nice bitters and modest acid. Good, just a little less structured and complex than the Ninth Island.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$17.60 (SAQ)

Both good offerings, especially at these price points - more a question of style than substance. And remember, Pinot and Turkey rocks.

If you give a Joe a turkey...

2009-11-30T22:25:00.003-05:00

If you give a Joe some turkey, then he'll probably want a Pinot Noir to go with it. On his way to the cellar he'll notice a painting on the door to his cellar and it will remind him of Burgundy. Thinking of Burgundy, his thoughts will immediately turn to the outstanding 2005 vintage, and he will give thanks. Giving thanks will return Joe's thoughts to roast turkey, and chances are, if you give him some turkey, then he's going to want some 2005 Burgundies by Maison Champy to go with it...

The 2005 Maison Champy Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru "Les Peuillets" was surprisingly oaky, raspberries and barnyard, cloves and sweet spice, some wildflowers, mushrooms, sulphur. Crisp, fresh, but overoaked and a bit too crisp - probably needs some time in a decanter, or a few more years in the cave, to sort itself out (but probably worth the wait).
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$35 (SAQ)

The 2005 Maison Champy Gevrey-Chambertin "Vieilles Vignes" sported mushroomy, barnyardy notes, flinty raspberries, hazelnuts and old leather. Very smooth, minerally, with modest acid and a good finish. Starts simple, but got more and more interesting over the evening...nicely done.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$41.75 (SAQ)

Dessert featured a 2006 Henry of Pelham Special Select Late Harvest Riesling. Rather simple - apples and apricots, some white flowers. Soft and sticky on the palate, dried apricots with some minerality and tangy acid. Very enjoyable.
cork. 9.5% alcohol
Score: 16/20
gift

2007 Poggio al Tufo Alicante

2009-11-26T11:04:00.004-05:00

Always on the hunt for something quirky, I found this Alicante, from Tuscany, made by Tommasi - a producer best known for its Amarone and Valpolicella.

I had it in my mind that Alicante produced light, delicate reds, but there was nothing light or delicate about the 2007 Poggio al Tufo Alicante (Maremma Toscana). A heavy dose of spicy new oak, leather, and plums greet the nose...minerally and flinty, almost ashen, later revealing some roses and hints of vanilla. Very minerally on the palate, with spicy new oak and delicious dark cherry fruit, a long finish of soft silky tannins. A bit edgy, almost rustic, but seriously good stuff - an incredible case for more Alicante.
Cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$18.95 (LCBO)

1999 Hacienda Monasterio

2009-11-22T22:30:00.004-05:00

How can a bottle so brimming with joy bring me so much sadness?

It was last call for my 1999 Hacienda Monasterio Crianza (Ribera del Duero), a Tempranillo (70%) with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Notes of earthy, damp forest undergrowth, cherries and coffee grounds, almonds, roses and ferns wave a tearful goodbye, while crisp, spicy, peppery cherries, silky tannins and a fine chalky texture sensually kiss the palate, an interminable goodbye...my last bottle - gone, my love, but never to be forgotten (1, 2, 3, 4) ...
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$38 (SAQ)

Note: This wine has also earned a mention on my Top 50 list, but sadly the latest vintage sold out at a price DOUBLE what I paid for this. I shoulda kept my mouth shut...

2004 Collioures from Domaine Madeloc

2009-11-18T21:58:00.004-05:00

My bro-in-law kindly brought back a Collioure wine from France, which slept quietly in my cellar until I found another bottle from the same winery, same vintage, here in Montreal. Time for a blind tasting!

The tiny Collioure appellation lies just across the border from Spain, facing the Mediterranean. The red wines are made mainly from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre (at least 60%, but less than 90%), Carignan and Cinsaut are also allowed but must comprise less than 40% of the blend.

On my left was Cam's gift from France, the 2004 Domaine Madeloc Cuvée Crestall. The first notes are very intriguing - dark berries, flint and violets, some earthy new leather, liquorice later in the evening. Smooth and silky textured on the palate, with bright cherry fruit and a nice long finish. More flavourful, interesting, and complex than the Magenca below.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: ~ euros 39 (France)

On my right, the locally purchased 2004 Domaine Madeloc Cuvée Magenca. More subtle on the nose - also showing dark berry fruit, a hint of vanilla and cloves, some violets. Soft, earthy fruit...chewy, velvety tannins, very smooth and delicious. Gaining complexity over the evening.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: ~C$25 (SAQ)

Kudos to Domaine Madeloc for serving a beautiful pair of wines - definitely worth seeking these out. Great with grilled lamb.

Revisiting Chateauneuf du Pape

2009-11-14T16:54:00.004-05:00

Our tasting group has not dedicated an evening to Chateuneuf du Pape since...April of 2005? You might think we hate the stuff! Yet most of the group has a decent collection of these...sounds like a Grand Tasting!

Once again, a colossal flight of wines, blinded and rank ordered by our capable panel of tasters:

Clearly the oldest, and nearly unanimously rated number one, was Lloyd's 1990 Château de Beaucastel. Surprising, as this wine almost didn't make it into the tasting lineup - Lloyd's first bottle was corked and this second bottle had a funky nose that was only starting to blow off as we went into the tasting - very fortunate. This perfectly aged CDP makes my short list of "best ever" wines - sour cherries meet pencil shavings on the nose, blanketed in roses and blackberries, some truffles, leather and tea...even figs in a supporting role. Incredibly polished, flavourful, and complex - silky smooth tannins deliver crisp fruit to the palate and directly into the cerebrum....so, so, good. Score: 19/20

Second, third and fourth place were very close, but Cam's 2004 Domaine du Pégau Cuvée Réservée edged out the rest with a nose of cooked fruit and grenadine, dried meat and some interesting mustiness. Very dry, with big, gripping tannins, it was a touch unbalanced at first taste but it had such a tremendous finish that sufficiently sorted itself out by the end of the night. Score: 18+/20

Third was the 2003 Domaine de St-Paul, continuing Ash's string of strong showings. Not a house I knew before tonight, it was showing its age - musty cooked fruit, mushrooms and old leather on the nose...balanced and tasty, just a bit old and flat on the palate. Past its prime, probably better in its past? Score: 17.5/20

Fourth place went to the "other" Beaucastel, Pramod's 1995 Château de Beaucastel. Pramod was disappointed with the showing, but it was "controversial" wine, with a bunch of high ratings pulled down by two last place ratings. Tarry cherries and liquorice on the nose, a powerful wine of tremendous length on the palate, dry velvety tannins, crisp fruit and spicy oak. This house is restoring my faith in CDP. Score: 18.5/20

In fifth was Cosme's 2005 Domaine de la Janasse Chaupin, another controversial wine with high and low rankings. Notably younger and fruitier on the nose, with ripe cherries and vanilla in the foreground, a hint of violets as well. Silky smooth, nicely balanced with dense velvety tannins, a great wine but stylistically away from where my palate is these days. Score: 17.5/20

Sixth place was a three way tie between my 2001 Domaine du Pégau Cuvée Réservée, Lloyd's backup wine, the 2001 Usseglio Cuvée de mon Aïeul and Chris' 2006 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne. My older Pegau smelled old, with compote, tar and almonds on the nose, fruity and well balanced on the palate but needs some more time in the cellar Score: 17/20. The Usseglio was just .... bland? Leather, fruit and vanilla on the nose, fruity with modest tannins Score: 16.5/20. Chris' Vieille Julienne was violets and venison on the nose, heavy fruit up front, this gave way to a better wine than that I first encountered. A very long finish, drinking well now Score: 17/20.

So...Beaucastel was not a house I had tasted frequently (maybe never?), yet two different vintages scored first and second for me. And that 1990 Beaucastel ranks with the best wines I have ever tasted (thanks Lloyd!)...I smell a shopping trip.

Many thanks to our host, Cosme, and to the gang for raiding their cellars for these treasures.

Cheers!

Mini Vertical #13: Meerlust Rubicon

2009-11-10T23:26:00.006-05:00

Ahh, South Africa on the mind, so I should write some notes on my favourite South African wine to date. One of my Top 50 Cellar Picks, and amongst my all-time wine favourites for price:quality, the Meerlust Rubicon.

Actually, it was the 2000 vintage of the Meerlust Rubicon that really caught my fancy. A nose of woodsy tannins and black cherries introduces the 2000 Meerlust Rubicon (70% Cab Sauv, 20% Merlot, Cab Franc), but so much complexity here...green pepper, later some butterscotch, cloves and dark flowers, white pepper and cooked meat, flint and leather...a joyous symphony for the nose. Dense tannins envelop dark cherry fruit, resulting in delayed satisfaction - it took some time for this wine to open up and sort itself out. But when it did it opened beautifully...velvety tannins, crisp fruit and a deliciously lengthy finish. This could easily go another decade, I wish I had more.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$27 (SAQ)

The younger 2004 Meerlust Rubicon (63% Cab Sauv, 27% Merlot, Cab Franc) still retained the Bordeaux-like aromas that I loved in the 2000 - very green peppery, with gamey meat, damp old oak, leather and liquorice, black smoke and ripe, hot climate, fruit that made me think of the Languedoc. Gorgeous mouthfeel, with luscious fruit and fine-grained woodsy tannins, a balanced but modest finish. Just a shade less impressive than the 2000. No need to cellar this wine, it is ready now after a short decant.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$26.20 (SAQ)

You Say Shiraz, I Say Syrah: A Tasting with Marcus and Friends

2009-11-06T21:18:00.004-05:00

Marcus was one of the first wine bloggers I ever exchanged comments with, all those years ago....but Marcus has moved off the blogosphere and onto Facebook, so I see less of him around these parts. No matter - instead of sharing electronic wine commentary we get together regularly (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9) and share a glass of the real stuff!

To celebrate moving into his new apartment Marcus invited a few friends over for Syrah/Shiraz tasting. It was a diverse group of tasters, a wide range of wine experience, and an ecclectic collection of wines, but tonight this combined with a casual, laugh-out-loud, wine-tasting atmosphere that was simply a ton of fun.

So how did we get six Shirazes and not a single Aussie wine?! Strange, but it gave us a chance to try a few South African Syrahs...here we go.

First Flight:

Our first wine was the 2008 Errazuriz Estate Shira , a very modern-styled Syrah that could easily have passed for entry-level Oz Shiraz. Chocolate, sulfur, and medicinal notes, some violets and tar. Big fruit, soft and smooth, with delicate tannins and a short finish. Nothing fancy, but actually very nice at this price - it could easily compete with some of the more famous entry-level Aussie Shirazes. Score: 15.5/20

The 2006 Tardieu-Laurent "Les Grands Augustins" was very French. Stark, with grenadine and flint, meaty, cheesy and minerally, some tar as well. Very elegant, very polished on the palate, with wet gravel binding the crisp cherry fruit tightly. A tremendous finish, a vin de garde (for a modest price), and (ever-so-slightly) my favourite of the evening. Score: 17.5/20*

The 2005 Bellingham "The Maverick" Syrah was a very good wine. Cherries and herbs, wet black earth, a can of stale cola with spicy oak overpowering all. Heavy, tannic, brooding, getting jammy over the evening, but keeping its velvet spiciness. A bit too heavy on the oak, but deliciously complex nonetheless...Score: 17/20

Second Flight:

Not a bad wine, but the 2004 Graham Beck Shiraz didn't stand out either. A pretty nose, cherry, cheese and wet dog (yes, wet dog can be pretty...). Jammy and chocolatey on the palate, a decent finish. Score: 16/20

Wow! Surprise, surprise. Knowing there was a Canadian Shiraz I automatically assumed it would suck, so this wine taught me a valuable lesson. And I didn't think it would suck because it was Canadian, I just thought Mission Hill sucked - I was wrong (at least with this wine)... The 2006 Mission Hill Reserve Shiraz was stunning - spicy sausage and black fruit mix with violets and green tannins on the nose. Light, fresh, a touch bitter on the palate, but delicious fruit. Very much like the Tardieu-Laurent, but with better fruit. Score: 17.5/20

My contribution of the evening was a very unimpressive bottle of Cornas, even more disappointing as I have tasted this bottle before and I thought it was a shoe-in for the gold medal. The 2003 Delas Chante-Perdrix Cornas was easily the priciest wine of the night, embarassingly so. A nose unlike anything else - cream soda, some jammy fruit, but otherwise rather uninteresting. A soft, vanishing palate with no acidity - not offensive, just ... boring. Could this bottle be dead? I hang my head in shame...Score: 14.5/20

So, chalk one up for Mission Hill and a big thanks to Marcus. If you are a member of Facebook, check out Marcus' photos and notes here.

2007 Masi Modello delle Venezie

2009-11-02T22:26:00.003-05:00

What I love about Masi is the consistency - the wines are ubiquitous, and yet almost every Masi wine I have ever tasted has been above average quality and a great value for the price. I would have to think long and hard of a winery that comes as close to a sure thing - sure to be in the shop or on the restaurant menu, and sure to represent a good value (Campofiorin and Brolio labels come to mind). Tonight's wine further affirms this.

The 2007 Masi Modello delle Venezie was a "hey, never seen this before" pick, and Masi once again delivers. Dark, earthy, leathery raspberries, later some pruneyness ... so deep and brooding on the nose that I was rather surprised when this light, crisp, and fresh juice crossed my palate, delivering earthy, minerally berries and some enjoyable bitterness. A short finish, but who cares? Drink this tasty red now - great with food, at an astonishingly great price. Bravo! (made from local varietals Corvina and Raboso)
cork. 12% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$13.95 (SAQ)

2007 Terra di Corsica Nielluccio-Syrah

2009-10-29T22:38:00.001-04:00

Nielluccio? Ok, I thought I had discovered something new, but this is in fact the Corsican name for Sangiovese. Maybe the wine will be a more exciting discovery?

The 2007 Terra di Corsica Nielluccio-Syrah was another quirky gift from my brother-in-law. Leathery, earthy, dark berry fruit on the nose, some pepper and chalk...pretty good. Rather undistinguished on the palate, with a finish that lasted nanoseconds, but nothing wrong with this - I'd recommend you pick up the Gabbiano instead for a Sangiovese fix (same price).
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 15.5/20
Price: C$14.60 (SAQ) for the 2008

2003 Chateau D'Armailhac

2009-10-25T16:46:00.002-04:00

This was another treasure from my 2003 Bordeaux futures order. For a wine of this pedigree, a Fifth Growth from the Rothschild empire, I would normally have waited a few more years, but this particular bottle had a cork pressing against the foil so I was worried about leaving this one for a long period of time. Besides, most of my 2003 tastings have indicated this is a vintage that is now hitting its stride.

The 2003 Chateau D'Armailhac (Pauillac) showed its pedigree with a gorgeous nose - spicy, damp black earth and green ferns, liquorice, hazelnuts and wet coffee grounds, blackberries and very, very violet...subtle, but incredibly complex. Light, fresh, and a touch bitter on the palate with suprisingly green tannins for this vintage. A nice long finish envelops the tongue in a velvety carpet of cherry tannins and nice, subtle fruit. A touch unbalanced at first taste, but opening nicely over evening - should age well, I'll try again in 2-3 years.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$54 (LCBO)

2007 Dashe Zinfandel

2009-10-21T22:22:00.001-04:00

This Zin took a long, circuitous, route to get to Montreal, accompanying my in-laws on a cross-North America driving tour (with a stop in Sonoma, of course). The lengths they would go to guilt me into drinking Zin...

The 2007 Dashe Todd Brothers Ranch Old Vine Zinfandel (Alexander Valley) was pretty darn good - leathery blueberries, damp earth, then some white pepper and rose petals. Thick, hot blueberries and (modest) silky tannins coat the palate - this is big jammy fruit. Rather delicious for the style, just shy of the finesse I've found in the best Zins.
cork. 14.7% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: gift

White Burgundy Blues

2009-10-17T17:23:00.003-04:00

One thing that drives me crazy about my wine group is just how difficult it is to get them to sit down and taste white wines. After twisting their arms I finally got them to agree to a white wine evening and it was fabulous. Despite this, it has taken me two years to get the gang to agree to another white tasting and unfortunately this was less successful...

But it SHOULD have been a success - a bunch of winos with reasonable wine budgets were tasked to find some White Burgundies (my idea), but somewhere between idea and execution it flopped.

This was absolutely no fault of the host - Chris put on a tremendous spread of aquatic delicacies, so incredible that we saw very little of him that evening as he was continuously shuttling between the bbq and the table, serving up steamed fish and grilled seafood - truly stunning, over the top decadent, actually.

But the disappointment was the wine, a rarity in my group tastings. There were simply no "wow" moments, as wine after wine went from pretty good to ho-hum...

Interestingly, tonight's flight of wines included two of EXACTLY the same wine, and two of the same wine but different vintages - here are my notes:

The crowd favourite was Ash's 2005 Domaine Cordier Juliette la Grande from Pouilly-Fuise, definitely not the appellation I expected to win. Crisp apples, white flowers, pear and a hint of limes on the nose, flavourful and crisp, minerally and focused on the palate. Score: 17.5/20

Ok, so I threw in a non-Burgundy "surprise", and my 2005 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay ranked a surprising second place in this flight of pricey Burgundies. Woody, citrussy and a some cheesey notes, but absolutely impeccable on the palate, with acid, minerals and fruit in near perfect harmony. Great balance, a tremendous finish, this wine is sooo underpriced. Score: 18/20

Saving our tasters from embarrassment, the third and fourth place wines (brought by Cam and Chris) were in fact the same and scored nearly identically by most tasters. The 2006 Bouchard Pere et Fils Meursault "Le Porusot" was buttery apples, white flowers and a subtle "green-ness" on the nose, soft and creamy on the palate with good acidity, nearly perfect balance. This was the kind of wine I thought we'd see more of tonight. Score: 17/20

Sticking to the theme, my other wine was a Chablis. But my 2006 Moreau et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir underperformed where I thought it would show. Citrus and flowers with some expected apple notes, incredibly finessed and well structured - firm, minerally, but with nice fruit and a very long finish. More controversial (scores all over the place), but my style of Chablis. Score: 17.5/20

Next was Pramod's 2003 Louis Jadot Meursault Genevrières - it started ok, with pretty caramel apples and green grass, but it was awkward and flat on the palate - tasty on another evening, but surrounded by too many great wines today. Score: 16.5/20

Interestingly, the last place wine was the 2002 Domaine Cordier Juliette la Grande, an older vintage of our first place wine. Very intriguing on the nose - almost Sauternes-like, with caramel and cooked fruit, dried apricots and floral notes. Unfortunately it had faded on the palate and was soft and unfocused - very different from the other wines. A wine that seemed past its prime, but it struck me as a wine that was probably VERY good in its prime. Score: 16/20

Personally, my disappointment was with the concentration of the wines amongst a few vineyards - I just don't feel like we captured the essence of white Burgundy today. But even more disappointing is the knowledge that it could be a VERY long time before I get the gang to agree to another white wine tasting.

Gracefully Aging Gruner: 2006 Hopler

2009-10-13T21:28:00.002-04:00

I only recently (past 3 years) set aside a few whites for aging, so these are just starting to come out of my cellar. Some Chablis, white Rioja, German Rieslings, and tonight's Grüner Veltliner - no rhyme or reason, just wherever my (infinite) curiousity took me.

So, does aging improve your Gruner? Too early to tell - the 2006 Höpler Grüner Veltliner welcomed with a nose of freshly cut apples, a hint of white flowers, some minerality and creamy custard later but pretty simple overall. An initial impression of softness on the palate is misleading, hiding its firm acidic structure and mouthfull of juicy apples - ripe and crisp, with a notable minerality. That acid and minerality points to continued improvements with cellar time, but it is too early to see this improvement.
plastic cork. 11.5% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$22 (Opimian)

2003 in Bordeaux: du Tertre and Lagrange

2009-10-09T23:03:00.007-04:00

My last post featured wines from the uncelebrated, but uncontroversial, 1999 vintage. Tonight we go to the left bank to taste some wines from the more controversial 2003 vintage. According to Stephen Brook's excellent "The Complete Bordeaux", 2003 was "...a year of extremes." Extreme heat led to early veraison, early picking, and yields were low. Generally speaking, the red wines of this vintage are supposed to tend towards more fruit, higher alcohol and lower in acidity, leading to significantly divergent takes on the vintage by different critics. From my tastings of '03, this vintage was not dramatically fruity, but I do find the acidity low and the aging potential seems more limited vs. other vintages. On the plus side, the '03s tend to be approachable in their youth - drink these while your 2000s are sleeping away in the cellar.

The 2003 Chateau Lagrange (St-Julien) showed substantially more dark berry fruit (very, very black curranty) on the nose, slate and nuts in support. Smooth, elegant, with soft, ample, tannins and a nice long finish, but a touch of that summer heat coming through.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$55 (LCBO)

For the 2003 Chateau du Tertre (Margaux) a nose of dark, burnt wood, wet stones, pepper and fresh vanilla beans introduced a palate of crisp cherry fruit and bitter green (in a good way) held firm by stoney minerality - better structured, with a lengthy finish, this Margaux needs some cellar time to come together and will probably be the better of the two.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$49 (LCBO)

1999 in Bordeaux: a Pessac Leognan and a St-Emilion

2009-10-05T21:10:00.002-04:00

When I first started collecting the wines of Bordeaux I lived for the vintage reports. The problem is that vintage reports are an overall, or "average", view of mother nature's gifts over a broad geography. When you use these reports for a large region like Bordeaux, you are bound to pick up few clunkers in a great vintage and a few gems in an "off" vintage - vintage reports are pretty good guide, but you can never be to sure.

For example, tonight's two wines were excellent, despite coming from a difficult 1999 vintage that was not notable for late season rains and rot that apparently plagued many producers.

Tasted here before (1,2), the 1999 Chateau Carbonnieux (Pessac Leognan) served up musty, woodsy, black cherries, later rewarding us with some basil, thyme and pencil shavings. Blinded I was thinking it was the St-Emilion - soft and velvety smooth...its elegance nearly masking an enduring finish of wet, black earth. Deliciously Bordeaux.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: C$65 (SAQ)

On my right was another repeat, the 1999 Moulin St-Georges (St-Emilion). A glassful of toasty new oak, old leather and black cherries to sniff, a chameleon as it shifted and changed over the evening. Spicy, crisp blackberries on the palate over substantial tannins, which presented this offering as a touch more awkward. Greater presence and complexity, but a touch rougher around the edges - in a very good way.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$65 (LCBO)

2006 Placet

2009-10-01T21:19:00.002-04:00

Over the past two or three years I started to put a few whites aside in my cellar for aging - mostly German whites and a few Chablis, but I have also set aside some oddities as an experiment.

I wouldn't think to age a white Rioja, but a tasting with Marcus gave me the idea to cellar this 2006 Palacios Remondo Placet. A gorgeous nose of creamy golden butter, white flowers, hints of citrus, banana and papaya, citrus peel, some grassy woodsy notes. The beauty continues on the palate, complex, flavourful and tremendously well balanced, with a soft, luscious finish. While this is not yet "old", it is aging well and I have one more bottle for a future redo
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$29.95 (SAQ)

White Coulliore

2009-09-27T22:27:00.003-04:00

My in-laws went to France two years ago, and since that time they have tried a number of Languedoc reds on me, from Coulliore in particular. Tonight I thought I'd turn the tables and try a WHITE Coulliore on them...

The 2007 Les Clos de Paulilles (Collioure) is 100% Grenache blanc, and it has been some time since I last tasted one of those. An intriguing nose...lemon jelly and butterscotch, vanilla and graham cracker, flint and a hint of white flowers. All soft and fruity on the palate, it tastes of warmth and sunshine - smooth and flavourful with some decent minerality, but flabby and a bit hot - not terribly so, but just enough to be noticed.
cork. 13.5% alcohol.
Score: 16/20
Price: C$21.50 (SAQ)

2003 Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional

2009-09-24T22:31:00.000-04:00

I just lost my camera - stolen, more accurately - and to add insult to injury I lost a number of bottle shots as well. At least my trusty blackberry was there to save a few for posterity...

The unimpressive image of the 2003 Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional above is at odds with the beauty inside this bottle. A bouquet of sour cherries, old oak/damp wood, some vanilla, currant, and subtle floral notes - later some attractive greenness, white pepper and subtle notes of allspice...aromatic and truly gorgeous. Crisp, flavourful, fruit and flowers deliver an impressively long, silky, finish without being overly tannic. Incredibly well balanced, and a catalyst for a few more purchases from this winery.
Cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$30.25 (SAQ)

(PS - new camera purchased, but a few more posts before it appears...)

A Sip of Long Island: Bedell Cellars

2009-09-20T22:31:00.004-04:00

Long Island Wine is, for the most part, a local delicacy. With just 3000 acres under vine and an annual production of 500,000 cases you won't find much wine leaving the country, and it would probably be a rare wine shop that carried any sort of selection outside of New York and the neighbouring states.

But a wedding on Shelter Island put me a stone's throw away from Long Island's North Fork wineries. I regret to inform that this was NOT a wine tour - the wife and kids made sure of that - but I did have time for one stop, and local knowledge directed me to Bedell Cellars.

I coughed up 12$ for the "Premium" Flight, and this was how it went:

The 2007 Bedell Chardonnay Reserve was steel and oak aged - oaky, buttery, ripe red apple, with some wet stones, almost caramelly on the nose. Lighter bodied, tart and pleasing, short finish. 13% alcohol, Score: 16/20

The 2007 Bedell Gallery was an interesting blend of Chardonnay (69%), Sauvignon blanc (19%), and Viognier. Fleeting floral notes on the nose, probably from the viognier, but tangy citrussy and apricot aromas dominate, some toast. Terribly well balanced, and more flavourful than the Chardonnay, delicious spicy fruit... 13% alcohol, Score: 16.5/20

Long Island is famous for its Merlot (a grape getting a lot more play at Joe's house these days...), so I wasn't going to miss Bedell's red offerings:

The 2007 "Taste" Red was a blend of Merlot (56%), Cab Sauv (25%) and Syrah. Noticeably green and earthy at first, pretty violets, cedar and a hint of dark syrah berries on the nose. A spicy palate with tasty green tannins and gooseberries, a light- to medium-bodied everyday red. 13% alcohol, Score: 16/20

A whiff of the 2006 Bedell Reseve Merlot revealed smokey, dark earth, new leather, blackberries and vanilla, maybe some charcuterie - nicely done! Gritty, dark fruit, a good balance between fruit and acid, very Bordeaux like. This tastes too young - it has the acid, tannin and fruit to keep, I would age this one. 13% alcohol, Score: 17/20

The winery's signature offering was the 2006 Musée, predominantly Merlot (75%), but with some Cab Sauv (13%) and Petit Verdot blended in. Lovely aromas of green herbs, blackberries and roses, damp earth and crisp cherries, chalky... Soft and fruity on the palate, but with dense, velvety tannins, and a nice long finish. Lush, complex and very well balanced. 13% alcohol, Score 17.5/20

Overall, the offerings were very well done across the board, even those sips I had from my wife's flight of entry-level wines (the 2007 Merlot was particularly notable as a great value).

I would not dare make any generalizations about Long Island wine based on a 2 hour stop at a single winery, but I think I can say this - nearly every wine I tasted or saw in local shops was 1% to 1.5% lower in alcohol than their California bretheren. Perhaps it is climate, or a conscious effort to be "different" from their West Coast winemaking peers, but this observation and the wines that I tasted tell me that something different is going on in Long Island - and this "different" is more in line with the kind of wine I am seeking out these days...

PS - Congrats Rob (my Napa and Sonoma partner in crime) and Ellyn!

2005 Tabernero Gran Tinto Reserve

2009-09-16T21:17:00.001-04:00

My bro-in-law has a philosophy that if there is a wine on the shelf at the SAQ that doesn't make sense, it is probably good. Case in point - who in Montreal goes trolling around the Peruvian wine section looking for $15 Malbec/Merlot? After all, the SAQ is one of the world's largest wine buyers - it must have been good to make it onto their shelf, especially since the product profile is not an obvious sell, right?

The logic seems to fly tonight, as the 2005 Tabernero Gran Tinto Reserve (50:50 Malbec Merlot) was a pretty darn good wine, especially at this price. It started with a powerfully funky, nose - we couldn't agree on barnyardy or sour milk, but that odour blew off before we were finished the debate, and the wine opened up to reveal dark berries, black pepper, old oak and hints of vanilla. Dry, with dense berry fruit and a decent finish, it was maybe lacking acidity and almost a bit too spicy. More Malbec than Merlot, a tasty wine for my first ever Peruvian.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 15.5/20
Price: C$14.60 (SAQ)

2003 Vray Croix de Gay

2009-09-12T21:23:00.006-04:00

It is a rare evening when I pull two 18+ point wines from my cellar (also enjoyed this evening), but with two members of my wine group coming by for a drink I had to dig deep, and Pomerol is deep ($$$, that is). The pricing for Pomerol offerings is such that I have very few, so I was actually surprised to find this resting at the bottom of one of my Bordeaux bins.

The 2003 Chateau Vray Croix de Gay demonstrated exactly why Pomerols are so pricey, and further added to a suspicion that merlot is my new love...An absolutely gorgeous nose, brimming with rose petals and sandalwood, wild stawberries and damp forest, dark cocoa powder and leather, nuts (almonds) and plums...I could open another bottle just to smell this again. Fresh and well balanced on the palate, with a long, silky finish. A joy to drink, and a greater joy knowing I have two more bottles in my cellar.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$85 (LCBO futures)

2004 Descendientes de J. Palacios "Villa de Corullon"

2009-09-08T21:22:00.001-04:00

I find one of the greatest challenges is to open something for a visiting oenophile - can I find something impressive that they have not yet tasted?

I went out on a bit of a limb with this 2004 Descendientes de J. Palacios Villa de Corullón from Spain's very intriguing Bierzo region. (Well, not entirely on a limb, as I have enjoyed the wines of this maker before) Crafted from the Mencia grape, the Villa begins wild and meaty, later showing some cassis, black ink and an exotic spiciness on the nose as well...joyous! Smartly enveloping the palate...earthy, minerally, with sublime, delicate tannins and impeccable balance, this beautiful wine was still evolving, improving, as Cosme and I emptied the decanter.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 18+/20
Price: C$55 (SAQ)

2007 Irurtia Gewurztraminer

2009-09-04T23:34:00.006-04:00

My brother-in-law loves to surprise me with the quirky and unexpected, so it's back to South America for an...Uruguayan Gewürz?

Pale white gold in the glass, the 2007 Irurtia Gewürztraminer shouted classic Gewürz notes of soapy flowers, followed by hints of lime rind. Clean and fresh, little acidity but some minerality to hold it together. A classic gewurtz, tasty and flavourful - I quite liked it (especially at this price), but I can't say that Gewürz has resonated with me of late.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 14.5/20
Price: C$13.00 (SAQ)

2007 Quinta dos Roques Vinho Tinto

2009-08-31T22:10:00.004-04:00

Bought on account of a tremendous experience with the higher end "Reserve" bottling (notes soon) from this Portuguese estate, this entry level red was equally impressive.

The 2007 Quinta dos Roques Vinho Tinto (Da0), bright cherry red in the glass and with so much going on on the nose - spicy, cedary and earthy to start, some old leather, tart blackberries, and herbal/medicinal notes in the backstage. Fresh and spicy on the palate, excellent balance between the fruit, tannins, and acidity. Silky textured with a pleasing finish, but some heat showing later. No matter - seriously good juice at this price.
Cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$15.90 (SAQ)

Celebrating with a 2002 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin

2009-08-27T22:44:00.002-04:00

No matter how often I hear that Champagne is NOT just for special occasions, I ALWAYS save Champagne for special occasions. Cava - now that's an everyday wine - but not Champagne. This bottle was opened to celebrate my first Olympic distance triathlon (is it wrong to celebrate athletic achievement with alcohol?).

The 2002 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, a gift from my wife, was rather noteworthy for being...well not noteworthy. Classic buttery, lemony, croissant...minerally, with a hint of white flowers. A soft, creamy, mousse and delicately textured, some crisp lemon and bitters. Great persistency, but rather ho-hum for being so technically correct and emotionally flat. Maybe it was just a mood thing.
cork. 12% alcohol
Score: 16/20

Obscure Wine Appellations: 2007 Domaine des Ballandors Quincy

2009-08-23T22:49:00.001-04:00

Surely a Loire appellation, but what grape? Pondering this, I opened it as an apertif rather than mistakenly serve a Chenin Blanc when a Sauvignon Blanc was called for...

The 2007 Domaine des Ballandors (Quincy) was fresh and joyful on the nose, some soapy white flowers at first, later fading to pink grapefruit...some minerality as well. On the palate a near perfect balance of fruit and acidity for a Sauvignon Blanc, and a fine-grain minerality and bitter citrus rind. Delicious, but should be at this price.
Cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$21.25 (SAQ)

Cheap Rosés for Breast Cancer - A Guest Blog from Joe’s Wife

2009-08-20T18:19:00.001-04:00

I am honoured that Joe has allowed me a guest-blog spot, albeit to describe wines in which he has very little interest. My topic is the cheap rosé wines available in grocery stores and depanneurs (Quebecoise for “corner-stores”) throughout Quebec.

Many wine gourmands may disagree, but I believe that rosé wines have their place - I find a well-chilled rosé particularly refreshing on a hot summer day, either on its own or while enjoying a plate of barbequed chicken or shrimp.

What caught my eye in the grocery store last week was a series of cheap, depanneur rosés marked with the pink ribbon synonymous with breast cancer awareness. On closer examination, I discovered that Vincor Quebec, the largest distributor of wines in Quebec, is donating money to the Quebec Breast Cancer Foundation for every bottle of rosé with a pink petal purchased. A detailed search of Vincor Quebec’s website as well as the Quebec Breast Cancer Foundation failed to uncover exactly how much will be donated per bottle purchased, however Vincor has pledged to raise $150,000 in 2009.

So, with thoughts of Joe’s mother who died of breast cancer, and my grandmother and cousin who where/are breast cancer survivors, I decided to drink some pink petal rosés and write a 2-part guest-blog piece reviewing these wines.

I randomly – and by randomly I mean that I picked based on the name and graphics displayed on the label - picked 3 rosés to taste from the Metro grocery store. All were between $10 and $12 per bottle. (Interestingly none of the cheap pink petal rosés indicate the vintage year.)

Caletta Vineyards Seleccion Espania: Of the three wines, this one had a more complex nose that was sweet, smelling of plum, cherry coughdrops, and roses. It was pleasantly sweet on the palate, with a hint of cherries. Not unexpected from a cheap rosé, it had very little length. However, it was very drinkable and matched well a dinner of barbequed chicken.
cork: 12% alcohol

Elle Rosé de France: Admittedly, I had been staring at the picture of the women’s eyes on this bottle for weeks, wanting to buy it. Like the Mona Lisa, they seemed to follow me wherever I went. However, the actual wine was not as intriguing as the image. On the nose, this wine was citrussy, reminding me of grapefruit, and slightly minty. Upon tasting, it was crisp, dry and acidic. It was easy-drinking on a warm evening, but not overly exciting.
Cork: 12% alcohol

Champs Elysées Paris, Rosé de France: This wine smelled of lemons and raspberries. Initially, I enjoyed the fresh, citrusy taste, however it left a slight bitter after taste on the back of my tongue afterward.
Cork: 12% alcohol

*Disclaimer: Prior to each tasting, I popped a pre-emptive antacid to prevent heartburn, which I believe added to my enjoyment of the wines. In addition, all rosés were well-chilled and were tasted with food.

(Editorial. With my good buddy Lloyd shirking his official guest blogger duties I have been reduced to pink charity wine! Seriously, my wife has a tremendous palate and has always been welcome to guest-blog - I didn't think she knew I had a website. The antacid aperitif is real, and more effective than the H2-chaser.)

2006 Henry of Pelham Cabernet Franc Ice Wine

2009-08-17T22:42:00.001-04:00

Cabernet Franc Ice Wine...my first thought is "oops, nobody knew what to do with the poor Cab Franc, so they left it in the field a little too long." Or maybe it was not an oversight, just a marketing gimmick - the Canadian answer to Sparkling Shiraz? Ok, I was a bit suspicious, but I have tasted some great Henry of Pelham white wines so I went in open minded.

Actually, I loved this 2006 Henry of Pelham Cabernet Franc Ice Wine - raspberry and botrytis notes, apricots, wild flowers and a hint of vanilla...kind of Sauternes-ish, but fruitier. Sweet and appley but not cloying, nicely balanced...thinking Sauternes again, but with a firmer acidity and minerally backbone. A very tasty gift from my brother and sister-in-law (you are too kind), but I would actually pay for this one again.
cork. 9.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Cost: gift

2007 CataMayor Reserva Viognier

2009-08-13T23:30:00.002-04:00

I seem to have an unquenchable thirst for odd vinous pleasures, so much so that tonight's Uruguayan Viognier seems rather...pedestrian?

Fortunately, this wine experiment turned out rather well. The 2007 CataMayor Reserva (Bodegas Castillo Viejo) sported classic Viognier notes, with soapy white flower finding some minerally support. A soft, luscious palate with tasty flavours of lime rind, it started thin at first, but had good balance and really opened up as it warmed from up. Modest, but pleasing - a great Viognier at this price.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 15.5/20
Price: C$14.60 (SAQ)

Mini Vertical #12: 1996 and 1999 Chateau Dauzan La Vergne

2009-08-09T21:20:00.004-04:00

My father-in-law has been a member of the Opimian Society for many years, Canada's largest, and longest-running, wine club. Chateau Pique Segue, a Bergerac estate, has been a long-time supplier to the Opimian, and recently offered some older vintages of its Dauzan La Vergne label to the society - and some of these found their way into my cellar when my in-laws sold their house :)

Visually older, with more brick colouring at the edges, the 1996 Chateau Dauzan la Vergne (Cotes de Bergerac) showed musty, cooked fruit (cherries), and green vegetal notes at first, later some almonds, cheese rind, then some black ash and mushrooms. Thin, light on the palate, green and tart, nutty, with a shorter finish than the 1999 below. Fairly complex, with a late flowering complexity on the nose...intriguing, but a touch rough, edgy, unbalanced. But this Bordeaux lookalike was drinking surprisingly well after three hours in the decanter.
Score: 16.5/20

The 1999 Chateau Dauzan la Vergne (Bergerac) was a deeper cherry red in the glass. Simpler, with a nose of musty undergrowth, some spice and old leather, but flatter than the 1996. A palate of peppery wet stones, both smoother and harsher at the same time, but becoming velvety over the evening. A riper, softer and more modest finish.
Score: 16/20

Both were quite oaky, heavy, and I have to admit that I am surprised how much time these old wines from "lesser" appellations needed to open up. I am not sure how much these cost, but I am guessing these present good values vs. true Bordeaux. And I wonder why these are from two different appellations?

(NOTE: Some healthy competition has been injected into the Canadian wine market with the recent creation of the Hemispheres Wine Guild, which I will address in a future post).

Seaview Sparkling Shiraz

2009-08-06T22:17:00.002-04:00

Ok, what the heck is this? Yes, I know sparkling Shiraz is not NEW. Could it be that Joe is so un-cool that he never tried one or these, or could it be that I am so horribly snobbish that I would never buy a sparkling Shiraz? I will not answer that question right now, but I still want to know: what the heck did they do to my Shiraz?!

The Seaview Sparkling Shiraz was a tantalizing purple-y colour with a pinkish foam, but there was no doubt on the nose that this wine was a Shiraz - Aussie Shiraz. But those vanilla, dark berry and violet notes were no preparation for the shocking interaction of big fruit, big tannins and foam on the palate. Big, soft, fruity bubbles, a surprisingly fine tannic structure - I couldn't decide whether I wanted the bubbles to disappear and the wine to warm to reveal the Shiraz, or the tannins and big fruit to disappear and reveal a bubbly. No need to decide - the bubbles faded fast and it became a regular Shiraz, tasty but modest. A clever novelty from the marketing department.
cork. 13% alchol
Score: 14/20
Price: gift

2006 Tait "The Ball Buster"

2009-08-03T15:15:00.002-04:00

Gimmicky names are a turn off for me, so when I was gifted this 2006 Tait "The Ball Buster" I kinda stuck it away in the cellar and forgot about it. A mistake, actually. This Barossa (78% Shiraz, 12% Cab, 10% Merlot) lived up to its name, with a big nose of blackberries, violets, leafy tobacco, some slate and very toasty oak. A big wallop of very spicy, smokey, big cherry fruit, but with some complexity and velvety tannins that held it together quite nicely - even that massive alcohol level was not overly obtrusive. Not everyone's cup of tea, but a thoroughly well-made, modern-styled, Aussie Shiraz if that is what you seek.
screw top. 15.7% alcohol
Score: 17/20 Price: gift

Mini Vertical #11: Vieux Telegraphes

2009-07-31T17:30:00.000-04:00

It is interesting to see what a few years in the cellar can do for a wine. Two years ago I was not highly complimentary of the 1998 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe "La Crau", yet time has done wonders for this bottle (tasted blind vs. its younger sibling, below). Starker, crisper, with scents of damp campfire embers, old leather, old cherries...spicy and cheesy, wet stones also compliment this gorgeous nose. On the palate it seemed older, more distinguished, focused, with soft velvety tannins, good acidity and a deceptively long finish. Nicely done.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: C$67 (SAQ)

Despite being three years younger, the 2001 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe "La Crau" showed more "bricking" at the edges, which mistakenly led me to believe this was the older bottle. More prunes and cooked fruit on the nose as well - perhaps this bottle was not as well treated as the '98 above? Beautiful aromas of wild flowers and meaty truffles, definitely the fruitier, jammier wine. Soft and oily at first, but a monster tannic presence and a long finish. Much hotter and less balanced, the three of us just didn't like it as much as the '98 above.
cork. 14.8% alcohol
Score: 17/20
Price: C$59 (SAQ)

2003 Michel Magnien Gevrey-Chambertin

2009-07-27T21:07:00.001-04:00

A few years back my wine buddy Neil recommended a visit to the Burgundy Wine Co., a Manhattan wine shop that is almost entirely focused on the wines of Burgundy. Back in those days I was going to New York on a regular basis and you could still bring wine in your carry on bags. Ahh, the good old days...

Well-endowed on the nose, the 2003 Michel Magnien Gevrey-Chambertin was a beautiful blend of cherry candy and musty, old shoe leather...prettied up with some fresh garden flowers. A silky palate, firmly held together with fresh acidity and a grainy minerality. Very well balanced, this wine is coming together very nicely in its 6th year, but with a terrific finish that hints at many more years of enjoyment.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: US$60 (Burgundy Wine Co.)

Beaujolais at L'Express

2009-07-23T20:53:00.004-04:00

L'Express is not a Montreal secret - smack dab in the middle of rue St-Denis, it is a Montreal icon, serving up exquisitely simple French Bistro fare. Glowing reviews are easy to find, yet in our 17 years here in Montreal my wife and I had never been. On her 40th Birthday I set out to make amends.

I will start out by simply saying that the food (the bone marrow appetizer was particularly notable) and service (wine served at the proper temperature) were wonderful and worthy of a repeat visit, but - as always - it was the wine I remembered best...

We decided on a glass of rose, which the waiter quickly poured from an open bottle of 2007 Colinot Bourgogne Rose. My good friend Cosme would cry knowing that red Burgundy grapes had been defiled and turned into a pink wine, but this was easily the best Rose I have had this season. Strawberries and green apples on the nose precede a smooth, deceptively simple palate that featured tangy green limes and a surprisingly long finish.

But Rose by the glass was just a start to the evening, ably whetting our palate for the main event. I commend the waiter for guiding me up the price list to a cheaper wine, and he promised great things from this 2006 Chateau Thivin Côte de Brouilly Cuvée La Chapelle. Wow.
Rosemary and earthy notes enveloped ancient leather, adding some gamey notes and berries, fresh off the vine. A palate of delicious, fresh, and vibrant raspberry fruit, great minerality and terrific balance, it evolved nicely and was poised to the finish. Probably not for aging, but very complex nonetheless. So much joy at this price point - I can't remember the last time I had wine at a resto for less than 50 bucks and truly immersed myself in it.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 17.5/20
Price: ~C$42 (menu)

2004 Vice Versa 'Le Petit Vice' Cabernet Sauvignon

2009-07-20T21:14:00.004-04:00

Napa is filled with little boutique wineries like Vice Versa. The winery's flagship Cabernet Sauvignon has received rave reviews, but tonight we are tasting their second wine, 'Le Petit Vice'.

The 2004 Vice Versa 'Le Petit Vice' Cabernet Sauvignon featured a predictable nose of jammy berries and vanilla, violets and blackberries, pepper, slate - some lovely notes, but the heat of the alcohol was noticeable. Hot on the palate as well...soft, jammy fruit and a bit flabby, the pleasing but modest tannins just holding the ripe berries together. A tasty modern-styled Cab, but rather indistinguishable in a sea of Napa Cabs. Drink now.
cork. 15% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: gift

2008 Domaine des Aubuisieres Cuvee de Silex

2009-07-17T21:05:00.006-04:00

Not many Loire wines around here of late and it has been two years since I last published on a Vouvray. And I really liked those, so what gives?

No idea, but this 2008 Domaine des Aubuisières Cuvée de Silex (Vouvray) questions that oversight. A welcoming nose of woodsy fruit, green apples and mangoes (mango rind?), a noticeable flintiness. A softly textured palate held together by grainy minerality. Not off dry in my mind, just a hint of sweet green apple. Very nice balance, and a joy to drink at this price.
cork. 13% alcohol.
Score: 16/20
Price: C$18.50 (SAQ)

2006 Dan Aykroyd Cabernet Shiraz

2009-07-14T21:08:00.003-04:00

Anybody can crack one good joke, so it stands to reason that a comedian could accidentally make one good wine. Following a recent success with a Dan Aykroyd Cabernet Merlot I decided to try his Cabernet Shiraz to see if Dan got lucky, or if he is really on to something.

The 2006 Dan Aykroyd Cabernet Shiraz was deeper purple and fruitier than the cab/merlot, but with nice vegetal notes, some blackberries, flint and a hint of cocoa...leathery notes appearing later in the evening. Equally pleasing on the palate - smooth and well balanced, perhaps lacking the length and structure of the greats, but this was a 15$ wine! I probably liked the cabernet/merolot better, but this wine is another winner. Nicely done Dan, and very impressive at this price point.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$ (LCBO)

Footnote:
Pondering Dan's wines, I wondered - is Dan deliberately trying to avoid the New World fruit bomb (neither of his wines were jammy fruit bombs or high in alcohol), or has the Canadian climate and a young vineyard prevented him from going that route? Only time will tell, but I hope that Dan keeps this more reserved style of winemaking in the years to come.

Obscure Wine Appellations: 2007 Argiolas Perdera Monica di Sardegna

2009-07-11T21:12:00.001-04:00

It was inevitable that my tour through quirky wine appellations would dredge up a few interesting grapes to pad my Century Club resume, like today's Monica di Sardegna. In the Monica di Sardegna appellation the Monica grape, a red varietal rarely seen outside of Sardinia, must be at least 85% of the final blend, the balance made up using other red Sardinian varietals.

The 2007 Argiolas Perdera Monica di Sardegna was green and earthy on the nose, also showing dark currants, ink and liquorice. Crisp and grainy black currants on the palate, a modest finish, rustic yet refined at the same time - the Marlboro man in a glass. I quite liked it, and I think lovers of Loire reds would love this too.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$15.80 (SAQ)

2007 Domaine de L'Olivette Bandol

2009-07-08T21:15:00.005-04:00

Ok, so I've had Bandol before - those big, inky Mourvedres from the south of France - but a WHITE Bandol? This I had to try.

With pork chops I would usually go for something Alsatian or Germanic, but the cellar was a bit thin today so I gave it a shot.

The 2007 Domaine de L'Olivette Bandol offered a nose of soapy white flowers, limey apricot...almost cognac-like on the nose. A soft, luscious palate, and the lack of acidity is compensated in part by a nice, firm minerality holding it together. I would have guessed Viognier, but in this appellation the whites are made from Clairette, Bourboulenc and Ugni blanc. Worth a try, but at 25$ I would suggest a white Languedoc or Cotes du Rhone.
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$25 (SAQ)

Worked well with the BBQ pork chops...

Obscure Wine Regions: Dogliani

2009-07-05T21:30:00.002-04:00

Italy has so many obscure wine appellations, but I thought I had a good handle on those. Then I saw this Dogliani. Ok, so it is not that mysterious - a Dolcetto from Piedmont - but something new, I'm a big fan of Dolcetto, and there are not too many on offer at the local wine shops.

The appellation of Dogliani (or Dolcetto di Dogliani) lies to the south in the Piedmont wine region, fashioning wines from this oft-neglected Piemontese grape. According to my good friend David, this region was only granted DOCG status, Italy's highest quality ranking, in 2005. You can read more on this appellation here.

I was very impressed with this example, the 2005 Siri d'Jermu Dolcetto di Dogliani by Pecchenino. A beautiful, earthy nose with ripe dark fruit - much riper that Dolcetto d'Alba's I have tasted - some cedary notes and a subtle use of oak. Good length on the palate, with generous but pleasing tannins, very flavourful but with modest acidity. A very nice package, but perhaps lacking the presence of top Dolcetto d'Albas I have tasted.
cork. 14% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$24.95 (SAQ)

1990 Montus Cuvee Prestige (Magnum)

2009-07-02T04:23:00.004-04:00

About two years ago the SAQ received a special order of older vintage, large format bottles from Montus and Bouscasse. Old Madiran from M. Alain Brumont? Surely there would be a lineup for such a treasure! I dutifully made my way to the store well before opening time, but I soon realized that I was the only person there with similar intentions...surely there are Madiran fans out there, somewhere?

After this stunning 1990 Chateau Montus Cuvee Prestige (Madiran) Magnum, I don't care if nobody digs this stuff the way I do - more for me at better prices. New leather, oak embers, black earth, roses and crisp, spicy cherries - my guests were content simply basking in this bouquet. A deep sea of velvety tannins on the palate, omnipresent but well integrated, the most incredible interplay of ample tannins and fresh acidity I have ever tasted. Add to this earthy dark berries, impressive minerality and substantial length - my in-laws were VERY impressed.
cork. 12.5% alcohol
Score: 18/20
Price: ~C$217 (SAQ)

1998 Loacker Corte Pavone

2009-06-29T21:30:00.002-04:00

Well, Barry has finally taken me to task for my increasingly lame attempts at back-posting old notes - after all, is a new post dated four weeks ago "new"? No shortage of wine notes over here, but Barry is right - this back-posting nonsense must end. I declare June 2009 "The Lost Month" - that's it, no back posts...

So tonight we are opening a Brunello, which always feels like cause for celebration. Maybe it is the cost of these wines, or perhaps it is the age (I always let these sit for a while), but I open these so rarely that I find the simple act of saying "Brunello tonight" is celebratory. Tonight's 1998 Loacker Corte Pavone was a gift from the wife (so I'd better say something nice...) - classic leather and black cherries with hints of tobacco and flinty cloves - kinda what you'd expect from sangiovese grosso. On the palate it was a touch rustic, making me think of how wine used to be made...a firm acid structure and deceptively firm silky tannins, it was hot and a bit awkward at first, smoothing out a touch over the evening (but not enough)
cork. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 17/20

ahhh, it feels great to be up to date - thank you for liberating me Barry! And with a mountain of material I don't need to drink anything for weeks...

Cheers!

No Wine Allowed?

2009-05-28T22:15:00.001-04:00

Saw this at a park in Montreal - am I reading this right? And why pick on wine - haven't they heard the news about resveratrol?

2006 Henry of Pelham Reserve Riesling

2009-05-24T23:27:00.001-04:00

Well, you wouldn't know it by the weather, but Spring is rapidly fading into Summer and the white wines are flying out of my cellar. Not true, actually - tonight's wine never made it into the JoeCave...

My simple view of Canadian (Niagara) wine is that Germanic/Alsatian/Burgundian varietals work, Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah do not. It is not a well informed view, as I rarely partake in the hometown hooch, but every additional tasting of Niagara's wares seems to further entrench this view.

With that in mind I was positively predisposed to the 2006 Henry of Pelham Reserve Riesling (Short Hills Bench) that arrived as a gift from our good friends, Peter and Tara. Stoney minerality, bitter lime rinds, and white flowers on the nose, accented by damp hay and some green melon...very nicely done! Simple, fresh, citrussy, minerally, a Riesling to make a Canuck proud.
screw top. 12% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Cost: gift

2008 Cono Sur Vision Viognier

2009-05-20T23:26:00.001-04:00

After such a nice experience with Cono Sur's "Visión" Pinot Noir I have been looking for an excuse to try the rest of the Visión lineup. That excuse came while on a shopping run for whites, and it had been a while since I have opened a Viognier....

The 2008 Cono Sur Visión Viognier was like spring cleaning, all floral and soapy, clearing out the red wine cobwebs gathered over a long Montreal winter. Peachy notes and some wet stones as well, a prelude to a flavourful white wine...bitter and tangy with nice minerality and a soft, luxurious mouthfeel...one of the nicest new world Viogniers I have ever tasted (and the bottle disappeared very quickly!).
screw top. 13.5% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$18.65 (SAQ)

XO in Hôtel Le St-James

2009-05-16T21:25:00.000-04:00

The Hôtel Le St-James is a famous Montreal landmark, a boutique hotel in Montreal's increasingly trendy old port, and tonight's business dinner gave me a chance to try their rather posh restaurant, XO.

Our first wine was the 2005 Lucien Muzard et Fils Santenay Gravières. I had tasted the 2004 version recently and speculated that the 2005 would be bigger, fleshier...nope. Fresh strawberries, old leather, slate and hints of cola, but a bit too smokey (too much oak) on the nose. Crisp, fresh berries and stark minerality - tight and less fleshy than most 2005s. Angular at first, but softening nicely over the evening...my style of Burgundy. Score: 16.5/20

Our next wine was a Zickefoose Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma. This special order, recommended by the sommelier, is not on the current wine list so the vintage details (2004 or 2005) are lost forever. Nice green pepper and vegetal notes, some minty cocoa and blackberries as well. Fleshy blackberry on the palate, it was fresh and lively yet silky smooth and incredibly well balanced at the same time. A modest finish, drink now. Score: 17/20

I was not picking wines tonight, just nudging my buddy Lloyd along, but the wines and the pairings were spectacular. I didn't take any notes on the food, but the food was of very high quality and the service and ambience at XO were excellent.

Cheers!

Uber IGTs: A Tour of Italy's Most Expensive "Table Wine"

2009-05-13T18:49:00.005-04:00

Eden's night of Tuscan wines was a prelude to a show-stopping, Uber-Tuscan night of over-the-top wines: Masseto, Sassicaia, Ornellaia....

Yes, our first IGT (Italian "table wines") night delivered an impressive slate of wines (even if the best wines were not IGT...) but what I really liked about this evening was the narrow score distribution - I think the group would agree that this may have been the narrowest distribution of scores in one of our grand tastings, which led to lots of debate and no consistency in the rank orders. But out of this disorder I managed to glean the following notes:

Well, it wasn't even close - with four first place and two second place rankings Cosme's 2001 Ornellaia (65% Cab Sauv, 30% Merlot, Cab Franc) was the clear winner. But wait, it's not an IGT? No one complained, as this 'Bolgheri DOC Superiore' wowed with an beautiful and exquisitely complex nose - clearly Bordeaux-like, with spicy oak and dark fruit, layers and layers of aromas...violets and roses, sour cherries and white pepper, leather and cloves with some underlying green pepper and vegetal notes. Soft and silky on the palate, very easy to enjoy today but I felt it was touch flabbier and unstructured vs. the others, and that became more evident as the evening progressed. Score: 18/20

Cosme took the silver as well, bringing a 1999 Sassicaia (85% Cab Sauv, Cab Franc) that ranked close behind the Ornellaia, but got there very differently. Another Bolgheri (didn't somebody tell him it was IGT night?), I did NOT like the way this one started out from the decanter - a heavy dose of sulphury oak at first sniff, it took a while to blow off and reveal some sour cherries, old leather, later some green pepper and notes of cheese rind. Powerfully built, pounding the palate with dense tannins and a finish that lasted all night. All power and no finesse today, but this is still in its youth and I predict great things when this bottle finally sorts itself out. Score: 18.5/20

We had a tie for third place, so I will start with what was probably the greatest value of the night. Cam's 2000 Ghiaie della Furba (Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah), at C$41, was half the price of the next cheapest wine, yet was probably the softest, silkiest, and best balanced of the night, a combination of great winemaking and optimal bottle age coming together perfectly. Less complex than the others, and all ready peaking, but at this price? Score: 18.5/20 (one of my Top Cellar Picks)

Pramod's 2000 Flaccianello was deceptively good, and I wonder if another few hours in the decanter would have put it in first place instead of third. Classic Sangiovese tobacco notes mingled with sour cherries and spearmint, liquorice and black pepper, some vegetal notes. Tangy and spicy with an incredibly long finish, I am so glad I have a cellar full of this stuff. Score: 18/20

Lloyd brought a legendeary wine from a less than than legendary vintage, the 2002 Masseto. Fashioned from 100% Merlot, it delivered a nose of violets, ripe strawberry compote, and some smokey vanilla. Crisp and full-bodied, but not overbearing, with velvety tannins and a flavourful, long finish. I expected from one of the worlds most expensive merlot bottlings to be kinder, gentler...but the score kept creeping up over the evening. Score: 18/20

My 2000 Serpico, made from the Aglianico grape, was easy to spot - clearly not Cabernet or Sangiovese, but my "nekulturny" friends did not like this so you can take my notes with a grain of salt. To be fair the nose was simple - flinty prunes and some floral notes - but luxurious, tangy tannins and a very long finish made this a joy for me. Maybe I won't share my Aglianico any more...Score 18/20

Many thanks to Pramod and Sofia, perfectly setting up these wines with a spread fit for kings (including a rather tasty, but ominously named fatty meat called "lardo"), and to the gang for really digging deep into the cellar for a creative flight of wine.

Cheers!

Obscure Wine Regions: Assisi

2009-05-09T22:05:00.004-04:00

The appellation of Assisi is obscure - no entry in the Oxford Companion to Wine, a mere village name in another book, even my Vino Italiano book simply mentions DOC rules - Sangiovese 50-70%, Merlot 10-30%, other varietals up to 40% max. But it resides in the Umbrian wine region, so the grape varietals and winemaking styles are familiar...

Tonight's 2006 Sportoletti Assisi Rosso was undeniably Tuscan-sangiovese in style, perhaps from a hot vintage. Very tobacco and dark blackberry on the nose, a bit hot and jammy, some cedar, liquorice, hints of violet and vanilla. Very dry, smooth and well balanced on the palate - delicious, but less structured (low acid, lots of fruit) than I hope for in a sangiovese.
cork. 14.5% alcohol
Score: 16/20
Price: C$21.40 (SAQ)

2005 1er Cru Burgundies from Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure

2009-05-06T21:37:00.001-04:00

The 2005 vintage for red Burgundy has been widely praised in the wine media, a rare vintage which seemed to get the nod from both the traditionalists and the modernists. I have also enjoyed a number of these wines, but with many of these beauties long gone I was not expecting an email from my friend, Mark, offering me a chance to partake in a special '05 Burgundy order.

Not a house that I had heard of before, but the importer taunted us with some glowing reviews (but of course!) of these two bottles:

The 2005 Rebourgeon-Mure Volnay 1er Cru "Santenots" sported a dry, dusty nose of succulent raspberries and black earth. Soft and silky on the palate, a bit earthier than the Beaune below - tart, light, with crisp fruit and a pleasing, lingering minerality.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$58 (private import)

The 2005 Rebourgeon-Mure Beaune 1er Cru "Les Vignes Franches" was all cola, meat and truffles, some wet stones and hints of old shoe leather...very intriguing. Soft and silky, tangy and flavourful on the palate, very well balanced with juicy berries. Darker, softer, than the Volnay, very pleasing.
cork. 13% alcohol
Score: 16.5/20
Price: C$49.15 (private import)

These were no-fault wines - it would be really easy to serve these and win kudos - but perhaps lacking the depth and complexity of the greats. Stylistically I preferred the more tightly wound Volnay, but the fleshier Beaune was equally pleasing - that was simply a style preference.

Conclusion? Even some of the '05 holdbacks are worthy additions to the cellar - buy em when you see em

Super Tuscans in the Garden of Eden

2009-05-03T22:01:00.007-04:00

My buddy Eden loves to make a big to do of my visits to Toronto, this time inviting a bunch of friends over for steaks and a tasting hosted by yours truly. Personally, I love to mess with the gang and put together an eclectic flight of wines, but tonight I decided to see what 20-50 bucks could get you in Tuscany, and (blinded) I was curious if we could identify any "hidden gems".

I was curious to see how the 2005 Nipozzana Reserva (Chianti Ruffina) would show in this flight, being the lowest priced of the bunch. A bit jammy on the nose, with tobacco, and slatey black cherry, a minerally finish but a touch fruity vs. prior vintages - a great value (C$22), but it didn't blow the competition away. Score: 17/20

There was no doubt in my mind that the 2006 Lucente (IGT) stood out from the pack - notes of mint, ginger ale, anise and flint...incredibly smooth and polished on the palate, with fresh cherries and a deceptively long finish (C$40). Score: 18/20

The 2004 Terrabianca Piano del Cipresso (IGT) pruney, cheddar cheesey, meaty sausage, rather rustic - flavourful, modest finish, woodsy tannins - opened nicely (C$31). Score: 17/20

The 2002 Piastraia was a gorgeous wine...wet stones and black cherries, leather and tobacco, a most gorgeous mouthfeel, with fine, silky tannins...balanced, with a pleasing, lingering finish (C$40). Score: 17.5/20

The 2005 Sassoalloro continued the '05 jamminess seen above - ripe and jammy on the nose, notes of flowers, anise...a silky, but modest finish, very well balanced (C$35). Score: 16.5/20

But it wasn't all Italian, as Mike brought a treasure from his own cellar, a well-aged 1996 Caymus. A beautiful nose of figs and black earth, piney and cedary leather, sulphur, showing hints of violets, plums and blackberries as it opened up. Pruney, light and peppery, tangy and lighter-bodied. Stylistically my ideal claret, and it has aged very well, but just a touch awkward despite substantial time in the decanter - excellent, but just shy of outstanding.
Score: 17.5/20

Overall, buyers should note that two 2005 Tuscans that have been favourites of mine produced modest disappointments, and will certainly guide my future Tuscan wine buying...

Thanks to Eden and his wife for the terrific spread to complement this tasting - the steaks and all the fixin's were delicious. I look forward to another meeting of my Toronto tasting group!

Obscure Wine Regions: Vinsobres

2009-04-30T23:21:00.003-04:00

You know it is an "Obscure Wine Region" when information is sparse. Looking for details on the appellation of Vinsobres in the Côtes du Rhône I checked my trusty "The Oxford Companion to Wine" and found one short paragraph, while my other wine book simply mentions it in a list of Côtes du Rhône Cru villages. Not surprising, as the village of Vinsobres was first rewarded appellation status in 2005 and annual production is a small 26,000 hectolitres. Vinsobres is like most of the villages in the Côtes du Rhône, with the wines (only reds from this appellation) made from Grenache (min. 50%) and Syrah and/or Mourvedre 25%, with other varieties (mainly Carignan and Cinsault) allowed up to 25% maximum.

This village is amongst the most northerly villages in the Côtes du Rhône, and this seems to come through in tonight's wine, the 2005 Jerome Quiot Vinsobres rouge. Fashioned from Grenache and Shiraz, it was a stark, brooding wine - lighter-bodied but with dark, meaty/leathery notes, I was thinking southwest France - maybe a good dose of Carignan (I did not read up on Vinsobres before I drank the wine) - but it also reminded me of some Northern Rhône offerings. A pleasing finish, nice balance, no jam here. Very enjoyable but not as complex as the Rhône wines from top appellations. No surprise I liked this so, as the Quiot family also owns the Vieux Lazaret that I have been raving about (1,2,3). No scoring, just drinking tonight, but probably 16.5-17 points here.
cork. 14% alcohol
Price: C$20 (SAQ)

La Colombe: Sauternes and Foie Gras

2009-04-26T20:56:00.007-04:00

My last trip to La Colombe was stunning - fantastic food and a trio of stunning wines. But for tonight's meal my good friend Andreas put a bit more thought into the wine pairings, reviewing the menu before we went and bringing wines he thought would work well.

Like Sauternes and Foie Gras? Apparently a miracle pairing, but I rarely take part in either - I HAVE been missing out! The 2001 Château Bastor-Lamontagne was a very nice Sauternes - peaches and cream, tangy grapefruit, and a hint of sweet spice on the nose. Soft with tangy peaches on the palate, minerally and green - a magical pairing with a "foie gras poêlé" Score: 17/20

For my next course I ordered the snails in a mild blue cheese sauce, which I paired with a Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc - the dish and the wine were independently delicious, but these did not work together very well (any thoughts on what to pair with this one?).

My contribution for the evening was a 2002 Yalumba "Hand Picked" Shiraz+Viognier, which I attempted to pair with a large duck breast with a berry sauce on top. With a nose of plummy lavender, vanilla, peppery blackberries, smokey leather and slate it seemed a good match, and it was, but it was not as balanced as I had hoped - a touch more awkward on the palate than I recall from one year ago..., Score: 17.5/20

Andreas contributed a main course wine as well, the 2003 Morgante Don Antonio Nero d'Avola, which was a logical choice for the gamey comfort food featured at La Colombe. Notes of basil, tobacco and cedary plums on the nose, and plum, plum, plummy on the palate. Light and grainy in texture, but a touch hot and slightly unbalanced. You are unlikely to find a finer, more elegant, example of Nero ... another great match, for venison. Score: 17/20

With dessert wine for an appetizer, what do we do for dessert? Icewine! A hometown wine that I picked up last summer, the 2004 Taillefer Lafon Icewine delivered earthy, appley "Werther's" candy on the nose and spicy, tangy caramel apples on the palate. Very flavourful, some cripsness but bit cloying, Score: 16.5/20

I highly recommend, once again, a visit to La Colombe - a top notch BYO Restaurant in Montreal. And if you haven't tried Sauternes and Foie Gras, you just don't know what you are missing...